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When Im 64 (1936-2000)
AussieReg
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Posted: Monday, June 03, 2019 - 12:59 AM UTC

Quoted Text

D,
Every update is even more impressive. I still remember that engine stand you were rusting. it sure not only look mighty good, but realistic as well.

Joel



Funny you should mention that Joel, I actually dragged that stand out today and looked at the scale of the salt "bubbles" in the surface finish against the car and I am seriously considering using that technique on parts of the Ford build.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, June 03, 2019 - 12:38 AM UTC
D,
Every update is even more impressive. I still remember that engine stand you were rusting. it sure not only look mighty good, but realistic as well.

Joel
AussieReg
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 11:30 PM UTC

Quoted Text

one helluva update D!

Looking good!



Cheers Russ, it looks even gooder with primer on now! Yes, I am an impatient git, I just wanted to see the effect with some colour.





Next step is some random mottling with Yellow/Orange/Red highly thinned to give some variation to the rust base.

Cheers, D
RussellE
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 11:04 PM UTC
one helluva update D!

Looking good!
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 04:03 AM UTC
D,
the door panel really looks good.

As a side note, coming back from another emergency run to the hospital for my Mother in law's failing health, a chopped 3 window 32 Ford Coupe in super waxed Gloss Black passed us in the opposite direction. Now my wife isn't a car person what so ever as the Maserati 2 door that blew our doors off on the way there could have cared less. But the Coupe really caught her attention! Maybe there's hope for her yet.

Joel
AussieReg
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 03:33 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looks good Damian and I think the extra "texture" of the rough primer will actually help the realism of the final rusted out finish.



Thanks David, appreciate the feedback. I totally agree, I'm not looking for a silky smooth primer, but the way this stuff was splattering out was a nightmare. The MLT mist coat pulled it back to a nice texture for the world-weary finish I'm after.

Joel, I will give the primer a go with X-20A and see how it performs before I shelve it totally. Many thanks for the feedback and advice.

The music was good and the spiced rum was flowing so the tinkering continued.

Framework for door panels in place


Door panel installed

The bottom will be hidden by the profile of the floor structure, so no need to tidy that up.

Looking at it from various angles through the shell I'm really happy. Once it gets a shot of primer and some colour it will nicely represent the details on the bare door panels.




Rust damage and bullet holes


I'm having a lot of fun with this, artistic license and surface texture variations allow a lot of freedom to explore.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 02:33 AM UTC
D,
You've really stepped this build up to a whole new level. Every update post is loaded with details, how to's, and even what didn't work and why. Just great stuff. Just love how the detailing for the rumble seat door came out. and the start of your rust work is amazing.

As for your Mig Ammo primer issues, I used and still do use both the gray and Black primer for anything that isn't going to be shot with a lacquer based color coat. And I've been using them since they 1st came out in my Aeroscale days. For some reason shooting Neat seems to be mentioned all the time as it's the easy way out, and in MHO the wrong way for anyone to generally air brush. I thin both with Tamiya X20-A and have even thinned it with Yellow cap with no issues. For large parts I use a 5mm setup, for smaller parts I use a 3mm set up in my Grex AB's. For a flow rate I use 18 psi with the 5mm and 16 psi with the 3mm setup just because I'm in closer to the small parts. I do a few light tack coats, then a few wet coats, and that's it.

My working PSI is usually a little higher then most other guys because my two hoses are 6 ft. not the usual 3 ft., and I need a little more psi because of that. The reason for the long hoses is that my compressor is by my workbench, which is several feet away from the paint booth setup by the window.

Joel
AussieReg
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 02:17 AM UTC
Having the top and rumble seat removed, along with all of the glass, the interior will be visible from all angles, so I need to convert this:

into this:

BTW, found the above image on eBay, good source for reference material


Step 1, assemble troops


Step 2, cut, test dry fit door panels with shell and chassis



Step 3, scribble a plan of attack and confuse myself with my own hieroglyphics


Step 4, clamp LH and RH door panels together to pre-drill consistently.


Step 5, drill pilot holes for cut-outs


Step 6 and onwards, pour spiced rum, turn music up, cut out penetrations and add layers, more layers, drill more holes




Dixon66
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 02:08 AM UTC
Looks good Damian and I think the extra "texture" of the rough primer will actually help the realism of the final rusted out finish.
AussieReg
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 01:46 AM UTC
Rant out of the way, on with the show!

You can see in the following images how crappy the primer coat is, I will be giving it a good sand and go over the top with another primer if necessary. I will also be giving it a random spray of highly thinned orange and yellow and red to give the rust variation before I seal it with Dullcote.
I have also had a first draft attempt at carving out some rust holes from the areas that I thinned out from the inside. I will go over these again after the sanding.





As always, any and all comments, critiques and suggestions gratefully accepted. This is a learning exercise for me


Cheers, D
AussieReg
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Posted: Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 01:09 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Just an amazing attention to detail after detail. This just might be your finest car modeling effort to date.



Thanks Joel. This is my first time attempting such comprehensive weathering, but I have spent a lot of time on YouTube and picked up several publications on the art, so I just need to step up and put it into practice now.

Some primer shenanigans last night. The first time I have tried an AMMO by Mig product, "One Shot Primer Brown Oxide", and it fought me all the way! The label says to use unthinned, minimum 0.3 tip, 20-30psi, light coats to build up the coverage. Well my dual-action is a 0.25 tip so I played it safe and dragged out old faithful Paasche-H. I tried various pressures within the recommended range, I tried all three tip sets (#1, #3, #5), and I tried from unthinned up to about 50% MLT. I had non-stop tip clogging and spidering at every turn.
In the end I basically used the #3 tip wide open at about 25psi and just had to keep unclogging the tip, and then misted on a light coat of neat MLT to give the top layer the opportunity to even out. The finish is just barely OK, and I'm not sure that I will bother with this product again. I will try a couple of alternative Oxide primers for my rust basing and put this bottle into quarantine for the moment.
I will let Jack Nicholson sum up how I'm feeling right now


Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, May 31, 2019 - 04:07 AM UTC
D,
Just an amazing attention to detail after detail. This just might be your finest car modeling effort to date.

Keep those updates coming.

Joel
AussieReg
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Posted: Friday, May 31, 2019 - 04:01 AM UTC
More tinkering tonight while I watched the footy. First up I had to remove the centre panel of the roof, the rumble seat, and the rumble seat cover mounting points (circled). I used a cut-off wheel in the Dremel to do the carving, then a drum sander to tidy up the carnage.



Next up I had to dissect the rear part of the interior tub to retrieve the rear section of the parcel shelf to provide the part circled below.







Last task for tonight was to add some detail to the interior floor to make it interesting, then get stuck in to making a pile of plastic shavings using a round end mill to thin out the bottom corners of the guards ready to create some rust holes (see circled areas).



Cheers, D
AussieReg
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Posted: Thursday, May 30, 2019 - 02:35 PM UTC
Well I followed my own instructions above and ended up with this -


I'm very pleased with it at this stage, a little bit more tidying up and then on to the paint shop.

Cheers, D
AussieReg
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Posted: Thursday, May 30, 2019 - 11:22 AM UTC
Thanks for the feedback guys, much appreciated. Still feeling the effects, this will take a few days to pass I'm sure.
The holes were drilled out, then cleaned up with the Xacto which roughened the edges up. I will be using a larger drill to widen and clean up the holes. It is very hard to see from the reference image whether the centre detail is a raised area or just a circular mark, but I am planning to punch a thin disc and glue it on for more interest. I will also cut a small square from thin sheet and glue It on as can be seen at the top centre of the reference image. Looks to be a mounting point for the top latch. After that I will get on to drilling the various bracket mounting holes. I will use my scriber to mark the centre of the grooves running alongside the lightening holes, then either a round needle file or a round burr (if I'm feeling adventurous) in the Dremel to form them.

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, May 30, 2019 - 09:06 AM UTC
D,
You're making a great recovery from your nasty cold. I'm sure that the Rum is a major factor. I just might try some when my annual summer cold arrives.

Nicely done on the scratch building. I also wouldn't have glued the panel in place till I cleaned up the lightening holes with a round file & sandpaper. Just a little excess sanding and those holes will easily be that 1mm larger in dia. What is the center detail supposed to be? if it's a plate, why not just punch or cut one out of thin sheet and glue it in place? If not, then scribing certainly is the way to go.

Joel
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Posted: Thursday, May 30, 2019 - 03:34 AM UTC
Because I'm much better at asking dumb questions than smart ones, why did you glue the stiffener on before you cut out the holes? Then you could have used a drill instead of scribing them all out.

Gonna watch this closely as I have two more 69 Camaro Z-28s in the stash, one of them is pre painted, the other one doesn't have any chrome, clear or rubber parts... They might well be candidates to be junkers.
AussieReg
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Posted: Thursday, May 30, 2019 - 02:25 AM UTC
A three day interstate work trip with 3 flights this week has left me with a horrible cough and no voice at all (and some would argue that is a good thing!), so I'm stuck at home for a couple of days to recover.

End result is that I'm in a mood to hack things up rather than put nice finishing touches on things

"Target for tonight" just has to be a Ford.



This will be my first serious attempt at a rusted hulk with serious multi-layer chipping, so I'm going to start off with just one part to test my techniques. Part of my reference library for the 36 Ford is good close images of both sides of the rumble seat, so that's my first victim.



Time to get my angry tool kit out.


First I used the cutting wheel to remove the padded seat which was already glued in place, then I used the drum sander to clean the inside of residue and moulded details and thin out the edges a bit.


Evergreen square rod provided a raised frame.



Evergreen sheet used for the inner panel, marked out the centres for the lightening holes, and while it dried I hacked up the tub.


Pilot holes were used to centre for the larger drill bit, I think I will still go a millimetre bigger on the lightening holes, and a scriber and template used to make the centre round detail.


All this was done with Eric Clapton playing in the background and medicinal Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum on ice at hand. I must say I do feel better

Cheers, D
Hwa-Rang
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Posted: Tuesday, May 28, 2019 - 02:21 AM UTC
Option #4 will work best, I think. With the deserted car, slightly raised above the other two cars, it will make a fine focal point. If it was me, I would be Setting the rusty car in an elevated scenery with grass, auto debris and junk, this could easily be blended to a dirt road, for the mid period car, (in the right hand triangle)which again could be blended into an asphalt road, for the restored car(Left hand triangle). A strip of the dirt road going all the way around the raised scenery, to make up the side of the asphalt road.
RussellE
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Posted: Friday, May 24, 2019 - 10:07 PM UTC
it would seem I'm getting notifications again D

Anyway you chose to build them, it sounds like it's going to be an awesome result
AussieReg
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Posted: Friday, May 24, 2019 - 12:34 PM UTC

Quoted Text

D I do like option 4 however I prefer option 3 and think it would still give room for a mini diorama.


Luciano, 3 is my second preference right now. The rusted shell will need a lot more space as there will be panels and junk strewn around it.

As I progress with the builds I will play around with layouts and fine tune it.

Cheers, D
AussieReg
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Posted: Friday, May 24, 2019 - 12:23 PM UTC

Quoted Text

D,
I concur that Option #4 seems like the best of the lot especially with the rusty shell will be a mini diorama.

Joel



Noted Joel, thanks for looking in!

Cheers, D
AussieReg
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Posted: Friday, May 24, 2019 - 12:19 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Haven't received any email notifications of replies on this build and several others of late-could there be an issue with the site?


Not sure what might be going on there Russ, Im definitely getting notifications from all of my subscribed threads. Is it working for you on other sites?


Quoted Text

Can I throw my two cents in for the layout of the diorama?


Please do 😎


Quoted Text

Maybe have the original and the rod parked in-line on a road and the rusted out corpse parked off to the side... Giving the impression the road worthy cars have pulled over to inspect the wreck? Not sure if figures are available in this scale to suit, but it could tell a bit of "story" if you will...


That would make a great diorama display, and I am planning to do exactly that with part of my Tri-5 series builds, possibly the 57 Nomad.
My concept here is to show 3 stages in the life of the same car, so in effect it will be 3 separate small dioramas on one base.

Many thanks for checking in. Cheers, D
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Posted: Friday, May 24, 2019 - 09:47 AM UTC
D I do like option 4 however I prefer option 3 and think it would still give room for a mini diorama.
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, May 24, 2019 - 09:25 AM UTC
D,
I concur that Option #4 seems like the best of the lot especially with the rusty shell will be a mini diorama.

Joel