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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Jar opener
j76lr
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Posted: Thursday, October 04, 2018 - 04:25 AM UTC
This is the third try to post this . I don't know what I did wrong ,but if you see it 3 times I apologize in advance ! I have a Gunze jar opener that works very well on ALMOST all the jars I use, except the Tamiya larger jars ! Does anyone know if Tamiya makes one ?









Littorio
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England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thursday, October 04, 2018 - 05:13 AM UTC
Not Tamiya, but something you can pick up from your local tool store, a pair of 'pump pliers' also known as 'alligator grips' or 'five holes'. Works on any size jar including pickle jars and also useful around the house for any plumbing jobs.
jps
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Posted: Thursday, October 04, 2018 - 05:24 AM UTC
Adding on to Lucianno's reply here in the USA we generally refer to the pliers he is refering to as "Channel Locks" which is actually a manufacter. In the shop we may call them "Channies" at least here in the midwest. These are "real" tools which could easily break a Tamiya jar. They are available from many differnt brands and sizes.

With Tamiya jars I will often turn them upside down and squirt a little alcohol or Windex into the cap and let it sit for a few minutes. This softens the paint allowing you to open the top easier. A wise modeler wipes the top of their jars before recapping but I don't.

j76lr
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Posted: Thursday, October 04, 2018 - 07:01 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Adding on to Lucianno's reply here in the USA we generally refer to the pliers he is refering to as "Channel Locks" which is actually a manufacter. In the shop we may call them "Channies" at least here in the midwest. These are "real" tools which could easily break a Tamiya jar. They are available from many differnt brands and sizes.

With Tamiya jars I will often turn them upside down and squirt a little alcohol or Windex into the cap and let it sit for a few minutes. This softens the paint allowing you to open the top easier. A wise modeler wipes the top of their jars before recapping but I don't.

I TRY TO WIPE THE JARS BUT I forget ALOT .Yes the real name is slip lock pliers . In the east we just called them channels. I have them from 18 inches down to 3 inches lol was in the HVAC business 35 years. however I've broke more bottles or at least stripped the labels off lol , Im used to bull work I guess. the Gunze is nice and easy . ( arthritic hands ) need all the help I can get lol Thanks guys !

GaryKato
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California, United States
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Posted: Thursday, October 04, 2018 - 07:11 AM UTC
I use an OXO Good Grips jar opener.
pjmurley
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Posted: Thursday, October 04, 2018 - 11:16 AM UTC
Here's a low tech solution- wrap a thick elastic band around the lid. It works quite well for opening stuck caps.
Chillidragon
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Posted: Thursday, October 04, 2018 - 11:34 AM UTC
Why not see what your local shop stocking aids for daily living* has? I get my (non latex) gloves from my local shop, but my jar opener was from a supermarket (though I haven't seen one for years).

*Disability/mobility/medical aids etc shop/store.
long_tom
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Posted: Thursday, October 04, 2018 - 01:18 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Adding on to Lucianno's reply here in the USA we generally refer to the pliers he is refering to as "Channel Locks" which is actually a manufacter. In the shop we may call them "Channies" at least here in the midwest. These are "real" tools which could easily break a Tamiya jar. They are available from many differnt brands and sizes.

With Tamiya jars I will often turn them upside down and squirt a little alcohol or Windex into the cap and let it sit for a few minutes. This softens the paint allowing you to open the top easier. A wise modeler wipes the top of their jars before recapping but I don't.



I actually used these to help open a can of paint thinner (the Home Depot brans that is).
Kevlar06
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Posted: Thursday, October 04, 2018 - 03:00 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Here's a low tech solution- wrap a thick elastic band around the lid. It works quite well for opening stuck caps.



This is what I do too-- in fact it's so low tech that it works for any bottle of paint-- and I never have to use "pliers" to remove jar lids anymore-- and the lids don't get bent, dented or broken. I've done one better than the rubber bands though-- I found an old bicycle innnertube and cut it into 1/2" and 1" bands (you can get about 50 bands out of a full sized innertube that way). They provide all the "grip" you'll need. I even leave them right on the bottle. For really difficult bottles, I use one on the cap and one on the bottle. Try it, you'll like it.
VR, Russ
Scarred
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Posted: Thursday, October 04, 2018 - 03:19 PM UTC
Not for everyone but if needed I use a small strap wrench to hold the bottle and channel locks on the cap.

Back in the day I was trying to get one of those old square Testors paint bottles open and nothing would work. So I got two pairs of pliers one to hold the bottle and one to hold the cap. That cap was stuck. I gave it a twist and broke the bottle in half. Was not amused as the mess got me in trouble with Ma.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Friday, October 05, 2018 - 02:34 AM UTC
One other thing you can do that works to open a bottle if it's really stuck-- turn it upside down on your workbench, using a larger paintbrush or pipette, dribble a little lacquer thinner around the stuck rim of the cap. Within a minute or two, wipe off the cap, turn the bottle over and voila! It'll twist right off. It'll go like "greased lightning" if you use the "rubber band method" above.
VR, Russ
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Friday, October 05, 2018 - 02:50 AM UTC

Quoted Text

One other thing you can do that works to open a bottle if it's really stuck-- turn it upside down on your workbench, using a larger paintbrush or pipette, dribble a little lacquer thinner around the stuck rim of the cap. Within a minute or two, wipe off the cap, turn the bottle over and voila! It'll twist right off. It'll go like "greased lightning" if you use the "rubber band method" above.
VR, Russ



as a complement to what Russ wrote:
Putting the jar top down in hot water (NOT boiling) for a few minutes can help in some cases, especially for metal caps.
Could be less effective with the plastic caps on Tamiya jars.

/ Robin
Chillidragon
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Posted: Friday, October 05, 2018 - 10:01 AM UTC
That works with metal caps on glass bottles by differential thermal expansion; the metal expands considerably more than the glass. I doubt that it would work for plastic - certainly not by the same mechanism!
sgtreef
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Posted: Friday, October 05, 2018 - 11:03 AM UTC
The rubber jawed Pana vise , put the jar in the rubber jaws tighten enough , and back that lid off.
Just make sure you loosen it just a tad.
Robbd01
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Posted: Friday, October 05, 2018 - 11:57 AM UTC

Quoted Text

One other thing you can do that works to open a bottle if it's really stuck-- turn it upside down on your workbench, using a larger paintbrush or pipette, dribble a little lacquer thinner around the stuck rim of the cap. Within a minute or two, wipe off the cap, turn the bottle over and voila! It'll twist right off. It'll go like "greased lightning" if you use the "rubber band method" above.
VR, Russ



Ditto

Cheers

amoz02t
#192
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Posted: Friday, October 05, 2018 - 12:12 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Not for everyone but if needed I use a small strap wrench to hold the bottle and channel locks on the cap.

Back in the day I was trying to get one of those old square Testors paint bottles open and nothing would work. So I got two pairs of pliers one to hold the bottle and one to hold the cap. That cap was stuck. I gave it a twist and broke the bottle in half. Was not amused as the mess got me in trouble with Ma.



Yes! Trouble with the wrench...





...may cause trouble with the wench!

Kevlar06
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Posted: Friday, October 05, 2018 - 01:05 PM UTC
Now that was really funny!! I think Iíve told this story beforeó but Iíll repeat it again. Itís relevant but not related to opening bottles (the right way anyway). I usually add a few stainless ball bearings to bottles to help in the mixing process. My workbench is in the garage, between my wifeís car and my car. I was shaking a bottle of black Alclad micro primer/pore filler quite vigorously. Two of those stainless steel bearings came right out the upper shoulder of the bottle, along with a perfect stream of well mixed paint, and shot across the hood of my car and over the bumper of my wifeís car, over the workbench, across the ceiling, my face, and the concrete floor. The bottle was open for sure. I had to scramble to get the paint off the cars. Alclad cleans up rather nicely though.
VR, Russ
Scarred
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Posted: Friday, October 05, 2018 - 01:18 PM UTC
@Stuart


A couple of times I was tempted to use high explosives to get those stuck bottles open but if breaking a bottle got me in a bit of hot water with my mom I hate to imagine what she would have done if I had blown up my bed room.

I will say that when paint started coming out in the larger round bottles it was easier to get stuck caps off.
smorko
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Serbia & Montenegro
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Posted: Friday, October 05, 2018 - 08:39 PM UTC
The secret to tamiya and gunze bottles is to never shake them, only stir (known as the reverse James Bond). That way no paint gets on the threads and they open easy every time.
Scarred
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Posted: Friday, October 05, 2018 - 10:09 PM UTC

Quoted Text

The secret to tamiya and gunze bottles is to never shake them, only stir (known as the reverse James Bond). That way no paint gets on the threads and they open easy every time.



Shaking, stirring, not going to matter. Doesn't matter if it's Tamiya, Gunze, Pactra, Model Master, Mig, AK or any other that has a screw on lid, that's not how paint gets on the threads. Unless you can guarantee that the bottle has always been upright during manufacturing, shipping and handling or paint hasn't slopped around from the bottles being moved paint will always be inside the lid. Taking a stirrer, pipette or paint brush in and out of the bottle will get paint on the rim. When done with the bottle just give a quick check to make sure the threads of the bottle and cap are clean if not give them a quick wipe. I've been building since the late 60's and got my first shaker in the late 80's early 90's but before that I stirred those little bottles with a tooth pick or a modified nail. There was still paint inside the cap and still got stuck lids. Humbrol was the only paint that I've used that never had a stuck lid.
firstcircle
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Posted: Saturday, October 06, 2018 - 07:39 AM UTC

Quoted Text

That works with metal caps on glass bottles by differential thermal expansion; the metal expands considerably more than the glass. I doubt that it would work for plastic - certainly not by the same mechanism!



I have found that it works with the plastic caps on Tamiya bottles. Upside down in a small dish of hot water for 30 seconds and they normally open no problem. I recall picking up this tip from Andras Donaszi (Spongya) in this forum.
Chillidragon
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Posted: Saturday, October 06, 2018 - 09:41 AM UTC
Interesting - perhaps the heat softens the paint in the threads?
TopSmith
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Posted: Saturday, October 06, 2018 - 10:01 AM UTC
I use a small set of channel lock pliers, maybe 6 inches long. When using them grip at the upper edge of the lid and all works well. On old metal lids, I lite a match and rotate the sides of the lid through the flame to soften the old paint and it opens easily.
Vicious
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Posted: Saturday, October 06, 2018 - 10:08 AM UTC
Hot water and my hands,always work,but i try to keep the treads clean,for the Humbrol "kids safety lid" i simply cut the safety off becose actually are "Human safety lid"....
Scarred
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Posted: Saturday, October 06, 2018 - 10:57 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hot water and my hands,always work,but i try to keep the treads clean,for the Humbrol "kids safety lid" i simply cut the safety off becose actually are "Human safety lid"....



Way back in the late 60's early 70's when they started putting child proof caps on medicine bottles my mom would get frustrated trying to open them, so she gave them to me to open. It'd take me a few seconds to figure it out then viola! Off came the child proof cap.
Make something child proof and only a child will be able to open it.

The old Humbrol paint tins with the pry open lids were the only lids that never stuck on me, however, you did have to make sure that the little trough around the opening didn't fill with paint or like on a one gallon paint can the paint would dry and the lid wouldn't seal properly and the paint would dry out and back in the day Humbrol was more expensive than the other brands I could get.