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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
AK Real Colors&True-Color Paints
retiredyank
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Posted: Monday, March 12, 2018 - 07:56 PM UTC
I was finally able to break out some AK Real Color paints, this morning. They spray beautifully. They have almost no odor, being true acrylics. I compared them to Tru-Colors, which have a terrible smell. The Tru-Color paint, though thinned 1:1, with their thinner(I believe is pure acetone) clogged my brush(Badger Renegade Krome .3mm nozzle) immediately. Even though I have broken it down, into individual pieces and soaked it in lacquer thinner, in my ultra-sonic cleaner, I still can not get it to spray water. I dread having to send it in for repair. I will attempt to flush it, with acetone. I would give them another chance, but I'm down to one brush and am hesitant to risk both brushes being out of action. In the future, I will relegate Tru-Colors to hairy stick painting. AK has great spray potential and I plan on investing in several more bottles of their Real Color line.
SgtRam
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AEROSCALE
#197
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Posted: Monday, March 12, 2018 - 09:24 PM UTC
Just to clarify AK Real Colors are an Acrylic Lacquer, not a "true acrylic".

retiredyank
#160
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Posted: Tuesday, March 13, 2018 - 01:25 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Just to clarify AK Real Colors are an Acrylic Lacquer, not a "true acrylic".




I reduced them, with water and they sprayed beautifully. But, I now remember they were labeled as "lacquers", when announced.

P.S. I was finally able to get my ab to spray. I will give Tru-Colors another go.
sgtreef
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Posted: Tuesday, March 13, 2018 - 03:49 AM UTC
Glad you posted this Matt.
So did you ever get them to settle down?
retiredyank
#160
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Posted: Tuesday, March 13, 2018 - 06:28 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Glad you posted this Matt.
So did you ever get them to settle down?



I will follow up, with this one, tomorrow morning.
retiredyank
#160
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Posted: Tuesday, March 13, 2018 - 01:00 PM UTC
My second attempt, at Tru-Colors went well. I have gone into this a little more, on Tru-Colors' thread. Photos of Ak's line are immanent. I'm just letting the gloss coat dry.

My third attempt failed, in the same way as my first. I have thinned Tru-Color to near transparency. It likes to dry in the tip. I may have ruined my build and will not attempt to spray that line of paint, again. I apologize for the lack of photos. Every time I sit down to take a picture, I think, "well a little more detail, first". Except for the recent error, I have nearly finished the build.
retiredyank
#160
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Posted: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 - 01:19 AM UTC
I finally achieved the proper ratio for Tru-Color. It is 2:3(paint:thinner), plus two drops of Windex. Sprays very well. Of course, you can adjust this ratio to suite your needs. I just haven't had much luck.
retiredyank
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Posted: Wednesday, March 21, 2018 - 09:06 PM UTC




sgtreef
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Posted: Monday, March 26, 2018 - 05:41 AM UTC
Looks good Matt.
I am beginning to like Tamiya flat coat , and their gloss.
Also I found if you use the thinner and the flow agent for Vallejo is also good.
retiredyank
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Posted: Monday, March 26, 2018 - 06:47 PM UTC
I use Tamiya acryls for base coats. I like Vallejo, but they can not be sanded and I have had issues, with their primers.
metooshelah
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Posted: Thursday, March 29, 2018 - 08:07 PM UTC
I'm not sure thinning paint with aceton is a good idea. Probably could damage the seals, plus it vaporizes very, very quickly, so I wouldn't be surprised if the color wasn't even thinned as it should
retiredyank
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Posted: Thursday, March 29, 2018 - 08:12 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I'm not sure thinning paint with aceton is a good idea. Probably could damage the seals, plus it vaporizes very, very quickly, so I wouldn't be surprised if the color wasn't even thinned as it should



Agreed. I will contact Tru-Color for alternative reduction agents.
Silantra
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Posted: Thursday, March 29, 2018 - 08:13 PM UTC
Hi Matt,

thanks for the review... just curios, can they be thinned with Mr.Thinner??

thanks
trucolorpaint
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Posted: Monday, April 02, 2018 - 06:27 AM UTC
Tru-Color Paint is a solvent based paint. It contains a mixture of 7 different solvents so that it can be sprayed at 28-35 PSI with little or NO thinning. Our thinner , TCP-015, is made with the same blend of solvents used to manufacture the paint so that it will not hurt the intended finish or spray qualities of the paint. If Thinner is needed, we recommend no more than 15-20 % be added. In a fresh bottle of paint, you should not need anymore than that. In hot weather you can add 5-10 % Retarder, TCP-310, to slow down the evaporation rate.

We recommend that you do NOT use acetone to thin the Tru-Color Paint as it dries too fast and may cause the paint to blush. Acetone should only be used for cleaning up your air brush or dry brushes. It will clean everything nicely and you can do a 2nd or even a 3rd color within 30-45 minutes after the first color application.

The reason modelers think that Tru-Color Paint is an acetone based paint is because it is the most odorous and volatile of the solvents used in the mixture (although it is less than 10% of the mix) and by shipping regulations has to be listed as a component on the label because of its flammability.

Trust this helps.

Martin Cohen, PhD
Tru-Color Paint
P.O. Box 74524
Phoenix, AZ 85087-4524

714-488-9779
sgtreef
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Posted: Tuesday, April 03, 2018 - 05:12 AM UTC
I got the paints Martin, but my last build was to close to being finished, but I am getting a T-34/85 so will try on them.
Greens are tad off will see what I can mix up, of what I have.

Cheers

Jeff
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Posted: Tuesday, April 03, 2018 - 06:50 AM UTC
I used them the first time on a Valentine. I thinned them with Tamiya Lacquer thinner.
The second time on a T-60 using their thinner.
Both times they sprayed about the same as you would expect from Tamiya paints.
I like them.
RLlockie
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Posted: Tuesday, April 03, 2018 - 11:10 AM UTC
I tried sanding Vallejo’s primer and had no problem at all. I keep seeing people claim that it can’t be sanded but my experience is not consistent with that.
metooshelah
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Posted: Wednesday, April 04, 2018 - 03:49 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Tru-Color Paint is a solvent based paint. It contains a mixture of 7 different solvents so that it can be sprayed at 28-35 PSI with little or NO thinning. Our thinner , TCP-015, is made with the same blend of solvents used to manufacture the paint so that it will not hurt the intended finish or spray qualities of the paint. If Thinner is needed, we recommend no more than 15-20 % be added. In a fresh bottle of paint, you should not need anymore than that. In hot weather you can add 5-10 % Retarder, TCP-310, to slow down the evaporation rate.

We recommend that you do NOT use acetone to thin the Tru-Color Paint as it dries too fast and may cause the paint to blush. Acetone should only be used for cleaning up your air brush or dry brushes. It will clean everything nicely and you can do a 2nd or even a 3rd color within 30-45 minutes after the first color application.

The reason modelers think that Tru-Color Paint is an acetone based paint is because it is the most odorous and volatile of the solvents used in the mixture (although it is less than 10% of the mix) and by shipping regulations has to be listed as a component on the label because of its flammability.

Trust this helps.

Martin Cohen, PhD
Tru-Color Paint
P.O. Box 74524
Phoenix, AZ 85087-4524

714-488-9779



most desktop compressors (tank-less mostly) can't push 28-35PSI for long (definitely not for an entire painting session) before they shut off, if they can manage it all.
retiredyank
#160
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Posted: Wednesday, April 04, 2018 - 05:13 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Tru-Color Paint is a solvent based paint. It contains a mixture of 7 different solvents so that it can be sprayed at 28-35 PSI with little or NO thinning. Our thinner , TCP-015, is made with the same blend of solvents used to manufacture the paint so that it will not hurt the intended finish or spray qualities of the paint. If Thinner is needed, we recommend no more than 15-20 % be added. In a fresh bottle of paint, you should not need anymore than that. In hot weather you can add 5-10 % Retarder, TCP-310, to slow down the evaporation rate.

We recommend that you do NOT use acetone to thin the Tru-Color Paint as it dries too fast and may cause the paint to blush. Acetone should only be used for cleaning up your air brush or dry brushes. It will clean everything nicely and you can do a 2nd or even a 3rd color within 30-45 minutes after the first color application.

The reason modelers think that Tru-Color Paint is an acetone based paint is because it is the most odorous and volatile of the solvents used in the mixture (although it is less than 10% of the mix) and by shipping regulations has to be listed as a component on the label because of its flammability.

Trust this helps.

Martin Cohen, PhD
Tru-Color Paint
P.O. Box 74524
Phoenix, AZ 85087-4524

714-488-9779



most desktop compressors (tank-less mostly) can't push 28-35PSI for long (definitely not for an entire painting session) before they shut off, if they can manage it all.



This is likely why I encountered clogging. The highest I went was 25psi. I have an old Badger compressor that pulsates, at higher psi.
sgtreef
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Posted: Thursday, April 05, 2018 - 04:37 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Tru-Color Paint is a solvent based paint. It contains a mixture of 7 different solvents so that it can be sprayed at 28-35 PSI with little or NO thinning. Our thinner , TCP-015, is made with the same blend of solvents used to manufacture the paint so that it will not hurt the intended finish or spray qualities of the paint. If Thinner is needed, we recommend no more than 15-20 % be added. In a fresh bottle of paint, you should not need anymore than that. In hot weather you can add 5-10 % Retarder, TCP-310, to slow down the evaporation rate.

We recommend that you do NOT use acetone to thin the Tru-Color Paint as it dries too fast and may cause the paint to blush. Acetone should only be used for cleaning up your air brush or dry brushes. It will clean everything nicely and you can do a 2nd or even a 3rd color within 30-45 minutes after the first color application.

The reason modelers think that Tru-Color Paint is an acetone based paint is because it is the most odorous and volatile of the solvents used in the mixture (although it is less than 10% of the mix) and by shipping regulations has to be listed as a component on the label because of its flammability.

Trust this helps.

Martin Cohen, PhD
Tru-Color Paint
P.O. Box 74524
Phoenix, AZ 85087-4524

714-488-9779



most desktop compressors (tank-less mostly) can't push 28-35PSI for long (definitely not for an entire painting session) before they shut off, if they can manage it all.



This is likely why I encountered clogging. The highest I went was 25psi. I have an old Badger compressor that pulsates, at higher psi.



No way to hook up a Big box compressor?

About $100.00
retiredyank
#160
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Posted: Thursday, April 05, 2018 - 08:10 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Tru-Color Paint is a solvent based paint. It contains a mixture of 7 different solvents so that it can be sprayed at 28-35 PSI with little or NO thinning. Our thinner , TCP-015, is made with the same blend of solvents used to manufacture the paint so that it will not hurt the intended finish or spray qualities of the paint. If Thinner is needed, we recommend no more than 15-20 % be added. In a fresh bottle of paint, you should not need anymore than that. In hot weather you can add 5-10 % Retarder, TCP-310, to slow down the evaporation rate.

We recommend that you do NOT use acetone to thin the Tru-Color Paint as it dries too fast and may cause the paint to blush. Acetone should only be used for cleaning up your air brush or dry brushes. It will clean everything nicely and you can do a 2nd or even a 3rd color within 30-45 minutes after the first color application.

The reason modelers think that Tru-Color Paint is an acetone based paint is because it is the most odorous and volatile of the solvents used in the mixture (although it is less than 10% of the mix) and by shipping regulations has to be listed as a component on the label because of its flammability.

Trust this helps.

Martin Cohen, PhD
Tru-Color Paint
P.O. Box 74524
Phoenix, AZ 85087-4524

714-488-9779



most desktop compressors (tank-less mostly) can't push 28-35PSI for long (definitely not for an entire painting session) before they shut off, if they can manage it all.



This is likely why I encountered clogging. The highest I went was 25psi. I have an old Badger compressor that pulsates, at higher psi.



No way to hook up a Big box compressor?

About $100.00



I'm not willing to buy a new compressor to use a line of paint.
retiredyank
#160
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Posted: Saturday, April 07, 2018 - 04:48 PM UTC
Revved up my compressor to 30psi. Tru-Color paint clogs. Cleaned ab. Reduced 1:1, with recommended thinner. Clog. Cleaned ab. Tried Mr. leveling thinner 1:1. Clog. Tried store brand lacquer thinner 1:1. Clog. Am I doing something wrong? The only other time I have encountered paint this stubborn was with house paint. I tried using a hairy stick, but the paint would not adhere.
metooshelah
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Posted: Sunday, April 08, 2018 - 02:14 AM UTC
1)what kind of compressor you use? if its a desktop one, its drops about 2-3 psi the moment you push the AB trigger. and in any case too high. i only go that high for the last spray of cleaning fluid when i clean my AB.
2) try mixing the paint in a pot or something and then transfer to the AB.
3) don't pay too much attention to 1:1 or ratios. try to get to consistency of milk, stir the paint WELL. once you have done that retrace your steps and find the ratio that WORKS FOR YOU
4) what nozzle are you using? maybe the nozzle is just too tight for the pigments to push out.
5) sounds like you are having a lot of problems with that certain paint type. if you have another, maybe just use that? the hobby isn't about frustration.
...
well, maybe not all of it
retiredyank
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Posted: Sunday, April 08, 2018 - 08:57 PM UTC
I'm to the point that I am offering free, with an eBay sale. It will spray, if I back the needle off. But, it just floods the surface. Really wish I could get it to work. However, frustration.
Armored76
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Posted: Wednesday, April 18, 2018 - 05:16 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I was finally able to break out some AK Real Color paints, this morning. They spray beautifully. They have almost no odor, being true acrylics.



Odorless lacquer-based paints!? Am I getting this right? That would be awesome!

Thanks for testing these!
Cristian