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Dioramas
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Corner ruin and sorundings 1/35 schratchbuild
Bruc84
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Posted: Sunday, October 07, 2018 - 11:03 PM UTC
A link to the finished diorama...

https://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=272080&page=1

Regards… Boštjan
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Tuesday, July 31, 2018 - 09:17 AM UTC
Much better!
Maybe let the dust reach larger areas of the street?
There would have been large dust clouds when the building got damaged, covering the whole street and maybe washed away where streams of rain water had a chance to wash it away ....
/ Robin
Bruc84
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Posted: Tuesday, July 31, 2018 - 07:31 AM UTC
Ok... some progress...

pastels fixed with white spirit, some grass tufs and some moss in the canal...

Robin, thanks for the fotos of rubble... they will be useful in next projects...

















The dust is not so shiny in reality...

now i am playing with the puddles in the canal...

comments welcome...
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Monday, July 30, 2018 - 12:59 AM UTC
No, no recipe for puddles. I have never tried to make a diorama.
Any type of acrylic laquer or even floor polish should work as long as it is built up in thin layers.


Details of rubble/dust on sidewalk
/ Robin
Bruc84
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Posted: Monday, July 30, 2018 - 12:45 AM UTC
I think that i Will go with the "washed" grass growing look and some puddles… Do you have some good home made recipie for puddles? or i shuld buy vallejo still water?


I Will put some pigments at the edge of the rubble (and some inside) and i Will fix them with white spirit… i Will also make marks to the puddles (in the rain gutter) to show how the dust was hash away

The window pieces are in plan, but i Will add theme in the end…


Thanks for your suggestions...
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Monday, July 30, 2018 - 12:45 AM UTC
Dust from concrete and mortar would be light grey so a very light layer of the colours from the joints between the bricks and the plaster outside the bricks could be a solution.
It would be a pity to cover those nicely painted paving stones but at least there should be more "dust" in the cracks

Some other thoughts:
1. Bricks broken out from the walls and lying on the street/sidewalk should have more residue from the mortar joints on them. They look a little too clean now.

2. That kind of damage to the building should have created more rubble. An alternative now is to make the remaining rubble look like someone has removed most of it and just a little remains. In that case the left overs should be more regular as if someone has cleared the street and half of the sidewalk.

3. If there had been rubble on the street the joints between the paving stones should be full of dust.

4. The paving stones, street and sidewalk, look wet (washed or by a recent rain) and in that case the heaps of rubble would have less well defined edges. The finer stuff would have washed out over the paving stones and filled in the cracks.

Some inspiration




Civilians clearing rubble. Note how it is shovelled into heaps to clear the road.


A "cleared" street ...


Aleppo, rubble looks more or less the same today ...


Note the size of the heaps. Doing that size is unrealistic in your diorama but you get the general idea. Even if it has been cleared the cleared surfaces should probably be dirtier ...


Another "clean" street ...




Grass growing at the edge of the rubble




Searching for something useful ...


Street which has not been cleared ...


This could be a bit further down from your street corner
"MacFarland standing near automobile in a bombed street where rubble has been piled onto sidewalks in Berlin, Germany in April 1945"


Instead of cleaning the insides of the haouse they now clean the insides of the house off the street

Dioramartin
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Posted: Monday, July 30, 2018 - 12:29 AM UTC
Bostjan – looks great, some suggestions:

More random rubble on the street & pavement – unless your depiction is long after the action when streets were swept/tidied, of course. If it is, then yes your ideas about weeds/puddles sound good.

It’s a building so it had windows – I don’t see any pieces of shattered window frames (balsa) or broken glass (bits of acetate and/or crushed rock-salt) in the rubble. That window in the ruin could also have fragments of frame/glass in it.

Dust – buy 5 small sticks of pastel chalk from an Artists materials shop – blue, yellow, red, black & white. Make 5 piles of dust scraping the side of each stick with a blade, then use a soft brush to mix an unlimited range of colours such as brick-dust, concrete, soot etc as though you were mixing paint on a palette. Then just brush the dust on - it won’t blow away but if it worries you a very light spray of matt/flat fixative will ensure it all stays put.

Tim
Bruc84
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Posted: Sunday, July 29, 2018 - 11:55 PM UTC










It is a little bit betther, but something is missing...



I want to put some dust with airbrush on the rubble… do you have some recipie?


Second option is to leave it like it is put some puddles, some grass growing from the rubble an make it like the rubble is there for a while and it has been washed from the rain several times...

Suggestions welcome...
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Sunday, July 15, 2018 - 09:25 PM UTC
I don't have any tips about painting/weathering buildings but a general advice is to go out and check the real thing.

It looks as if the joints between the bricks are not flush with the front of the bricks. If the wall has been covered with plaster/grout then the joints would be flush. There could/should also be some of the plaster/grout left on some places of the bricks.
The plaster/grout is more or less the same material as in the joints between the bricks and if the bricks are "clean" it means that the plaster/grout has never had a "grip" on the bricks (the builder did a bad job).











If the damages to the plaster has been caused by impacts, physical violence, then maybe the bricks inside the damaged plaster should also be damaged?

About the bricks: When using bricks to build a wall it is very important to get some bonds/strength through the wall, at a 90 degree angle to the face of the wall.
If you look at this image you see that some bricks show their ends and not their sides:

Some diagrams over different bond types:


https://theconstructor.org/building/types-bonds-brick-masonry-flemish-english-wall/11616/

/ Robin
Bruc84
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Posted: Sunday, July 15, 2018 - 07:52 PM UTC




I painted the metal parts and done my first ever rust efect… for the first time i am Quite happy...







I added a lot of very diluited pale sand shades on the building, but i am non Quite sottisvied with the result… I dont know where to find references for the color and how to aproach painting of big surfaces…

All advices more then welcome…

At this time the facade of the building shines to mutch, and i Will tone it down with oil colors, oil colors Will also produce shadows in the gaps between concrete platres, but this is still not it...

If you have a tutorila of painting big building surfaces lease let me know...

Stay tuned…

Bostjan
Bruc84
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Posted: Saturday, July 14, 2018 - 08:28 PM UTC
Paul... i buildit my self. If you want i can give you the plans... cost: 15dollars if you have a friend with a cnc shop...

Robin... some greate tips on that link... i followed pritty mutch all of theme...

RobinNilsson
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Posted: Saturday, July 14, 2018 - 07:42 PM UTC
An alternative answer:
http://www.hirstarts.com/casting/advanced.html
Maybe a justifiable reason to buy a vibrator ......
/ Robin
trooper82
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Posted: Saturday, July 14, 2018 - 11:20 AM UTC
Hello Bostjan,
This is a great tutorial and looks fantastic. May I ask where did you get the vibrating table ?
Paul
timcc2008
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Posted: Thursday, July 12, 2018 - 01:03 AM UTC
This is turning out very well. Thank you for the step by step- very informative.

vr,

Tim
Lawyer1
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Posted: Thursday, July 12, 2018 - 12:57 AM UTC
Hi there Bostjan

This is some amazing work - keep it coming.
Bruc84
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Posted: Wednesday, July 11, 2018 - 11:37 PM UTC
Halo to evrybody…

Some updates...



The ruins are done... I added some pieces of pipes, some copper wire and some pieces of twisted brass sheets...


I masked the cobblestone with masking paper...




I sprayed the ruins and building in black… I added some diluited paint to go int the cravicies… than i sprayed 3 gray shades to bring things to life...



I peeled the masking paper of and masked only the border… Then i continued drybrushing light gray shades on the top... I Row umber oil wash was applied to cobblesotone and to the begining of the ruins to blend them together...





The results ar on top 3 pictures...




I started painting details with acrylics… the paint is diluited so the base show tru (a little)






Results on top 3 pictures

If you look carfully, the building have the same color of the ruins, and i didnt want that, so i aplied a light broun acrilic filter on the ruins. The result (so far) is this:

Bruc84
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Posted: Sunday, May 13, 2018 - 08:22 PM UTC
Thanks mate... I hope to continue the work soon...
Klaus-Adler
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MODELGEEK
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Posted: Sunday, May 13, 2018 - 02:37 PM UTC
This looks amazing, you're doing a great job and I look forward to seeing more soon
Bruc84
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Posted: Sunday, May 13, 2018 - 02:08 PM UTC


With a soft brush we sweep the dirt into the gaps...




I tried to fix the dirt with Glanzer (an equivalent for your future floor polish) but it didnt work well... so I added a little white glue to the mix... It worked perfectly...



This mix also toned down the cobblestone alittle, and covered the plaster with protective film, so i can apply wash with oils now...



It is time to add some rubble... This is my recipie:
First i add unthined white glue



Than i add big dirt pieces and emidiatly throw away the excess of dirt...



I add more untined glue (smaller surface than the first step) and again big dirt pieces... I repeat this step several times to form a pile... I also add some balsa pieces ti simulate pieces of wood... I fix evrything with diluited white glue... (2part water 1 part glue). Brush full of this stuff, tuch the pile and the capilary effect will do the rest...



When its still wet we add some white glue and we add small rocks (cat toilet) and small brick debries... alsso some casted bricks an cobblestone...




Stay tuned...
Bruc84
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Posted: Sunday, May 13, 2018 - 01:57 PM UTC


I started the frame... Balsa 4mm... folowing the rule: ...mesure twice, cut once...






I used a self made sanding rig for straight angles... it works perfectly...



The diorama its in the frame, and the ruin is placed... time to fill the gaops betewn the cobblestone...



I filtered the dirt from my garden... it is a little to big for the gaps... next time i will use a finer sieve, but for now it will be good...
americanpanzer
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Posted: Friday, May 04, 2018 - 08:21 PM UTC
amazing work!! lots to learn; might have to try some of these techniques
cheyenne
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Posted: Friday, May 04, 2018 - 07:31 PM UTC
Nice work man , very clean build in a destruction kind of way .
Bruc84
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Posted: Friday, May 04, 2018 - 03:30 PM UTC
Ok... 6days to competition... the devil took the joke away (a slovenian say... ) and i started the casting factory...





I made the cobble stone in 3 colors... brown gray and some yellow to be more interesting...



I first lyed down the gutter...



The results after 2h of work...



A little help so the first row Will be "perpendicular"



To add interest i made 2 diferent ways of cobblestone...



First way is done...



And the other way (THANKS GOD) is done to...

Hope you like it...
Bruc84
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Posted: Sunday, April 29, 2018 - 03:50 PM UTC
Thanks...
Bricksy1969
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Posted: Sunday, April 29, 2018 - 01:49 PM UTC
Looks brilliant