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Armor/AFV: IDF [Israeli Defense Forces]
Armor and AFVs of the IDF army from 1947-today.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Puma Batash with Doghouse and Nochri Dalet
GTDeath13
#481
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Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
Joined: June 12, 2015
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2018 - 09:19 AM GMT+7
First of all, I have to thank the people from Armorama from entrusting me with the Legend sets for this build log. I really appreciate it and their contribution is very important.

Introduction.
The Israeli Defense Force has the tendency to let nothing go to waste. So they came up with a number of uses for their Centurion tank hulls, after they were phased out from use. One of the vehicles is the Puma, which is an acronym for Poretz Mokshim Handasati (minefield break through vehicle), in use by the Combat Engineer Corps or Heil HaHandasa HaKravit. The Puma's role is to provide protection and fire support for the Engineers as they clear paths through minefields or during other frontline tasks. The latest version of the Puma is the Puma Batash, with improved armored modules and enhanced crew protection.
In the next posts I will try to post a build review of conversion set no. LF1360 and the Doghouse supplementary set no. 1364 using the HobbyBoss Puma kit with Nochri mine roller adapter set no LF1332 and Meng’s Nochri Dalet. I have not found photographic evidence of a Puma Batash with Doghouse and Nochri Dalet mine roller but it is feasible.

Starting with the HobbyBoss kit, I did not follow the instructions and assembled the basic parts of the hull, since I do not like assembling parts with lots of added details.






GTDeath13
#481
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2018 - 09:23 AM GMT+7
Then I assembled the wheels. There are two sets of wheels provided, one with three hole rims and one with five hole rims. Photos show vehicles with both types of wheels mounted. I decided to use the five hole rims since they are a later variant. Hobbyboss in their Puma kits offers something similar to the AFV Club Centurion kits, e.g. plastic rims and rubber like outer wheels, with part of the rim molded on. The good thing is that the material used can be glued with plastic cement, so I did glue the rims with the rubber parts. I applied plenty of glue, since styrene tends to shrink a little when plenty of glue is applied, because the rubber parts where a little wider than the rims. There is a seam left to be sanded down, but I will let the glue cure for a day so that I feel safer when sanding the wheels. In later kits based on Centurion hulls HobbyBoss offers plastic outer wheels.



The Puma suspension differs from the rest of the Centurion conversions (Nagmachon, Nakpadon etc), since it is of the Merkava 2 type. HobbyBoss must not like Merkavas, since their renditions of the suspensions is not the best. This applies to the Puma too, since the parts do not align very well and need some sanding and dry fitting. The suspension parts also do not mate well with the hull, leaving some minor gaps. Most of that will not be seen after the wheels and side skirts are glued to place, but care should be taken to properly align all the pieces. The wheel axles could be a little longer and the fit is far from perfect.




The idlers are really nice and HobbyBoss was careful to provide correct alignment between the inner and outer half. Take in mind that the outer wheel does not overlap with the inner wheel and you should be able to see the inner wheel detail between the outer wheel gaps. Some flash is present and careful cleaning is required. The sprockets come in two parts and are great. They fit tightly to the transmission covers.

GTDeath13
#481
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2018 - 09:26 AM GMT+7
I went ahead and assembled most parts of the lower hull and the suspension before gluing the wheels into place and adding the tracks. There is a plethora of return rollers on the vehicle, but they are very nicely detailed (and I can admit that they are better than the AFV Club counterparts.) Hobby Boss also offers a better engineered idler mount.
The rear hull details were also added, but I found that there is a noticeable gap left after adding parts D4 to the hull that needs to be filled. To sum up, I completed steps 1-6 of the kit instructions, after assembling the basic hull parts.









Stay tuned, the fun begins shortly...
philhendry
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Joined: December 26, 2009
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2018 - 10:43 AM GMT+7
It’s looking good so far! I’m going to follow along, since I have at least one Puma in my future (an ‘ordinary’ one, but with added Carpet and Mine Roller), and then if I survive that, a Batash like yours...

I’m glad to see you’re assembling the basic ‘box’ first - I too thought that the suggested sequence was a bit odd... Hopefully, I’ll be able to follow along after you with my build and profit from your experiences. I’m intending to replace the wheels though - I’m not a fan of ‘rubber’ tyres.
CMOT
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ARMORAMA
#406
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2018 - 10:45 AM GMT+7
It is good to see this kicking off and it looks clean so far.
ReluctantRenegade
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2018 - 08:57 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

I have not found photographic evidence of a Puma Batash with Doghouse and Nochri Dalet mine roller but it is feasible.



Looks like your application works out just fine...

I'll be following this one, have a soft-spot for IDF HAPCs.

GTDeath13
#481
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2018 - 09:48 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

It’s looking good so far! I’m going to follow along, since I have at least one Puma in my future (an ‘ordinary’ one, but with added Carpet and Mine Roller), and then if I survive that, a Batash like yours...

I’m glad to see you’re assembling the basic ‘box’ first - I too thought that the suggested sequence was a bit odd... Hopefully, I’ll be able to follow along after you with my build and profit from your experiences. I’m intending to replace the wheels though - I’m not a fan of ‘rubber’ tyres.



This strange assembly sequence looks even stranger on th eNagmachon kits. For instance, they suggest to mount all the cage armor on the Doghouse II version, and then install all the superstructure to vehicle.

You can try HobbyBoss aftermarket service and get the plastic tires from the later kits. Or the PanzerArt Centurion wheels, wich are a good choice regarding price/quality.

The Puma with Nochri and Carpet is another project. I have purchased all the goodies available from Legend, even two rocket sets, to fully load the launcher.
GTDeath13
#481
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2018 - 09:49 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

It is good to see this kicking off and it looks clean so far.

Many thanks
GTDeath13
#481
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2018 - 09:50 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text



Looks like your application works out just fine...

I'll be following this one, have a soft-spot for IDF HAPCs.




Many many thanks for the photo. I was a little worried that the configuration might not be correct.
philhendry
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2018 - 11:18 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text


Quoted Text



Looks like your application works out just fine...

I'll be following this one, have a soft-spot for IDF HAPCs.




Many many thanks for the photo. I was a little worried that the configuration might not be correct.



So, I guess the obvious question is - does it have a carpet launcher on the back?
ReluctantRenegade
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2018 - 11:49 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

So, I guess the obvious question is - does it have a carpet launcher on the back?



I don't think so. The mine-roller can be useful against IEDs too, so it makes sense on the 'Batash' version. The 'Carpet' system is for clearing military-grade minefields. Also, the 'doghouse' is quiet high, it probably wouldn't leave sufficient clearance for launching the rockets. Lastly, it's already highly specced: mine-roller, 'Doghouse' and 'Batash' kit; a 'Carpet' would be way over the top...
philhendry
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2018 - 11:59 PM GMT+7
That makes good sense.
GTDeath13
#481
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Posted: Monday, March 05, 2018 - 12:05 AM GMT+7
Plus the added weight that would make the vehicle very slow.
Keef1648
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Posted: Monday, March 05, 2018 - 12:54 AM GMT+7
The center seam around the circumference of the road wheels is correct and part of the manufacturing process on the real vehicle.

Many pictures show evidence of it even on badly chewed up rubber.


Keith
GTDeath13
#481
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Posted: Monday, March 05, 2018 - 01:01 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

The center seam around the circumference of the road wheels is correct and part of the manufacturing process on the real vehicle.

Many pictures show evidence of it even on badly chewed up rubber.


Keith

This is true but I am afraid that it shows too much after weathering and dusting, so I remove it on most of my builds.
ReluctantRenegade
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Posted: Monday, March 05, 2018 - 01:04 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

The center seam around the circumference of the road wheels is correct and part of the manufacturing process on the real vehicle.



That's correct. It's rubber residue from the vulcanization process.

GTDeath13
#481
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Posted: Monday, March 05, 2018 - 05:34 AM GMT+7
I am working on a list of things that have to be changed or not installed from the kit instructions to the Batash version. I will also do a list for the Doghouse too.

Meanwhile, the rubber whell parts proved difficult to sand, so a new blade made short work of the seam.




I decided to add reinforced Centurion tracks and not use he kit provided typical Centurion tracks. These tracks are available in the Nagmachon with Doghouse kits. I used Hushpuppy tracks on those builds, so had the reinforced tracks available. 102 links per side. You can see mixed tracks in photos, but I do not like mixing parts.






CMOT
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ARMORAMA
#406
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Posted: Monday, March 05, 2018 - 05:45 AM GMT+7
I will say you like getting a move on with your builds as I take longer just messing with the tracks.
Keef1648
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Posted: Monday, March 05, 2018 - 12:13 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

The center seam around the circumference of the road wheels is correct and part of the manufacturing process on the real vehicle.



That's correct. It's rubber residue from the vulcanization process.




Thank you for supplying the picture, I was docked points at an AMPS competition for leaving them on. The judges obviously thought it was a kit mold line and it should have been removed.

They should have erred on the side of the builder (me) and continuity (24 wheels) and assume nothing.

The seams are present on many different road wheels and vehicles from many different nations.

Keith
GTDeath13
#481
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Posted: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 - 08:29 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Thank you for supplying the picture, I was docked points at an AMPS competition for leaving them on. The judges obviously thought it was a kit mold line and it should have been removed.

They should have erred on the side of the builder (me) and continuity (24 wheels) and assume nothing.

The seams are present on many different road wheels and vehicles from many different nations.

Keith



Unfortunately when building a contest entry model, one has to take in mind that the judges are not acquainted to every detail and details that may be the cause of misjudgement or contradiction, such as the seam on the rubber, should be avoided. Just my 0.02$ as a contestant and a judge.
GTDeath13
#481
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Posted: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 - 08:53 AM GMT+7
I added the side fenders and the superstructure. Take care to remove the molded on alignment stubs for the kit side skirts on the sides of G16 and E2 and E1, since they will be replaced by the resin ones. Also if gluing the fenders in place, the aircleaners have to be glued first and then the other details on the fenders.

On step 8 of the instructions do not use parts D30, D42, D49 and the subassembly W-W. Part C30 can be used. Part F15 can be used, but a better photoetch part is supplied in the conversion set. Remove the hinge details on the upper side of part D33

On step 9 do not use part C50 (if adding the Doghouse) and G1. Remove the molded on details, except the fender bracket and its support, on Part G14 and use the details provided in the Legend set. Do not use part PE-7 on G14.








For the Doghouse addition remove the hatch lip on part G16 of the superstructure, plus the two bolt heads

ReluctantRenegade
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Posted: Tuesday, March 06, 2018 - 06:58 PM GMT+7
Great stuff, Nikos. Interesting that the Puma utilizes Merkava 2 suspension and road-wheels together with Shot drive sprockets and idler wheels...
Das_Abteilung
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Posted: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 - 07:10 AM GMT+7
Like another member above I also have all the parts for a "normal" Puma with roller and carpet in my stash. Just waiting for a second lifetime to get round to it ............

Stop making me want (even more) to do a Batash Doghouse too!!!! That's what, £120-150 in HobbyBoss and Legend parts before we start on AM tracks?? Oh my aching wallet.........!

And then someone will finally do a decent Urdan dozer blade which doesn't cost €50 and I'll want to hang that on the front too...
pod3105
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Posted: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 - 10:01 AM GMT+7
Fantastic progress- but I have to say if judges are getting it wrong then building to their prejudice/ignorance means the problem is perpetuated.