login   |    register

Scale Modeling Sponsors

See Your Ad Here!

Dioramas
Do you love dioramas & vignettes? We sure do.
A Little Kindness Goes A Long Way.
YSUMark
Visit this Community
Alabama, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 35 posts
Armorama: 34 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 26, 2017 - 07:10 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Mark, I will be following this build I have this LAV in my wish list, curious on what you think of kit.



I am very happy with the kit. Here's a picture of me holding the top and bottom half of the LAV.

There's literally no gaps anywhere, so I'm hoping the kit falls together nicely.
69mudbone
Visit this Community
California, United States
Joined: April 26, 2016
KitMaker: 167 posts
Armorama: 131 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 26, 2017 - 05:26 AM UTC
Hi Mark, I will be following this build I have this LAV in my wish list, curious on what you think of kit.
YSUMark
Visit this Community
Alabama, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 35 posts
Armorama: 34 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 26, 2017 - 04:55 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Mark, this is really looking good, very clean painting for a "ship guy"...
The stream-crossing idea sounds interesting too. Looking for more.
Regards
Dave



Thanks.

Today I gave all the people a powder coat with pastels and gave the men their weapons.






Next it's time to start on the LAV.

I took pictures of all the kit's sprue if anyone's interested.
strongarden
Visit this Community
Florida, United States
Joined: May 14, 2012
KitMaker: 422 posts
Armorama: 324 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 23, 2017 - 01:24 PM UTC
Mark, this is really looking good, very clean painting for a "ship guy"...
The stream-crossing idea sounds interesting too. Looking for more.
Regards
Dave
YSUMark
Visit this Community
Alabama, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 35 posts
Armorama: 34 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 23, 2017 - 09:36 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looking better. The variations in color look good and add some life to them.



Thanks.

I wish you could see them in person. My camera is seriously washing out the colors.
HeavyArty
Visit this Community
Virginia, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 15,230 posts
Armorama: 11,828 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 23, 2017 - 09:08 AM UTC
Looking better. The variations in color look good and add some life to them.
YSUMark
Visit this Community
Alabama, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 35 posts
Armorama: 34 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 23, 2017 - 03:43 AM UTC
Got everyone touched up and flat coated the other day, but work got in the way of an update.
Here's one of the drivers flat coated. I re did the helmets to correct the colors of the ear pieces.

I will be adding a mic boom as suggested but I'll do this before they are put on display.

I made some small touch ups before I flat coated the men. I'm happy with how they all came out. Next I'm going to give them all a dusting with yellow pastels and I'll be done with the people.



I know this isn't part of this dio, but it came in the mail last night and I'm very excited. One of my good friends drove one of these while he was in the Marines. I'm going to do a stream crossing dio with this and give it to him for his birthday.
I've always been a ship guy, but I'm quickly starting to like doing armor dios.
YSUMark
Visit this Community
Alabama, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 35 posts
Armorama: 34 posts
Posted: Monday, March 20, 2017 - 08:54 PM UTC

Quoted Text

The figures look pretty monochromatic. To bring some more life to them, you could try varying the color on the ammo pouches and such.

The larger, square M16 ALICE magazine pouches with the grenade side pouches only come in green.


You could also do some of the non-ALICE ammo and other pouches in woodland camo to add variety, like on this Marine.


The smaller first aid pouches are usually green.


9mm ammo pouches come in a variety of colors.


Adding darker buttons and snaps will add some variety. You can also vary the color of the boots, you will notice they are not the same color as the sand of the uniforms.

Lastly, the CVC helmets on the armored crewmen should not be all sand. Only the hard shell is painted sand. The side pieces are green fabric and the earphones are black. You could add the boom mikes too.




Thanks for all the great info. I'll do some updating on the men sometime this week. I was painting the ammo pouches just brown and green. I did highlight all the snaps, but it doesn't show up in the pictures. I'm hoping it does when I flat coat everything, if not I'm going to re do them as well. I was referencing some pictures I found on line, but these pictures of the pouches are much better. With all the time I have invested in the men so far I don't mind going back and touching up things to make it better.

As for decals for the eyes, I think I'm going to keep practicing painting them. It's a challenge thing now.

Keep the critiques coming, I'll figure this non Navy modeling stuff out sooner or later.
vettejack
Visit this Community
Florida, United States
Joined: November 23, 2012
KitMaker: 617 posts
Armorama: 599 posts
Posted: Monday, March 20, 2017 - 12:39 PM UTC

Quoted Text

If I may make a suggestion, for easy, decent looking faces, you might do the following: Overall coat of basic skin tone; followed by a wash of darker skin tone (Vallejo fleshtone shade wash works great) not very heavy; Then dry brush the basic skin tone to blend the shadows; then add a touch of white to the basic skin tone and lightly dry brush some highlights. Lastly, paint eyes , lips, and hair. You are done. With practice this method gives you very decent heads without having to go to oils and all that. Simple and effective.



There is a decal sheet with different types/shapes/shades of eyes...along with other human features...but I can't recall who does that sheet. Worth researching/looking into to...will greatly enhance your facial features/expressions.
HeavyArty
Visit this Community
Virginia, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 15,230 posts
Armorama: 11,828 posts
Posted: Monday, March 20, 2017 - 12:14 PM UTC
The figures look pretty monochromatic. To bring some more life to them, you could try varying the color on the ammo pouches and such.

The larger, square M16 ALICE magazine pouches with the grenade side pouches only come in green.


You could also do some of the non-ALICE ammo and other pouches in woodland camo to add variety, like on this Marine.


The smaller first aid pouches are usually green.


9mm ammo pouches come in a variety of colors.


Adding darker buttons and snaps will add some variety. You can also vary the color of the boots, you will notice they are not the same color as the sand of the uniforms.

Lastly, the CVC helmets on the armored crewmen should not be all sand. Only the hard shell is painted sand. The side pieces are green fabric and the earphones are black. You could add the boom mikes too.

YSUMark
Visit this Community
Alabama, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 35 posts
Armorama: 34 posts
Posted: Monday, March 20, 2017 - 06:32 AM UTC
I thought those goggles were wrong, but didn't know.

I'll do the white paper thing, but that's the best my workbench has looked in months
kubisz
Visit this Community
Wojewodztwo Slaskie, Poland
Joined: February 18, 2007
KitMaker: 918 posts
Armorama: 917 posts
Posted: Monday, March 20, 2017 - 06:03 AM UTC
Mark, doing next photos please take a sheet of plain white paper (or may be in a different color, as long as it's monotone). No offense, but this mess behind photographed figures is very disturbing

The Iraqi faces look better.

I guess two of the soldiers have got their goggles upside down (this one next to the dog and the second one from the right - on the last photo).
YSUMark
Visit this Community
Alabama, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 35 posts
Armorama: 34 posts
Posted: Monday, March 20, 2017 - 05:01 AM UTC
Had a few hours today to do some touch up and give the soldiers a wash.









Now I'm going to have to let everything sit for a few days, then I can give everyone a flat coat and pastels.
zorrolobo
Visit this Community
Distrito Federal, Mexico
Joined: May 31, 2013
KitMaker: 1,076 posts
Armorama: 1,068 posts
Posted: Friday, March 17, 2017 - 05:39 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The way my hand shakes anymore I am forced to paint the eyes first. Next I do a base color coat for dark or light complexion. I then paint the hair. Next I do a quick clear coat so I don't mess up the eyes. Then I do the skin color. Another clear coat to protect that. Then I do an oil wash over the whole figure for highlighting and contrasts. Lastly a flat coat and a dusting with pastels. Not the best process, but it's the way I've done things for a while now. The bad thing is my eyes and hands just don't talk to each other as well as they use to.


for the eyes what I do is paint the face first; then paint eye sockets black; then do the clear coat. Then with white oil paint do two tiny spots on either side of eye socket and that looks usually pretty good. If they don't, I just clean the oil and start over. Sometimes I do need to retouch the iris/pupil with black to correct too much white. Good thing is that with the clear coat you can clean the oil paint as many times as you want and try again.
YSUMark
Visit this Community
Alabama, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 35 posts
Armorama: 34 posts
Posted: Friday, March 17, 2017 - 05:01 AM UTC

Quoted Text

If I may make a suggestion, for easy, decent looking faces, you might do the following: Overall coat of basic skin tone; followed by a wash of darker skin tone (Vallejo fleshtone shade wash works great) not very heavy; Then dry brush the basic skin tone to blend the shadows; then add a touch of white to the basic skin tone and lightly dry brush some highlights. Lastly, paint eyes , lips, and hair. You are done. With practice this method gives you very decent heads without having to go to oils and all that. Simple and effective.



The way my hand shakes anymore I am forced to paint the eyes first. Next I do a base color coat for dark or light complexion. I then paint the hair. Next I do a quick clear coat so I don't mess up the eyes. Then I do the skin color. Another clear coat to protect that. Then I do an oil wash over the whole figure for highlighting and contrasts. Lastly a flat coat and a dusting with pastels. Not the best process, but it's the way I've done things for a while now. The bad thing is my eyes and hands just don't talk to each other as well as they use to.
zorrolobo
Visit this Community
Distrito Federal, Mexico
Joined: May 31, 2013
KitMaker: 1,076 posts
Armorama: 1,068 posts
Posted: Friday, March 17, 2017 - 04:43 AM UTC
If I may make a suggestion, for easy, decent looking faces, you might do the following: Overall coat of basic skin tone; followed by a wash of darker skin tone (Vallejo fleshtone shade wash works great) not very heavy; Then dry brush the basic skin tone to blend the shadows; then add a touch of white to the basic skin tone and lightly dry brush some highlights. Lastly, paint eyes , lips, and hair. You are done. With practice this method gives you very decent heads without having to go to oils and all that. Simple and effective.
YSUMark
Visit this Community
Alabama, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 35 posts
Armorama: 34 posts
Posted: Friday, March 17, 2017 - 12:03 AM UTC
I did my facial wash this morning. Lightning the faces and taking the neon white out of the eyes. After that I mixed 1 drop of XF-15 Flat Flesh with 1 drop X-7 Red and highlighted the lips. Lastly I finished with the dog.


Then I arranged the figures to get an idea of the layout. It will be turned 90` counter clockwise with the LAV-25 in the back and the HUMVEE to the left of it.


Don't know why the family looks so dark in the picture, but if you look at the last picture you can see how much lighter they are.

Now everything needs to harden so I can give the family and the dog a clear coat and wash. Then I can start on the LAV and HUMVEE.
YSUMark
Visit this Community
Alabama, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 35 posts
Armorama: 34 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 16, 2017 - 01:07 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Isn't the color of the skin too dark?



Yes it is. That'll be addressed after I clear coat everything.
kubisz
Visit this Community
Wojewodztwo Slaskie, Poland
Joined: February 18, 2007
KitMaker: 918 posts
Armorama: 917 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 16, 2017 - 05:05 AM UTC
Isn't the color of the skin too dark?
YSUMark
Visit this Community
Alabama, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 35 posts
Armorama: 34 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 16, 2017 - 04:49 AM UTC
After work, the grand kids, and a bout with a cold, I had some time to get a little more done.
Here's the family. I'll let them dry overnight, and give them a clear coat tomorrow.


Once that drys I can give all the figures a wash and flat coat.
YSUMark
Visit this Community
Alabama, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 35 posts
Armorama: 34 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 14, 2017 - 11:08 AM UTC
Need some help here.

I'm strictly a Tamiya paint user, it's what I'm use to and what I can readily get around here. I've tried spraying MM, but never had good luck. Anyhow with that being said, I'm going to be starting the HUMVEE, and am not sure what color I can get away with. I was told XF-57 Buff, or XF-59 Desert Yellow.
To me it seems like neither one of them are light enough or yellow enough.
Is there a formula that I can use with the Tamiya paints that will get me into the acceptable category, or are the above colors good enough?

Thanks again for all the help.

YSUMark
Visit this Community
Alabama, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 35 posts
Armorama: 34 posts
Posted: Monday, March 13, 2017 - 11:29 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Welcome to large scale armor. You are progressing quickly. One of the first rules for figures is to never paint the whites of the eyes white. I find Testors tan works well. Testors light tan works well for lips. Another tip is to paint the entire eye black, first. Follow that, with a gloss coat. Then, apply the white. Remove the white paint from the area you wish to depict the iris/pupil.



Thanks for the tips, I'll have to give them a try. I use white because when I do my wash it darkens to a more acceptable color.
My hands aren't as steady anymore, and eyes are tough.
retiredyank
Visit this Community
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 10,396 posts
Armorama: 7,125 posts
Posted: Monday, March 13, 2017 - 01:06 AM UTC
Welcome to large scale armor. You are progressing quickly. One of the first rules for figures is to never paint the whites of the eyes white. I find Testors tan works well. Testors light tan works well for lips. Another tip is to paint the entire eye black, first. Follow that, with a gloss coat. Then, apply the white. Remove the white paint from the area you wish to depict the iris/pupil.
YSUMark
Visit this Community
Alabama, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 35 posts
Armorama: 34 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 12, 2017 - 11:31 PM UTC
A quick update on a lot of work.

I have the dog clear coated, and the children painted. This took most of last night to get done. I'll sleep tomorrow.

Again, thanks for looking.
YSUMark
Visit this Community
Alabama, United States
Joined: February 27, 2017
KitMaker: 35 posts
Armorama: 34 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 12, 2017 - 05:17 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Mark, what kind of sticky tape is on your clothespin? I use that blue tacky stuff on the top a pill bottle, however, I am open to new things. Thanks



I've never had any luck with the blue tacky stuff, so I use 3M foam tape that comes in a roll. I just cut off what I need and stick it to the clothespins. That way I have a handle and I just use toothpicks or cut skewers to balance them when I'm not working on them.

When I'm ready to mount them to the base I'll drill a hole in the foot and pin them. This worked great when I did the flight deck for my friend.