Time to bring this thread up to speed with the start of build #3, the restored rod.
Starting shot for the build, taken at the start of the Blue Oval Group Build.
I hit the kit and started on the cleanup and test fitting of the major parts to see what depth of trouble I've got myself into, and I wasn't wrong. I'm about neck deep
First up was the fender/floor section. Check out those attachment points! The sprue wasn't letting this part escape easily.
Next up was the body parts. The fit of the top and bottom halves here is a challenge for anybody building this kit.
The LHS doesn't look too bad. The small section between the vertical join and the door line will need a little bit of sanding to bring it in to line.
The upper body is nicely recessed in relation to the lower body.
The RHS is another story altogether. It looks like the moulds weren't lined up when they cast this one! The upper body contour actually sits OUTSIDE the lower body along the length all the way back to the mould line beyond the high point of the rear wheel arch. This is going to be a whole bunch of fun to fix
I will need to remove almost 1mm of material to whip this into shape, might be Dremel o'clock
In between extreme panel-work sessions I'm going to start putting these guys together and have a go at proper figure painting for the first time. If I do a good enough job, a few figures will add a lot to the display.
About an hour of carefully grinding and carving and sanding and I think I've got it to a point where I can fit the top and blend the joins. The main trouble spot (circled) lines up nicely now and I have managed to keep the contour to match the RHS.
I need to get this right, I've got Henry himself looking over my shoulder !
Well Henry is not too happy with my tailoring skills (sprue-goo), and definitely angry that the other two turned up back at work legless after a long lunch, but he is happy with the progress on the panel work. The two halves of the main body are together now, and as Gabriel said, a bit more sanding and filling will pull it into shape nicely.
First application of sprue goo to the body joins, this will be left for a day or so to cure and then a second and possible third application as required. I prefer to use the sprue goo for this type of fix as it is TET based and will actually bond and strengthen the join as well as filling.
Benefit of close digital photos, I didn't see that little round recess under the join line in the second image until now! I will fill that with the next round of goo.
Another very handy use for the goo is to fill the nasty little ejector pin holes. A small drop off the thin brush into the hole will self-level and fill the hole, then I use the AK Fibre Pen to spot sand and tidy them up.