Armor/AFV: Techniques
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How do you paint 1/35 Weapons?
hliu24
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Posted: Friday, June 07, 2013 - 01:09 PM UTC

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hey, peter

From what I am understanding from your post, when you paint on the resin, primer is essential, right?

Thx

Jay



I use primer with resin although some people don't with resin being so small at 1/35th scale. Some modelers just paint straight on the resin. The reason I prime resin, especially in larger scales, is that even after washing the resin, the resin is slick and smooth enough that paint may not stick to it when dried and touched. I've experienced that myself for unprimed resin after painting...the paint flaked off in my fingers. But this didn't happen when I primed the resin first and then painted. As such, spraying on primer first acts as a bonding agent to the resin and allows handbrushing of paint.



Thank you, Peter

Another one, Is there a way you can avoid over spaying primer on the 1/35 weapons? Sorry, I don't want to make you feel you are babysitting me
but I try to get more information before I get started it, hope you are ok with it.

Jay
18Bravo
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Posted: Friday, June 07, 2013 - 01:11 PM UTC
I use black primer (from the can) when necessary. No need for a follow up color.
hliu24
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Posted: Friday, June 07, 2013 - 01:23 PM UTC

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I use black primer (from the can) when necessary. No need for a follow up color.



Thank you, Rob, just like how this guy did it?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlQVysICaxE

Jay

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Posted: Saturday, June 08, 2013 - 07:16 AM UTC


I'm a big fan of anyone who pays attention to his weapon details...
18Bravo
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Posted: Saturday, June 08, 2013 - 07:42 AM UTC

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I use black primer (from the can) when necessary. No need for a follow up color.



Thank you, Rob, just like how this guy did it?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlQVysICaxE

Jay




Mine is just automotive primer, but it saves a layer of paint by using black.
As for my photo of the Afghans, yeah there is tape wound around the folding stock, sort of like that fake chrome stuff bikers used to wrap around their brake cables. But what I'm talking about are two other things they like to do. The first is to Scotch-Brite the hell out of the barrel until it's silver. The guy on the left with the blue leather on his weapon is a mild example, but if you look closely you'll see that he's been slowly burring it to a nice shine. There's something else common to both AK's, look closely and you'll see.
Trisaw
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Posted: Saturday, June 08, 2013 - 11:31 AM UTC
Jay,

Hard to say how not to spray too much primer. That all depends on the weather conditions...windy, etc. Sometimes when I spray, it is windy so I spray in several sessions to cover the part. If you really want to avoid overspray, then an airbrush is the best choice as an airbrush offers a lot more control than a spray can.

Rob, great idea on spraying black primer. I too should try that to save a layer of paint. But doesn't Automotive primer stink for a long period of time as it dries out?

TacticalSquirrel
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Posted: Saturday, June 08, 2013 - 01:41 PM UTC
Are you talking about whatever is under the FSBs attached to the barrels? Most common thing I saw was a 7.62 NATO round in a link clipped to the barrel of their AKs, another thing they are bringing over to their new M16s and SAWs.
TacticalSquirrel
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Posted: Sunday, June 09, 2013 - 04:16 AM UTC
This thread is now about guns. If there's anything in particular you want to see, let me know and I'll see if I have anything.

These were all taken during my 2010 deployment in Afghanistan.

My weapons after cleaning post mission.






My SAW with a shot I took for the company that donated enough weapons lube to my platoon I've still got some left over!


Hero shot in front of a Soviet T62 memorial at the old Soviet tank repair depot in Charikar.






Previous owner no longer needed these.




Rob, look familiar? SAW re-zeroe range




Another hero shot of me with my M4.


Best job for the terp, carry one of the AT-4's. Also ANA M16A2




Supawang, may she rest in pieces.


EBR and ANP PKM


My M2 pre IED, and Herb.


M14 EBR



This is my personal AR .22 upper on top with my EoTech, rail panels, and Surefire that were on my M4 overseas. It's also on a war rug from the future.



amoz02t
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Posted: Sunday, June 09, 2013 - 08:26 AM UTC
Thank you for your service and the photos!
hliu24
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Posted: Sunday, June 09, 2013 - 12:41 PM UTC
Steve

Fantastic!

Jay
18Bravo
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Posted: Monday, June 10, 2013 - 10:24 AM UTC
I have to get more of those war rugs. I don't to sell the ones I have, but GeForce the future, I know where $35 rugs are going for $900 (yes, that's two zeros) in he states.
Trisaw
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Posted: Monday, June 10, 2013 - 12:32 PM UTC
Is the M-14 and M-14 EBR really used all that often by squad soldiers, not snipers? I read some soldiers carry the M-16A4 and M-14 to reach out to 800m, something the M4A1 cannot do.

I see Masterbox and some resin figures carry the M-14, but I don't know if it's for squad-size fire support or just out of personal preference.
TacticalSquirrel
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Posted: Monday, June 10, 2013 - 01:26 PM UTC

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I have to get more of those war rugs. I don't to sell the ones I have, but GeForce the future, I know where $35 rugs are going for $900 (yes, that's two zeros) in he states.



Oh I'm with you on that. I gave the one I brought home to my dad, when I bought my house and built my man cave I wanted one. Thankfully a brother down range hooked me up with that one. They really are going for stupid money now. I'm glad I bought what I did, my living room rug was bought at the FOB Ghazni bazaar.
18Bravo
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Posted: Monday, June 10, 2013 - 01:30 PM UTC
I hope I still have my rug guy in Popolano's. He gave me GREAT deals once I told him his deals weren't so great, but it would break my heart to tell my friends that.
TacticalSquirrel
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Posted: Monday, June 10, 2013 - 01:40 PM UTC
Yeah, my rug guy in Ghazni was awesome. Not the midget. That guy was a jerk. The guys I ran into at Lightning, Zormat, Sharana, and Gardez weren't that great. The ones at BAF were not even worth looking at. It's all about the knots in the back, if you can tell a Pakistani or Chinese machine made rug from a handmade one, they know they can't rip you off as much lol.
hliu24
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Posted: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 - 01:34 PM UTC
Live Resin M2 set.

Quite a few pieces broke off from the shipping, I will check it later.

201

202

200

Jay
hliu24
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Posted: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 - 01:44 PM UTC
Mini gun, nothing wrong, the detail on this guy is breathtaking!!!!

203

204

100_3863

Jay
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Posted: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 - 08:21 PM UTC
The resin they use for casting the Live Resin weapons is very high quality, few if any flaws or bubbles ever, and the texture is a bit on the "hard" side, which I prefer because you can carve it and shape things better than the more flexible "rubbery" resin used elsewhere. But the trade-off is broken tiny parts sometimes..I really like their resin though, it is easy to work with. Just be careful cutting the parts off the casting blocks!
hliu24
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Posted: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 - 08:41 PM UTC

Quoted Text

The resin they use for casting the Live Resin weapons is very high quality, few if any flaws or bubbles ever, and the texture is a bit on the "hard" side, which I prefer because you can carve it and shape things better than the more flexible "rubbery" resin used elsewhere. But the trade-off is broken tiny parts sometimes..I really like their resin though, it is easy to work with. Just be careful cutting the parts off the casting blocks!



Gary, How do you paint your .50, looks good!

Jay
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Posted: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 - 08:57 PM UTC
On small things like weapons I don't use primers if I can help it...clogs up too many tiny details. the Live Resin gun was washed with a paint thinner ( in Europe it's R 6001) to remove any mold release or other film, and after drying I just paint with Testors' Model Master Enamel..the petroleum based enamel, not the acrylic. It seems to bond to the LR resin pretty solid.
hliu24
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Posted: Thursday, June 13, 2013 - 07:58 AM UTC

Quoted Text

On small things like weapons I don't use primers if I can help it...clogs up too many tiny details. the Live Resin gun was washed with a paint thinner ( in Europe it's R 6001) to remove any mold release or other film, and after drying I just paint with Testors' Model Master Enamel..the petroleum based enamel, not the acrylic. It seems to bond to the LR resin pretty solid.



Hand or Air? THx Gary

Jay
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Posted: Thursday, June 13, 2013 - 08:16 AM UTC
I brush paint almost everything on figures and small arms..I don't airbrush until it gets as big as a jeep.
hliu24
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Posted: Thursday, June 13, 2013 - 08:31 AM UTC
Cool Gary. THx

Jay



.50 101, I will go through it before I put all the parts together.

http://www.armystudyguide.com/content/SMCT_CTT_Tasks/Skill_Level_1/0710220001-sl1-maintain-a.shtml

Jay
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Posted: Thursday, June 13, 2013 - 09:14 AM UTC
Wow, that brings back memories...
In tank school (1st Brigade, Ft. Knox), we had to do weapons field strip and re assemble under time limit with a drill instructor over our heads. Fun times!
TacticalSquirrel
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Posted: Thursday, June 13, 2013 - 10:59 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Cool Gary. THx

Jay



.50 101, I will go through it before I put all the parts together.

http://www.armystudyguide.com/content/SMCT_CTT_Tasks/Skill_Level_1/0710220001-sl1-maintain-a.shtml

Jay



damn... that's a bit in depth. Email me and I'll send you some pictures I took at our last M2 range. In the mean time, I'm waiting on someone to make some of these.




Now that the wars are winding down, is it time to start breaking out the BFA's again?



Here's more .50 stuff.

Ever seen a man make an M2 looks small? Pretty sure he can hip fire that thing.