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Dioramas
Do you love dioramas & vignettes? We sure do.
Back in the game. King tiger on small base.
lespauljames
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Posted: Thursday, May 25, 2017 - 01:28 PM UTC
Hey all ! It's been a long time since I have showed my face on armorama. After a big gap and a newfound love for wingy things I decided to try my luck at armour again after a huge break. Hello to old faces and new.
This probably isn't accurate but hey ho..
The kit was dmls King tiger h with zimm. The base is my own. The figure is from alpine. All feedback and constructive critique is accepted in abundance. I want to improve and there are probably a few areas in which I can progress further. Otherwise , enjoy.





















jrutman
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Posted: Thursday, May 25, 2017 - 06:58 PM UTC
The mud and weathering look good and I am a fan of the understated chipping as well. The fig looks great !
The tanks' proximity to the edge of the ridge makes me cringe though. Those tanks,when buttoned up like that were always sliding into ditches and bomb craters because the drivers' vision was so reduced.
Nicely done!
J
Kevlar06
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Posted: Thursday, May 25, 2017 - 07:12 PM UTC
I think it's brilliant, the weathering is right on, and the figure is fabulous, I especially like the detail of the mouth and teeth-- nice job. But I have to agree with Jerry-- that close to the edge for a tanker would be a nail biter for sure. I also wonder at models which have the TC so fully exposed, but the driver and co-drivers hatches are closed-- not just this model, I see it all the time on other models. For the most part, unless bullets are flying, tankers would rather leave the hatches open for ventilation and visibility. Not picking on your terrific model here-- just making a comment about the tendency to depict drivers hatches closed. If I were that TC, I'd wake my driver up right away before we got wet!
VR, Russ
lespauljames
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Posted: Thursday, May 25, 2017 - 08:24 PM UTC
Jerry and Russ thankyou that's pretty valid feedback the base is a bit crammed that's true and I hadn't considered the consequences of driving fairly blind along such a narrow track. The only issue with hatches being open is having to slightly flesh out the interior or have a head poking out !
And no I don't mind having things commented on, it's what makes us improve as modellers and potentially helps add a bit more forethought when it comes to building !
Kevlar06
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Posted: Thursday, May 25, 2017 - 09:37 PM UTC
James,
No criticism on my part about the model-- it's fantastic, down to the fibers stuck in the tracks. My "out loud" comments about the driver's hatches on tanks being closed is intended as a comment on the vast majority of models I've seen in that condition, and intended as a discussion for the general modeling population. Having been an armor officer previously, I just know the "favored position" among crews is usually open, unless the weather is terrible or bullets are flying. As for filling those hatches, I have no doubt you'd be able to do expert justice to that-- welcome back by the way!
VR, Russ
jrutman
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Posted: Friday, May 26, 2017 - 12:49 AM UTC
I find most of my comments about models usually have nothing to do with how the model is built or painted or weathered,etc.
I usually comment of the practical aspects and history,etc.,to help bring the model or dio more "alive".
J
CReading
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Posted: Friday, May 26, 2017 - 04:18 AM UTC
James,
The King Tiger is very nice and I concur with all the above comments pertaining to it. I would like to know more about the base. What I can see is stunning. Since you have provided shots of the tiger w/o the base please favor us with shots of the base w/o the Tiger. Perhaps a short description on the various techniques used to come up with such a realistic finished product.

Cheers,
C.
wedgetail53
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Posted: Friday, May 26, 2017 - 05:24 AM UTC
G'day James

Looking great, particularly the base. I also like the restrained chipping - some of these vehicles only saw a couple of weeks' service, and simply didn't have time to get chipped. Some of the KTs in the Ardennes are good examples - delivered in November, knocked out three weeks later.

My only query would be the colour of the fire extinguisher. I believe (and stand to be corrected) that the external fire extinguishers were normally dark blue, dark green or dark grey, not red. It would also be improved by a label - Archer make them.

Regards

Rob

Dioramartin
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Posted: Friday, May 26, 2017 - 05:45 AM UTC
This is one very classy dio, James & I agree with the guys above. Exquisite weathering, implied action, ace scale-colour, who could ask for more? Well OK more dio base perhaps – can we have a view from the other side?

A few minor suggestions if you’re open to them – tool clasps/brackets should be same colour as surrounding area, some look to have the wood colouring (or is it rust?) on them e.g. the axe. Your tracks & mud are amongst the best I’ve ever seen; I often have an argument with myself about whether mud would completely cover the bright steel contact/rubbing points on each track tooth, drive-wheel teeth, bogie rims, track contact-points with the ground…and end up hinting at it in a few places. There’s no right or wrong answer but to my mind the more it looks like it’s made of metal rather than plastic, the better. Also there may be a case for brushing some varied dirt-shades of pastel dust on the upper surfaces, they’re a bit too “clean” compared to the lower areas & it would naturally settle in the zim – but less is more, as you’ve convincingly proved with the chipping.

I’ll pass on fire extinguisher colours – previous debates seem to conclude several are possible, but perhaps if you’d gone to the trouble of camouflaging the whole tank would you leave anything bright red showing?

Whatever, bravo it’s a beauty
jrutman
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Posted: Friday, May 26, 2017 - 06:53 PM UTC
I asked about the fire ext. on another site years ago and someone posted a pic from e bay showing real ones for sale and they were all shades of dunkle gelb!
It is like the old subject"what is the right color for field gray"? There is no "right" color for field gray !
J
lespauljames
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Posted: Saturday, May 27, 2017 - 12:17 PM UTC
Hello all !
Rob, I'll get on that fire extinguisher as the red I used wasn't covering well anyway and it does seem a bit silly in retrospect.
Tim ahh I'll fix the brackets I think that was a "light at the end of the tunnel, must finish" oversight on my part.
Tracks have always been a bugbear for me so I'm glad you like the result of these.
I paint them a mix of light grey and earth, to get a similar shade to some of the vehicles you get in museums ( bad reference to use seeing that they have been sitting around for years!) But that's just to get the oxidisation colour spot on.
Next up is to highlight the areas that would be metallic. So teeth and contact zones. I used Alclad steel on this.
When that's dry I washed the tracks with a burnt umber / ultramarine blue oil wash 70% Brown 30% blue.
Then grated two pastels down a light dusty colour and a earth colour and powderised them. Made a solution out of the pigments and white spirit and liberally applied.
Followed this with a dark wash. Then came the mud

Plaster of Paris, Yellow ochre oil paint, dark mud mig pigment and static grass I placed all of these on a plate, around the edges like a paint pallet with the plaster in the middle.
I added white spirit to the plaster and the pigment and oil. And added the static grass to taste. For drier sections I used more plaster and less oil and pigment. Then I liberally but carefully applied this to the running gear and likely "splash zones" of the vehicle.

Charles I'll write out a Sbs after breakfast 😁




lespauljames
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Posted: Saturday, May 27, 2017 - 01:03 PM UTC
Building the base.

What I used.
Foam core board for the elevation
Plaster of Paris for the terrain
Dried river bank clay for the boulders
Dried moss for foliage
A wire tree
Duluxe materials solid water
Noch static grass
Strong pva glue
Millet seeds

Paints
Daler rowney Cryla artists acrylic;
Vandyke brown
Lamp black

Games workshop;
Agrellan mud? I think.. it made a cracked texture

Tamiya;
Flat earth
Red Brown
Black
Dark yellow

Lifecolour;
Olivgrun

Oil paints Winsor and Newton Winton;
Titanium white
Burnt umber
Ultramarine blue
Chrome yellow hue
Sap green
Yellow ochre


Quick guide.

I drew out a few sketches during some quiet periods at work (I work in a local art supply shop so have access to a load of different supplies)

When happy with the dynamic of the sketches I sourced a suitable eased box frame. I wanted the extra height to make the build more imposing.

I cut the foamboard to shape as I stacked it up. I left each layer or two to dry whilst being weighted down by a book or other heavy objects.

For the earth I mixed up a plaster and paint mix with some static grass and millet seeds for texture.
I then liberally applied it with a pallet knife to the foamboard. When it was drying I applied boulders and detritus (see next paragraph) and textured certain areas with a stiff hog bristle brush. For verticals or slopes I tried to emulate how the soil would erode so I used vertical brushstrokes and stippling. I the pressed In the tiger to give it a location on the base.

Boulders.. this was a complete accidental discovery/ spur of the moment Choice . Last year I was making my own oil paint using local clay. After I strained them through a cloth to take out any silt I set the clay aside in tubs in the shed. When they dried they made little slabs of clay. To make the boulders and ground detritus I simply crumbled this clay over my diorama I a completely random manner apart from the larger rocks that were placed.

Plaster mix and tiger


This is the sprinkled clay. I made sure to crumble it down to tiny dust like particles and smaller and larger rocks.. the riverbed was the highest concentration .



I sprayed the base when dry with pva glue and a varnish to seal the delicate stones.
Then I airbrushed a number of tamiya earth and dust colours over the whole thing and began to paint the stoned and rocks in a number of different greys browns blacks and khakis.





I added the games workshop texture paint ( for dry earth cracking ) and washed the ground with oils ultramarine and burnt umber mix and a yellow ochre and titanium white mix.

Next up was the static grass. I have one of those puffer bottles that blows the static grass to attention. This was applied randomly and sprayed a dark earth and then a dark green and drybrushed various acrylic middle and light greens and later dry brushed with lighter oils.



.

Next up was the first layer of water. I tinted it with a little green



A little pastel dust and a wire tree was added inbetween resin layers. I texturused the water with a toothbrush but found it didn't hold its shape as well as I would have liked



The moss I found on a late night walk in the countryside. Some looked like ferns and some looked like little bushes and some like coarse grasses. I microwaved them to preserve them. Then glued some to the base. I later painted them with oils. Using various greens yellows and blues to get a good variety of shades









This last photo was taken when I hadn't painted the edging black.



Here are a few more shots in various lighting and angles







In retrospect I would have seated the tank on the base better. I hope this mini guide helps someone


Also just for fun a close up of the figure. You wouldn't believe that the black was done with tamiya paint. The other colours were Vallejo , lifecoloir and humbrol metalcote. The belt buckle was masked and sprayed Alclad steel mixed with duraluminium








Invincible
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Posted: Saturday, May 27, 2017 - 08:33 PM UTC
You can microwave plant matter to preserve it? Didn't know that, I'll have to remember that one!
jrutman
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Posted: Saturday, May 27, 2017 - 10:33 PM UTC
Thank you for making your commander an NCO !! But in the future you may want to include the white border to his shoulder straps running inside of the red border. This denotes his NCO rank while the red stripe denotes his arm of service.
J
Kevlar06
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Posted: Sunday, May 28, 2017 - 02:44 AM UTC
James-- you're not playing fair-- you've given us just enough to greatly admire this dio, which is superb by the way, but not enough to finish this thread yet-- how did you make the tree, especially the foliage? Also, not sure if anyone picked up on your statement that you make your own oils!?! Please tell us more about how and why you do that. Absolutely incredible!
VR, Russ
wedgetail53
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Posted: Sunday, May 28, 2017 - 04:00 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thank you for making your commander an NCO !! But in the future you may want to include the white border to his shoulder straps running inside of the red border. This denotes his NCO rank while the red stripe denotes his arm of service.
J



Ummm - I hate to be difficult, but the waffenfarbe (arm of service colour) is incorrect. red was for artillery. Panzer waffenfarbe were pink.

Regards

Rob
lespauljames
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Posted: Sunday, May 28, 2017 - 09:49 PM UTC
Thanks for your input guys.
Jcampkin, this one is a questionable technique I heard it somewhere once and tried it. A really old diorama I did I microwaved the plant life and it hasn't rotted yet about 6 years on.
Jerry thankyou I wouldn't want a regular Joe driving my tiger and it seemed logical. I'll bear in mind the white band for the future.
Rob I was just going by the box art for the figure. At this point it's hair splitting.

I'll write up about the tree and oils when I have a little more time Russ

Best
James
jrutman
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Posted: Sunday, May 28, 2017 - 10:04 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Thank you for making your commander an NCO !! But in the future you may want to include the white border to his shoulder straps running inside of the red border. This denotes his NCO rank while the red stripe denotes his arm of service.
J



Ummm - I hate to be difficult, but the waffenfarbe (arm of service colour) is incorrect. red was for artillery. Panzer waffenfarbe were pink.

Regards

Rob

You are correct of course but it doesn't take away from my main point about the NCO stripes.
J
Bravo36
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Posted: Sunday, May 28, 2017 - 11:51 PM UTC
Looks very good. The Tiger, the terrain and the commander. Just a couple of comments. The fire extinguishers had a distinct label. Adding it either as a decal or printed off of a decent computer printer will add a nice touch. The commander's peaked cap should have a white/silver braided cord (chin strap) above the bill, and Panzer crew pink piping along the top of the dark green band.

You need to build more outstanding armor! Forget those prissy flying things...

jrutman
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Posted: Monday, May 29, 2017 - 12:50 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looks very good. The Tiger, the terrain and the commander. Just a couple of comments. The fire extinguishers had a distinct label. Adding it either as a decal or printed off of a decent computer printer will add a nice touch. The commander's peaked cap should have a white/silver braided cord (chin strap) above the bill, and Panzer crew pink piping along the top of the dark green band.

You need to build more outstanding armor! Forget those prissy flying things...





I agree with the fire extinguisher label absolutely but the hat no. This is an NCO and is wearing the "old style officers' hat that was coveted by NCOs and officers while in the field for its' comfort and for showing the "old timer" status of the wearer. This being an NCO there would be no silver braid around the top of the cap nor would there be the braided cord going from side button to side button.
J
CReading
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Posted: Monday, May 29, 2017 - 01:24 AM UTC
James,

Thank you for the SBS on the base. I'm always curious how others go about putting a dio base together.
You achieve realism in both the King Tiger and the ground work on the base. Well done all around.

Cheers,
C.
lespauljames
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Posted: Tuesday, May 30, 2017 - 03:56 PM UTC
Thanks guys. I don't have any photos but I followed a few tutorials for my tree . Firstly I made a twisted wire armature making sure to keep it as natural looking as possible with different sized branches and a few kinks and coated it in a plaster/pva mix.

Once painted with various earth and Brown tones I got some wire wool, From a brillo pad, and streched it out into thin cloudy shapes. I glued these with superglue to the tree where foliage would grow. I then painted on a thick coat of pva glue and sprinkled mixed herbs all over making sure to get underneath and on the sides.

When dry I trimmed any excess wire wool that looked too wooly againstthe foliage and proceeded to spray the foliage with a very dark green underneath graduating to a very light yellow green. When the top colour was drying I dropped in some green variations by brush onto the leaves .

That's pretty much it for the tree.

Russ I work in an art shop in my town and paint in watercolour and oil (nether so much anymore since I got back into modelling) and got really anoraky into the make up of paint, pigments and their make up and properties. And I just decided one day I wanted to make some for myself. The clay made two different browns one similar to raw sienna and when it was heated one similar to burnt sienna. I also have made malachite green using the precious stone and powderising it by hand . As well as lead white, which is a tremendously long process involving acid time heat and lead . And lapis lazuili blue. The forerunner to French ultramarine.
It was good fun and I learned a lot.
J


Kevlar06
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Posted: Tuesday, May 30, 2017 - 09:38 PM UTC
James,
I do a lot of stuff myself, including scratchbuilding in brass, but I never thought of making my own paints! Do you use your oils for modeling? I'd love to know the process-- I imagine it would be great for earth tones to match specific environments. Is linseed oil the medium used?
VR, Russ
lespauljames
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Posted: Thursday, June 01, 2017 - 11:44 PM UTC
Russ, no the paint isn't nearly refined enough to use for model purposes, way too much grinding to get the pigment that small and yes linseed oil is the carrier. I'd love to get into more scratch building but I'm too slapdash
Kevlar06
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Posted: Friday, June 02, 2017 - 01:38 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Russ, no the paint isn't nearly refined enough to use for model purposes, way too much grinding to get the pigment that small and yes linseed oil is the carrier.



James, I suppose that would be the case with natural earth materials-- have you ever thought about making oils from some of the new "pigments" on the market? Would chalk ground on sandpaper work?
VR, Russ
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