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Armor/AFV: IDF [Israeli Defense Forces]
Armor and AFVs of the IDF army from 1947-today.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Meng D9r with slat armour
Stormbringer
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Posted: Friday, October 14, 2016 - 11:24 PM UTC
While I'm waiting for bits for Achzarit and Nagmachon and to get the enthusiasm back for the Merkava's, here's something else for your delectation















the tracks look far too loose to me even though they have the recommended 43 links. Having said that they do go together very well.

Pete
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Posted: Friday, October 14, 2016 - 11:35 PM UTC

Quoted Text

the tracks look far too loose to me even though they have the recommended 43 links.



They look quiet OK to me...



Stormbringer
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Posted: Friday, October 14, 2016 - 11:36 PM UTC
Thanks Israel, I just tried taking a link out and they don't fit so 43 links it is.

Pete
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Posted: Friday, October 14, 2016 - 11:38 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks Israel, I just tried taking a link out and they don't fit so 43 links it is.

Pete



Yeah, once it's on a base, it should look just fine...

Stormbringer
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Posted: Friday, October 14, 2016 - 11:40 PM UTC
I wish they'd put these tracks in the first kit. I wouldn't have needed to buy Friuls then.

Pete
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Posted: Friday, October 14, 2016 - 11:48 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I wish they'd put these tracks in the first kit. I wouldn't have needed to buy Friuls then.

Pete



Good to know, since this beast is on my "still-to-do" list. I was gonna go for the one without the slat armor, but after what you said I'll get this one. It would make a nice companion to my "Nagamchon" which also has slat armor.
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Posted: Friday, October 14, 2016 - 11:51 PM UTC
Each link is 2 parts instead of 3 and they just click together.

Pete
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Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2016 - 08:33 PM UTC
Dennis,
If you want to tighten up the track tension and are not opposed to some scratch building, you can make the idler adjustable with telescoping tubing and a saw. The basic concept is to cut the idler free, put one section of the tubing in the idler and the other in the track roller assembly. It is not too hard and allows you to adjust the "sag" in the tracks.

John
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Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2016 - 09:25 PM UTC
As John says, you can make the track tension adjustable pretty easily. Here is how Marcus Nicholls explained it over at Missing-Links on his build.

simonn
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Posted: Monday, October 17, 2016 - 10:51 AM UTC
Thanks John/ Gino/ Marcus. That's a great tip for when I build this kit.

Simon
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Posted: Thursday, October 20, 2016 - 11:40 PM UTC
Thank you for the suggestions Guys, they're much appreciated.

Pete
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Posted: Wednesday, December 14, 2016 - 10:02 PM UTC
I had a look at a D6 recently, unfortunately in the dark, and the above method is how the track tensioning actually works.
I've laid my paws on some plastic tubing and while I'm off over Xmas will be having a crack at doing this.

Pete
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Posted: Saturday, December 24, 2016 - 12:54 AM UTC
Hi all
More progress on the Doobi. The tracks are too long with 43 links and look awful. Thanks to Gino and Marcus Nicholls I show you my version of the solution. First cut the idler and 1st pair of roadwheels from the chassis unit. file the end flat and glue on a piece of plastic tube,



Then file out the hole in the main bit to take the plastic tube







Pete
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Posted: Sunday, December 25, 2016 - 08:57 PM UTC
Folks
More progress on the Doobi





the newly tensioned tracks.





the blade



and the ripper

Pete
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Posted: Wednesday, December 28, 2016 - 12:06 AM UTC
A bit more progress on the Doobi








Pete
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Posted: Wednesday, December 28, 2016 - 08:53 PM UTC
More on the Doobi



Back of cab



Side of cab



Test fitting the bar armour.

Pete
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Posted: Friday, December 30, 2016 - 10:38 PM UTC
Here we have most of the mounting brackets for the bar armour fitted. It looks like a porcupine now. I've managed to break one of the brackets for the front armour.









Pete

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Posted: Saturday, December 31, 2016 - 01:58 PM UTC
Test fitting of bar armour









maiinly detail painting left to do.

Pete