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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Desert Tracks
long_tom
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Posted: Wednesday, October 17, 2018 - 03:34 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

But going back to the original question, would metal tracks be polished all shiny clean, with no rust spots, by going over desert sands?



does this answer your question?



Seems to, yes. Both track tops and bottoms I assume.
Scarred
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Posted: Wednesday, October 17, 2018 - 05:30 PM UTC
There will always be low spots on the tracks from the design and manufacturing and they'll have nicks and dings, damage from running over rocks and the area between the links that sand isn't going to polish. So there will be some spots of rust, dirt and matte non-polished metal.

They'll look kinda like this:
https://www.colourbox.com/image/tracks-of-the-israeli-magach-tank-in-the-desert-closeup-image-3327832

You can see they are kind of polished around the rubber track pads and connectors but not mirror bright and the low spots are still dusty, some rust and matte.
long_tom
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Posted: Wednesday, October 17, 2018 - 11:20 PM UTC

Quoted Text

There will always be low spots on the tracks from the design and manufacturing and they'll have nicks and dings, damage from running over rocks and the area between the links that sand isn't going to polish. So there will be some spots of rust, dirt and matte non-polished metal.

They'll look kinda like this:
https://www.colourbox.com/image/tracks-of-the-israeli-magach-tank-in-the-desert-closeup-image-3327832

You can see they are kind of polished around the rubber track pads and connectors but not mirror bright and the low spots are still dusty, some rust and matte.


Thanks. I figured there would be some low spots, but from a distance...
Scarred
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Posted: Thursday, October 18, 2018 - 12:57 AM UTC
Yeah and when you scale it down to 1/35 a lot of the small stuff will disappear. Here is what I think is a good example of burnished tracks with light rust and dust:

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=features&file=view&artid=7133
TopSmith
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Posted: Wednesday, October 31, 2018 - 12:32 AM UTC
I would do a gunmetal base color. Then a thinned steal over that and then drybrush with steal or an artist's silver pencil. Using silver on tracks on a model often has a startling look. I was on M48's, M60A1's and M1A1's. I have been around a lot of other tracked vehicles and a polished steal color in a few areas would be as far as I went.

Different areas of a desert have different soils. When in Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and Iraq the sand I encountered was not Talc like and didn't form dust clouds. It was more sand or mud and not dusty.
HeavyArty
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Posted: Wednesday, October 31, 2018 - 03:11 AM UTC

Quoted Text

But going back to the original question, would metal tracks be polished all shiny clean, with no rust spots, by going over desert sands?



Short answer, YES.
Removed by original poster on 10/31/18 - 22:03:07 (GMT).
long_tom
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Posted: Wednesday, October 31, 2018 - 10:04 AM UTC
Tamiya makes a light gunmetal and a darker gunmetal color. Which is preferable?
HeavyArty
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Posted: Wednesday, October 31, 2018 - 10:09 AM UTC
I use Testors Model Master aluminum.
mogdude
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Posted: Wednesday, October 31, 2018 - 11:21 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I use Testors Model Master aluminum.



enamel or acrylic ?
HeavyArty
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Posted: Thursday, November 01, 2018 - 12:31 AM UTC
I only use enamels.
sgtreef
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Posted: Thursday, November 01, 2018 - 03:18 AM UTC
There is a powder made in Germany has to the best for real shine, says chrome but makes a great finish for shiny metal tracks , better then graphite, name escapes me at the moment.
Hard to find in the states I think Mich Toy Solider might have it.

Scarred
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Posted: Thursday, November 01, 2018 - 03:44 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I only use enamels.



I am beginning to miss enamels.
long_tom
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Posted: Thursday, November 01, 2018 - 01:05 PM UTC
Someone mentioned art pencils. Anybody tried them?
JPTRR
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RAILROAD MODELING
#051
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Posted: Thursday, November 01, 2018 - 01:59 PM UTC

Quoted Text

But it takes time for any rust to come back while Mr. Tracked Vehicle stays out in the desert, I trust.



Not necessarily. I recall in the book Rommel's Army in Africa by Dal Mcguirk, an account that while operating near the coast, the sand would scour paint off the steel, and the steel would quickly develop o fine powdery bright orange rust that could be brushed off easily. Left along, it would slowly darken and eventually begin to take hold on the metal (probably after weeks).
brekinapez
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Posted: Thursday, November 01, 2018 - 02:09 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Someone mentioned art pencils. Anybody tried them?



That was me, page 1.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Thursday, November 01, 2018 - 02:11 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Someone mentioned art pencils. Anybody tried them?



I use a Sanford Prismacolor Mettallic Silver pencil for the rims of steel road wheels, idlers, driver teeth, tracks pads and guide horns— does a very realistic, neat job, and is much simpler than painting. The specific pencil I use is #PC949, available at Michaels and Hobby Lobby. I also use thier gray, brown and some green and red pencils for simulating chips, rust and wear. Combined with strategically placed square bottle Testors silver, and they can make your track “shine like new”!
VR, Russ
brekinapez
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Posted: Thursday, November 01, 2018 - 02:59 PM UTC

Quoted Text

The specific pencil I use is #PC949, available at Michaels and Hobby Lobby.



I am holding that very one in my hand right this moment. Funny thing is, I bought all of my Prismacolors (owned by Berol then) back around 1986-1988 while in college for some art projects, and then they sat inside of a Crown Royal bag until a few years ago when I decided to see if I could use them on my builds.

They were quite a bit cheaper back then, I can tell you.
long_tom
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Posted: Thursday, November 01, 2018 - 03:36 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

The specific pencil I use is #PC949, available at Michaels and Hobby Lobby.



I am holding that very one in my hand right this moment. Funny thing is, I bought all of my Prismacolors (owned by Berol then) back around 1986-1988 while in college for some art projects, and then they sat inside of a Crown Royal bag until a few years ago when I decided to see if I could use them on my builds.

They were quite a bit cheaper back then, I can tell you.


Hobby Lobby and Michael's stores have weekly 40% off coupons for a single item.
brekinapez
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Posted: Thursday, November 01, 2018 - 05:31 PM UTC
I am aware of that, but it is no fun buying colored pencils and such one at a time, especially at my HL where the lines are always so frigging sssslllllooooowwwwww.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Friday, November 02, 2018 - 03:45 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I am aware of that, but it is no fun buying colored pencils and such one at a time, especially at my HL where the lines are always so frigging sssslllllooooowwwwww.



Hmmm...I live clear across the country and have the same complaint! Yesterday I waited ten minutes in line to buy a single bottle of Acrylic thinner--there was only one register open, and there were at least eight folks in line! Then when I got to the register the chip reader was on the fritz!! There is another HL store about twenty minutes down the road that never seems to have long lines because they keep at least two or three registers open all the time. But on a crowded shopping day I've done the same wait at Michael's too. My LHS never has a long line, but they don't carry Prismacolor pencils or oil paints.
VR, Russ
JavierDeLuelmo
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Posted: Friday, November 02, 2018 - 04:18 AM UTC
Freshly used track. Open image apart for HR.

Kevlar06
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Posted: Friday, November 02, 2018 - 04:40 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Freshly used track. Open image apart for HR.




Yep--note the "clean" look of the track, the roadwheel surface and the driver teeth. There's mud around the side of the driver, but where metal meets metal, it's clean. This is a perfect example of what happens when metal parts move against each other or against rubber parts. I cringe when I walk past the armor tables at my local model shows and see the suspension of tracked vehicles that have rust caked surfaces on supposedly "operational" vehicles. It's true, in heavy mud and dust you'll see less of the "wearing" surface, but for the most part, if a track is functiononing properly, it'll "self clean"where the parts meet, and the surrounding soils tend to polish the metal. In wet weather, glop will stain or stick to those parts, but other than that, it stays fairly clean on dryer days. Tankers hate mud for lots of reasons-- but primarily because when heavy mud gets between those working surfaces, that's when tracks get "thrown". And you haven't had fun until you've waded into a muddy fender depth mire to "chain up" the towbar to haul your tank to firmer ground before cutting off the track with an acetylene torch to replace it. Even then, the track will have some "shine". In the desert, if it's been moving, it'll have quite a bit more "shine".
VR, Russ
TopSmith
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Posted: Friday, November 02, 2018 - 02:16 PM UTC
Ah some of my fondest memories are trying to dig down into soft mud to fix track and pull out a tank sunk fender deep in late November.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Friday, November 02, 2018 - 06:15 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Ah some of my fondest memories are trying to dig down into soft mud to fix track and pull out a tank sunk fender deep in late November.



Greg, you and I must have been in the same mudhole. I even have a photo. You can't really say you're a tanker until you've had the "opportunity" to break track in the mud. Something many people will never do in thier lifetime. And when a tank gets stuck-- it's really stuck.
😖
VR, Russ