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Ebbro 1/20 scale Brabham BT18 F2
RussellE
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Posted: Monday, March 11, 2019 - 11:01 PM UTC
Sorry to hear about the trouble with your hands Joel!

Hopefully the gloves are the answer!

I've seen first hand the debilitating effects you've described in my father, who, having worked in the steel industry for 55 years has awful hands that crack open in the cold weather giving him unbearable pain...
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, March 12, 2019 - 12:47 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looking forward to the updates Joel. Sorry to hear about your problems as well, definitely doesn't sound enjoyable at all. I recall my father after decades of mechanical repairs and engineering how his hands had severely cracked due to the dehydrating effects of the chemicals and aggressive hand cleaners. I really hope that the gloves are the answer for you to continue pain-free in this hobby.

Cheers, D



D,
Thanks for being in my corner, it's greatly appreciated.

So far the gloves are working fantastically. The cracks have gotten smaller and the big, hurting ones on my left thumb, and the next two fingers (I'm left handed, so what is new) have scabbed up. Phase 2 is to continue to cream my hands which I've never done very often to help put back some of the moisture I've lost both from the dryness of winter, and the effects of old age.

The gloves do take some getting use to. I can paint and work with larger pieces, but I cant' handle the very small and fragile parts, so I'm trying to just keep a glove on the right hand, do the messy cleaning with it, and have my left hand free for parts work. The key is not use my left hand to work with solvents, and that will take some getting use to. When I have to, then I need to wear a glove on both hands.

Joel
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Posted: Tuesday, March 12, 2019 - 12:53 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I feel your pain Joel. I have the same problems in the winter time. By the sound of it, not as bad as you though.

Gloves are a must, when handling chemicals

Looking forward to seeing the images.



Jasper,
Thanks for the support my friend. I also feel for you and your pain. Like I said in my reply to D, the gloves are a God send, but expensive. I've at one time have tried Vinyl, Latex, and now Nitrile, with the Nitrile being the most expensive by far, but also the best for modeling. They seem to conform to my hands better, and are much tougher to withstand rough handling of things and chemicals.

I did notice yesterday that I can remove the gloves without them tearing like the other two types do. I'm thinking that for those times with I didn't get any solvents or paint on them, I can re-use those gloves. Ok, so I'm cheap, but that's part of retirement and living on a budget

Joel
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Posted: Tuesday, March 12, 2019 - 12:57 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Joel

I'm sorry to read about the trouble you're having with your hands. I really sympathise, because the tip of one of my thumbs splits every winter and hurts like nobody's business - so having splits all over must be terrible!

I'm glad you've at least a partial answer and can get back to work on this fantastic build!

All the best

Rowan



Rowan,

Thanks buddy for your most kind words. Yesterday was a great day as I actually got some much needed work done.

I do feel for you as well, as you need your fingers to play your guitar. and strumming on those metal strings must amplify that pain 10 fold.

Joel
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Posted: Tuesday, March 12, 2019 - 12:59 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Sorry to hear about the trouble with your hands Joel!

Hopefully the gloves are the answer!

I've seen first hand the debilitating effects you've described in my father, who, having worked in the steel industry for 55 years has awful hands that crack open in the cold weather giving him unbearable pain...



Russell,
Thanks my friend for your support, it's greatly appreciated. And I can really feel for your father and all those blue collar workers who live with this. How they do it is beyond me.

Joel
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Posted: Wednesday, March 13, 2019 - 03:15 AM UTC
As I recently posted, the last week has been more about not modeling, then modeling due to horrendous splitting and cracking issues on my finger tips. Of course that only is a concerning issue on my left hand as I'm left handed. Wearing Nitrile glove(s) while handling solvents and even sanding has really helped. So I've been able to finally finish up the front clip.



My last update had just the top half of the front suspension in place, as well as the 3 master cylinders. But I still haven't figured out just how the brake and clutch lines actually ran, so nothing done on that front as yet.

Ebbro has designed the shocks as three part assembly, top half, seperate spring, and bottom half. the plastic springs are just amazing. Every other shock I've ever seen in the 1/25-1/20 injected molded category are one piece molding that look ok, but not that great.



These once painted look simply outstanding. To me this is taking molded in kit detailing to the next step.



All the steel A Arms, control rods, and steering linkages were primed with Tamiya X-1 Gloss Black, and then air brushed Mig Ammo Polished Steel as I didn't want the look of chrome, which they're certainly not in real life.The Brake discs assemblies were also painted with steel for the rotors, then the caliburs were painted a darker metal cast color that's actually Mr. Color Creos Chrome Silver, which doesn't look anything like Chrome Silver that I'm used to.

All the various parts did fit exactly as shown in the instructions, but the smaller adjustment rods for the sway bar were extremely fiddly to attach. As for the shocks, well, I decided not to glue the top and bottom parts together, but rather let the shock float once attached so the verical alignment doesn't get screw up. The end result looks quite convincing.





Back then the radiators were both still up front and completely vertical. Made with a Brass frame, and a core. The kit radiator is just that. I mixed my own shade of Brass from Mig paints, then air brushed it on in several light coats. The grill was just left as the molded mat black that I dry brushes lightly with Tamiya XF-53 Gray. Now comes the fun part, the tank directly behind the radiator that actually attaches to it.

I'm familar with Oil Dry Sump systems, but just in case some of you aren't, here's a quick explaination. Race engines back in early days through for this build in the mid 1960s used oil at an alarming rate plus leaked almost as much. Thus there was a need to either add more oil during a race on both sides of the big pond. The 1st concept was the englarged pan that held several more Qts of oil, but that wasn't always enough. So they came up with a system using a separate oil tank that feed oil to the engine block. The issue still remained of the oil temps, so they added a oil radiator to cool the oil. That radiator was commonly intergrated in the bottom of the water ratiator back then. So Brabham built a dry sump tank with a tappered front to channel the moving air around the sump tank rather then blocking the flow out of the water radiator causing heating issues. And that's the aluminum tank you see right behind the radiator.

The fun part is that Ebbro has molded all the water hoses and fittings as well as the oil hoses and fittings plus the two lower mounting brackets. Talk about fiddly parts. I'm sure that in 1:1 scale, and a few mechanics mounting the tank was pretty easy. But not so in scale. Took quite a while and I did it in stages. The really neat thing is that the hoses that go back to the engine do go right through the bulkhead, so the cockpit pipes should be a most convincing fit.







And witht the completion of the cooling and oiling system, it's time to head to the other end of the car. Or I just might decide to paint and decal the body shell parts as a break.

Anyway, here's a few pictures of the overall car as it now stands.









And thanks for stopping by and making it to the end of this rather long winded update.

Joel




Merlin
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Posted: Wednesday, March 13, 2019 - 04:46 AM UTC
Hi Joel

Great work! It's looking fantastic!

My Ebbro Lotus 49B arrived today, so I've got a chance to see how good their kits are for myself. Sadly, the Lotus doesn't have the individual springs on the suspension like your Brabham, but it's still a lovely kit.

All the best

Rowan
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Posted: Wednesday, March 13, 2019 - 04:57 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Joel

Great work! It's looking fantastic!

My Ebbro Lotus 49B arrived today, so I've got a chance to see how good their kits are for myself. Sadly, the Lotus doesn't have the individual springs on the suspension like your Brabham, but it's still a lovely kit.

All the best

Rowan

Row


Rowan,
Thanks for the thumbs up. It's greatly appreciated.

None of the other Ebbro kits I have including the Lotus 72E
that I built has the separate springs. This is an all time 1st for me. But it can only mean that Ebbro has raised the bar, and their future kits will have them.

I'm sure that you'll build your Lotus 49 before I build any of mine as my Build List just keeps on growing.

Joel
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Posted: Wednesday, March 13, 2019 - 06:58 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I'm sure that you'll build your Lotus 49 before I build any of mine as my Build List just keeps on growing.

Joel



Hi Joel

I don't know about that - I'm a notoriously slow builder, and I'm juggling more projects at once now than I can remember! - but I must admit it's seriously tempting to make the Lotus my next car build.

It was going to be the little Honda from Christmas, and then the Miura took my fancy, but the this Ebbro kit looks superb. And it is my birthday present - which is a pretty good excuse for changing my mind!

All the best

Rowan
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Posted: Wednesday, March 13, 2019 - 07:44 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I'm sure that you'll build your Lotus 49 before I build any of mine as my Build List just keeps on growing.

Joel



Hi Joel

I don't know about that - I'm a notoriously slow builder, and I'm juggling more projects at once now than I can remember! - but I must admit it's seriously tempting to make the Lotus my next car build.

It was going to be the little Honda from Christmas, and then the Miura took my fancy, but the this Ebbro kit looks superb. And it is my birthday present - which is a pretty good excuse for changing my mind!

All the best

Rowan



Rowan,
I'm a master at changing my mind. I swap build lists with my brother all the time, and they change by the next day.

Go for the Lotus. Jim Clark will be watching over your build for sure.

Joel
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Posted: Wednesday, March 13, 2019 - 07:57 AM UTC
Joel - Brabham looks great ! PM sent a few days back - check your inbox .
Cheers - Richard
Merlin
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Posted: Wednesday, March 13, 2019 - 09:14 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Go for the Lotus. Jim Clark will be watching over your build for sure.

Joel



Hi Joel

Well, I've just shot the photos for my review... and, following that - even if you hadn't written what you did - I don't think I could have resisted making the Lotus my next car build!

I'll pick holes in a couple of places but, overall, my reaction is just "Wow!!". I totally get why these Ebbro kits have built up such an enviable reputation - it reminds me of my first look at a Wingnut Wings kit.

I'm totally itching to build it, if only so that I can post a reply to that dreadful customer review I highlighted earlier.

All the best

Rowan
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Posted: Wednesday, March 13, 2019 - 10:57 AM UTC
Great build, Joel.

Yes, you're right: I haven't seen this kind of shocks break-up yet; I know some model builders doing it thru scratch.

... and you made your own bronze! That is a first for you, I guess

Other than that - it looks superb!

Gabriel
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Posted: Wednesday, March 13, 2019 - 01:40 PM UTC
Great progress Joel, the detail and engineering on this kit is taking the build to a new level. To go to the trouble to produce a plastic spring/shocker set-up that nicely shows that Ebbro are indeed very serious about what they put out into the market.

Looking forward to more progress.

Cheers, D
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Posted: Thursday, March 14, 2019 - 01:39 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Great build, Joel.

Yes, you're right: I haven't seen this kind of shocks break-up yet; I know some model builders doing it thru scratch.

... and you made your own bronze! That is a first for you, I guess

Other than that - it looks superb!

Gabriel



Gabriel
Just knew that you'd be checking out my update sooner then later. Really thrilled you like what I've accomplished so far.

You really do know me when it comes to paint. If my usual paint resources: Sprue Brothers or Scalehobbyist.com had in stock Brass in either Mig Ammo or Mr. Color Creos paint, I'd have gone that way for sure.

For What I thought was going to be a quick, relaxing build, has sure surprised me with the detail that Ebbro has included. It's truly 1st class, and well worth the $60 I paid for it plus shipping. I'm loving every build session I've had to date.

Joel
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Posted: Thursday, March 14, 2019 - 01:44 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Great progress Joel, the detail and engineering on this kit is taking the build to a new level. To go to the trouble to produce a plastic spring/shocker set-up that nicely shows that Ebbro are indeed very serious about what they put out into the market.

Looking forward to more progress.

Cheers, D




D,
Thanks for stopping by and checking out my update, it's always much appreciated.

I didn't even think it was possible to mold a complete coil spring, but they've done it, so who really knows just how far todays kit manufactures can take scale & detail to? I'm guessing way more then we're use to seeing, but the price for such kits will be staggering for sure.

Joel
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Posted: Thursday, March 14, 2019 - 09:09 PM UTC
Looks fabulous Joel. Very inspiring, Ebro F1 kit's now on my wishlist
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Posted: Thursday, March 14, 2019 - 10:30 PM UTC
Super impressive job on the front suspension and cooling Joel! You can the see the Tamiya effect in these cars with the detail, even better since it's 1/20 scale.
Read about your hands, hope they got better. I think gloves are the answer when painting or prepping. I only take them off when assembling, for as you say, the small fiddly pieces.

cheers
Michael
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Posted: Friday, March 15, 2019 - 12:20 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I didn't even think it was possible to mold a complete coil spring, but they've done it,



I honestly thought it would be easier and cheaper to source or produce the same spring in steel, not sure why they would go to the trouble of moulding it in styrene.

Cheers, D
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Posted: Friday, March 15, 2019 - 04:09 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looks fabulous Joel. Very inspiring, Ebro F1 kit's now on my wishlist




Jasper,
Thanks for most positive comment. It's always greatly appreciated. You can't miss with an Ebbro kit, and they make utility trucks, cars, et., not just race cars.

Joel
Removed by original poster on 03/15/19 - 16:10:06 (GMT).
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, March 15, 2019 - 04:14 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Super impressive job on the front suspension and cooling Joel! You can the see the Tamiya effect in these cars with the detail, even better since it's 1/20 scale.
Read about your hands, hope they got better. I think gloves are the answer when painting or prepping. I only take them off when assembling, for as you say, the small fiddly pieces.

cheers
Michael



Michael,

All the credit goes to the Ebbro engineers for the design and execution of the suspension and front end. Everything fits like a glove. My only issue is that everything that is steel, or a shiny metal, they chrome it. So I've been going through Easy Off Oven Cleaner like crazy.

Ebbro has lived up to the Tamiya heritage for sure, and in some respects has raised the bar with their newer kits, as Tamiya hasn't released a new 1/20 scale race car in some time. It's pretty well understood that responsibility is now Ebbro's.

Thanks for asking about my hands. They're much better as I'm wearing the gloves for everything except assembly, and using a medicated cream at night.

Joel
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Posted: Friday, March 15, 2019 - 04:18 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I didn't even think it was possible to mold a complete coil spring, but they've done it,



I honestly thought it would be easier and cheaper to source or produce the same spring in steel, not sure why they would go to the trouble of moulding it in styrene.

Cheers, D



D,
I would have thought so, but I'm guessing that the computerized cutting of the molds is so advanced these days and as is the programs for the molds, that the cost is no more then any other part vs going to an outside vendor to make them out of metal. Oh, and by the way, they do have some flex and do bounce

Joel
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Posted: Monday, March 18, 2019 - 01:47 PM UTC
Joel,

I have been following your build, great work. I may have missed in this thread, but what are you using for British Racing Green? I'm planning on doing my Revell XK SS, if I can find the right green. The continuation cars have a duller green then the restored cars. Most of the images of originals are in black and white. I know the auto paints from the '50s tend to be solid. To my eye the color you are using looks about right.

Thanks
Russ
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Posted: Tuesday, March 19, 2019 - 01:20 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Joel,

I have been following your build, great work. I may have missed in this thread, but what are you using for British Racing Green? I'm planning on doing my Revell XK SS, if I can find the right green. The continuation cars have a duller green then the restored cars. Most of the images of originals are in black and white. I know the auto paints from the '50s tend to be solid. To my eye the color you are using looks about right.

Thanks
Russ



Russ,
For all my road racing colors I use primarily Gravity paints from Spain (fantastic service), not Matte in Florida (horrendous service). The color of choice is their Lotus Green # GC-113.

Almost all of the reference pictures I have of the actual car are in Black & White. The color pictures are all restored cars, hence the issue of the correct shade of BRG. To further complicate the issue, back in the 50's & 60'S, the racing industry in England was mostly of the cottage variety, so shops like Brabham just bought paint locally. The color varied by patch as the paint was literally mixed by hand to whatever formula that was written down, and the pigments varied to some degree as well.

When I looked at all the various shades of Ferrari Red that Gravity has, it's clear that the paints are matched to a specific car, and the classic Italian Racing Red varied by batch as well.

So if you're modeling a restored Jaguar, then just correct the shade by testing over the primer that you'll be using, or use a darker or lighter primer, which is the way I'd go. Personally, I'm not that much concerned with getting it to the nth degree of closeness.

Joel