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Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Bronco 1/35 Turan II Review Blog
errains
#045
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Posted: Saturday, April 27, 2019 - 09:33 AM UTC
all I can say is...PHENOMENAL!!!

Though I feel drybrushing still has its place in todays finishing and weathering trends this example certainly does not need any as you achieved excellent definition between the many panels and other details.

Kind of a shame to hide all that beautiful suspension work behind the side skirts.

Oh did I say I think this build is just...PHENOMENAL!!!

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Posted: Saturday, April 27, 2019 - 08:19 AM UTC
That came out quite nicely.
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Posted: Saturday, April 27, 2019 - 08:17 AM UTC
Really nice work Matthew and the journey has been pleasing to follow.
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Posted: Saturday, April 27, 2019 - 07:30 AM UTC
Some low angle person height views for the record:









Thanks to Bronco for sending this sample to Armorama, and thanks to Darren for sending it on to me.
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Posted: Saturday, April 27, 2019 - 07:25 AM UTC
Eric, Tony Greenland, wow thanks, though I think my models are considerably rougher around the edges than his. I admit I do have his Panzer Modelling book, the finish on the wheels is a bit like his technique, and he did used to like a pretty camo scheme; no dry brushed edges here though.

Earlier I trial fitted, then removed, the side skirts, now with the turret armour on I could test fit both together. This revealed that the bottom edge of the turret armour would just snag the side skirts if the turret was rotated. The side skirts hang by lowering the eyelets onto the two rows of hooked brackets. The amount the skirts needed to be lowered by was only about 1mm so I used a hairdryer to slightly warm the brackets that are mounted on the rail attached to the bogies, and then bend them down a little, and that proved enough.

It also helps lower the skirts to insert the hooks as far as possible into the eyelets, but the two painted surfaces don't move against each other easily. As can be seen below, some of the hooks went in further than others:


I tried some airbrush lube to see if that would ease things up:


The lubricant definitely helped and allowed the skirts to be attached straight, and low enough. I should add that before mounting the skirts, the end portion of the front and rear plates needs to be bent in slightly so as to meet the track guard.

You can see by this stage that the hull had been mounted on a wooden base (from jaya10612 on ebay.co.uk) as once the turret with its armour and the side skirts are in place, the model is very difficult to handle.

So that is it more or less complete. The missing sledgehammer needs to be replaced, or at least the clasps, but I'll have to make it.

An interesting tank kit then, that produces an attractive looking model, although it is quite complex and in places fairly awkward to make and paint. I'm not sure that there is any ideal way to cope with making and painting the tracks and suspension assemblies, and some will prefer other methods to the one I used. The tracks on these tanks are quite distinctively chunky and their appearance is well captured by the kit parts, including cast in numbers on each link, so no need for aftermarket items (save your $40 for something else).








errains
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Posted: Sunday, March 31, 2019 - 12:37 PM UTC
Hello Matthew,
Good job with the skirt armour, as you stated quite stressful at this stage of the build for sure. I would like to commend you on the finish that you achieved thus far. The harmony of the colors is just beautiful. Your style reminds me of other great English modeler, Tony Greenland.

Looking forward to see this one come to a great finish!
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Posted: Sunday, March 31, 2019 - 09:49 AM UTC
Thanks very much Eric, nice of you to comment.

Weathering of the skirt armour has been continuing, this is the turret side plates more or less done:


One of the things that is missing on the big hull plates is any engraved line between the separate plates. It would make sense to engrave it yourself prior to painting, but having not done so I decided to paint it on. This is the masking:


Vallejo German Camo Black Brown (often used as a chipping colour) was sprayed on, resulting in fine lines that I think are about the right degree of subtlety.


In preparation for the final big challenge of this kit, attaching the turret spaced armour, I thought I'd better test fit the turret to make sure it's not too difficult to fit in place, once the armour plates are on. The brackets make the turret painfully delicate, so all handling has to be done using the gun, the hatch, and the raised section on top.
Fortunately it goes on quite easily, so time for a few shots of the almost finished model without any of the stand off armour:


Here can be seen the result of quite a lot of painting work done to the bogies, wheels, tracks, with repeated oil and enamel washes, pigments, Tamiya Flat Earth etc.


A very few small chips visible, and some metallic pigment on the hull armour hangers:



Fitting the turret armour was quite stressful. The brackets are delicate, and some needed bending a little to get into the right position for the eyelets on the plates, and needless to say that has to be done very carefully.

The lower left bracket on the rear plate (visible in the photo below) just wouldn't slot into the eyelet, and it also repeatedly hooked underneath the plate itself every time I tried to get all the brackets correctly engaged.

Trying to dry fit all the hooks and eyes in one go proved really hard, so on the side plate I made sure that the top of the rear section was engaged and applied CA glue. The front part is effectively slightly hinged where it angles round, so that section could be done separately. Once the top was done, I could turn the turret over and work on the lower section of hooks and eyes.



All of them attached, waiting for the glue to fully cure before doing any further adjustment, and also, probably, some touching up of paint:




errains
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Posted: Sunday, March 24, 2019 - 10:58 PM UTC
OUTSTANDING Build Article!!!

I'm sorry I missed this thread until now. The craftsmanship is excellent and the information provided is useful and relevant.

Awesome Job Matthew and Thanks for posting this!
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Posted: Sunday, March 24, 2019 - 10:14 AM UTC

Quoted Text

...looking forward to seeing the finished product!


Thanks Darren and Colin, almost, but not quite there.

Coming back to the side skirt hangers that were constructed months ago, but have been left until after the wheel / track units were attached because they need to be positioned very precisely in relation to the hooks on the track guards, in line with the eyelets on the back of the skirts. Plus I'd forgotten to paint the outer side, which I did today:


Starting with the skirt with the missing rear panel as it is a bit easier to see what's going on behind it, the rack was hooked dry, no glue, into the eyelets.


Paint carefully scraped off the bogies:


The upper eyelets on skirt, with lower rack attached, was then offered up to the hooks on the track guards and the correct position of those three rivets on the right was noted. The lower rack was removed from the skirt and cemented into place:


The same process on the other side, but a bit harder with the full length side skirt. This is the kind of view available of what's going on behind the skirt while working out the correct position of the rack:

Looking at the eyelets on the skirt, the only pair that should sit directly perpendicular is circled below, but even here, the lower one has to be slightly behind.


The skirt was gently hung on the now cemented but not fully cured racks for this photo.


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Posted: Thursday, March 07, 2019 - 01:01 AM UTC
Looking great Matt, looking forward to seeing the finished product!
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#406
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Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2019 - 08:47 PM UTC
You do great work Matt and I like they way you present the stages.
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Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2019 - 11:31 AM UTC
My previous observation about the missing rivets was wrong, so I have deleted it. They are there, just hidden by the overlapping plate.

I decided no more procrastinating about attaching the track units, like by building small scale replicas of this kit, so I did some dust on the side plates in preparation:


Then, in common with so many blogs and magazine articles where there are many photos of all the other stages, the ugly stage of wrestling the tracks into place is just suddenly done. One of the links came apart, unfortunately at the front, but I just about managed to get it reattached without too much mess, and it is almost still straight.


Much more used to building small scale tanks, I find 1/35 tank tracks kind of creaky, and to make sure they sit straight (as possible) and with the tracks flat on the ground, I used a hairdryer to warm everything up, then added a lot of weight on top and left it for 24 hours. Mostly it looks acceptable, I think:




The metal mudscrapers which sit between the last return roller and the idler were attached with one of those moves that you need to practice several times before adding the glue:


The open driver's hatch was also added:


What was I saying about the headlamps being delicate? I broke both of them. I also managed to lose the sledgehammer.
Removed by original poster on 03/05/19 - 23:16:17 (GMT).
firstcircle
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Posted: Tuesday, January 15, 2019 - 09:25 AM UTC
So priming, base coating and attaching these parts that I forgot was something of a time consuming chore, not helped by having had some minor eye surgery which has resulted in a certain amount of double vision (well, worse than it is normally anyway. ) Once set I'll blend them in at the same as weathering the side skirt armour.


Attaching the spare track links to the front seemed like it should be so easy. So if done as per the instructions, it would have been right near the start, but notice that the section of track provided is dead flat (it's not made out of the separate links) yet lies on top of a bolted cover in the centre of the plate, so it cannot actually lie flat. Photos of the real thing sometimes seem to show it apparently lying dead flat, but this nice photo does show it slightly humped in the centre, and then a slight gap on the right between the track and the bar clamping it in place:


So that's what I went for, but note that the tiny pip underneath the wing nut isn't long enough to contact the hole in the plate beneath it, so a small section of 0.8mm rod was added in, arrowed, and still a bit shiny from the glue. The wire cutters were then added just above, on the right.





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Posted: Sunday, January 06, 2019 - 11:22 AM UTC
Thanks, Darren, for your encouragement, it is appreciated.

While working on the braille scale IBG Turan II, I was referring to the Bronco instructions and realised I'd managed to leave some parts unassembled. Parts C35, 36 and 37 shown in the instructions image below, all the way back in step 4; they need to be attached at the diamond shape circled:


Although the suspension has been painted, this seems relatively easy to fix, especially as the track units are still separate. So I've started assmembling them (below), and will wait for them to set before priming and painting, then attaching them and blending in.
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#406
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Posted: Wednesday, December 19, 2018 - 06:24 AM UTC
This is looking really Matt and I would be proud to have it on my shelf, well done thus far.
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Posted: Wednesday, December 19, 2018 - 03:50 AM UTC
Hi again, I seem to have spent a while doing oil paint stuff, which has resulted in a hopefully enhanced appearance including toning down the somewhat ragged overspray in places.


Still haven't knocked any brackets completely off the turret yet.


Started adding more hull details, including the bow machine guns which slotted on with a little force. Also the headlamps, and I was reminded of one reason for not attaching them earlier, which is that the thin part of the stem is very thin and delicate. The small bits of PE on the base are meant to represent the means by which the demountable headlamps were held in place, so if you wanted to represent them not being in place, photos suggest that you could cut away the lamp and about half of the stem. I suppose there would be some kind of electrical connection, but it may be that the clips should still be in the same vertical position in order to hold in place some covering for that connection; I can't see that it would be left open.


The pair of jacks were added, with CA glue fastening the top end inside the box like stowage, and polystyrene cement holding the clips together at the base end overhanging the rear.


Also started adding tools, drilling the mounting holes a little bigger; shovel at the back, axe and track tool at the front:


Also above the jack block is being pushed into place; no glue is needed here as the fit is tight, and it can be seen that I sanded down the sides (and underneath) to get it to slide into place. The last thing I wanted here was for the jack block holder to detach from the track guard.

As it was time to do some touching up of a few small bits (spare track holder, hatch lids) with the camouflage colours, the side skirts were also painted, starting with the Mr Color sand:


Some care is needed regarding the tiny holes (I think they're about 0.3mm) in that thick paint applied too heavily can start to bridge the gaps. The holes can actually be seen to apparently reduce in size, but waiting for the paint solvent to evaporate then shrinks the paint back down. Then the Tamiya Flat Brown:


Other side, with the missing rear panel, plus the plate for the back of the turret:








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Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2018 - 11:05 AM UTC
The tracks and wheel units had been sitting patiently wired on to the foam blocks, but have recently had the tyres painted black, and a black pin wash, both Humbrol enamel. Now I want to get the tracks painted, and was looking into what might an appropriate colour. There don't appear to be any genuine colour photos of this tank of good enough quality to show the colour, and I was reading the "How to paint tank treads" pinned thread in the Painting and Weathering Forum, especially the recent contributions regarding manganese steel. So although a common colour to use is a grey / brown, that looked a bit too much like iron oxide rust, and I wanted to get something greyer. Having started with Vallejo German Camo Black Brown I over sprayed with thinned Dark Rust, and then with LifeColor Worn Black, then with very light angled sprays of AK Dust Effects.

So this is the resulting "unweathered" track that now needs some dark washes and maybe some dried earth...


The driver hatch and turret hatch halves have been sitting around, now I want to get them prepared for fixing in place, first the driver hatch needs to be assembled and touched up with paint before being attached. It folds in half and then forwards, so that the rear section ends up underneath, resting on the open visor, so the angle of the join needs to be set correctly:



In painting the tools, I again found it hard to tell if they should be wood finish or painted, so went for a kind of compromise of heavily chipped paint. Started with this:



Then used chipping fluid and sprayed it all the green base colour. This didn't work that well as the wood is so pale it took too much of the Hataka paint to get sufficient coverage, so that when chipped it came off in big chunks.



Chipping is more subtle on the jacks:


... and the jack blocks:







firstcircle
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Posted: Sunday, November 25, 2018 - 10:12 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Very good save there Matt as I would not have tackled the decal issue you have resolved.



Darren, I seriously considered removing it but did a search on "thick decals" on Armorama and found that solution suggested.
:)
I notice that AK have started marketing their own fibreglass pencil, though it looks the same as any other, I think.
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#406
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Posted: Sunday, November 25, 2018 - 08:55 AM UTC
Very good save there Matt as I would not have tackled the decal issue you have resolved.
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Posted: Sunday, November 25, 2018 - 06:16 AM UTC
A bit more on those thick decals. The turret numbers were particularly noticeable, especially as I'd hacked them to make a different number.

A few evenings were spent coating that plate with Klear, then the following evening abrading it using a fibre glass pencil and recoating it, three or so times until any ridges were removed. The fibre glass pencil was perfect for a very controllable, smooth, but significant abrasiveness without any risk of removing any rivet detail, or those brackets.
This photo is also after the first pin wash:


I notice now that I bent another bracket, and how imperfect the pin wash looks close up. This pinwash is the first painting after the base coat > clear coat and made me appreciate just how many rivets and bolts there are. It's taken about a week and I can see there's still a few been missed. Different washes were used for the different camo colours, so dark brown on the sandy areas, dark green on the green and black on the brown.




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Posted: Thursday, November 15, 2018 - 08:22 AM UTC
Decals:


The sheet provides for five specific vehicles for the colour schemes shown. There's a choice of registration plate for the all over green scheme, and the two camouflaged schemes for 2nd Armoured Division are for two tanks from the same unit, so there's scope if someone wanted to build a diorama featuring two Turan IIs. The book mentioned above includes a photo of the two 2nd Armoured Div tanks knocked out on rail flat cars.

As well as registration plates (like Italian tanks, Hungarian tanks had road vehicle numbers, like cars and trucks) for specific vehicles, there are also two plates with blanks that can be filled in with the spare numerals.

So a pretty comprehensive decal sheet. As soon as I started to apply them however I noticed a few issues. One is that the decals are quite thick; that kind of thick where there's no chance of the decal folding back on itself when you're about to apply it.

Photos of camouflaged Turans with side skirts suggest that the crosses were only applied to the tank sides, not the skirt, so here is one going on, being slide under the tow cable, notice how it really only just fits between the rivets:


Placing one of the individual numbers on to the reg plate at the rear. These work well, and it didn't matter like I thought it might that the decals are thick.


The big cross on the rear deck; the digitised printing pattern is noticeable at this magnification but not really at normal viewing size. Notice again how it just squeezes in between the hinges and the handles.


One of the problems with thick decals is them not clinging so tightly, and unfortunately repeated applications of Micro Sol didn't really do much:


Decals at the front. Notice the tiny mis-registration of the white in the Hungarian flag motif. These also illustrate the other issue which is that I think all the decals are a bit too big, as if they're 1/32 instead of 1/35.


Compare with the photo below, which is one of the specific tanks that decals are provided for, and I think you can see how the decals on the kit seem to fit a bit too tightly into the spaces. The white shield also looks to be slightly the wrong shape.




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#406
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Posted: Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 12:47 PM UTC
Looking good as always bud.
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Posted: Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 11:08 AM UTC
Made a start with rusting the exhausts. Ideally it be should be the other way round, rust colours on first, followed by base coat, but I think it should be OK once more paints and pigments are added later. So this was AK chipping fluid, three coats sprayed on, then the three Panzer Aces rust shades applied. Chipping was done after a few minutes with a small angled brush:



I should give a mention to this book, which is an interesting, highly illustrated, well written, if occasionally imperfectly translated into English, and useful reference while building this kit. Though only around 15 or so pages of the 120+ total are concerned directly with the Turan, some of the photos are very good, and there are decent line drawings and nice colour profiles and colourised photos.


I wonder what became of these two...

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Posted: Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 10:48 AM UTC
I should mention the paint guide, if only to point out that some misreading seems to have occurred by whoever compiled it for Bronco.


The top row is meant to be dark yellow, but all the codes given are for olive drab shades: Tamiya Dark Yellow should be XF-60, Hobby Color (Aqueous) should be C39, Mr Hobby (Lacquer) should be H-79, while Humbrol's is Matt 24 (I think?)
Tamiya is given as a blank for Tyre Black... NATO black perhaps or X-18 semi gloss black?
For Steel things are a bit confused: both Mr Hobby paints are silvery steel colours, while the Humbrol is gun metal, but the Tamiya is XF-10 Flat Brown, while against Rust, Tamiya get a blank again - perhaps that should be the Flat Brown?
Anyway, suffice to say the paint guide needs some checking and interpretation.

And on the subject, I went with Tamiya XF-10 Flat Brown for the "red brown" camouflage as it seemed the closest to the brown in the Hataka set, and as I said before I want to avoid the camo looking too "German". (Plus I've got a new bottle of it )