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Improvised Ingenuity
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
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Posted: Thursday, March 02, 2017 - 02:08 AM UTC
Yes, Mark. Having built it I found out the hard way that epoxy is the only thing that holds the sections together.

Have fun with the Fruil. They are great tracks. Just make sure the holes for the wire go all the way through into the last section; sometimes they are blocked. I use a drill bit to test the depth and turn out any dags inside. Measure out the drill bit against the outside of the track piece, stopping just short of going all the way through. Wrap some tape around the end of the drill bit flush with the open track end, then when you push the drill bit in the tracks, you can see if you need to drill out or not and you know when it is deep enough.

I usually push the wire in the tracks then draw it back a smidgen (technical term) and snip off with cutters. Then you can push the wire all the way in without any wire hanging out the end. A drop of Cyano will hold the wire in place and seal the hole.

Looking forward to seeing progress when I get back home to Australia
d111298pw
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Delhi, India / भारत
Joined: September 22, 2016
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Posted: Wednesday, March 01, 2017 - 07:06 PM UTC
I appreciate all the positive comments.

The bridge sections are now assembled. It's actually a very heavy piece. Using epoxy to join the sections is definitely the way to go.





I've been waiting for this to clear Indian customs for the last 10 days. Never used these before. So, I'll take my time putting them together.



petbat
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Wednesday, March 01, 2017 - 12:50 AM UTC
Mark. Yes the wood looks fantastic. It will pop some life into the finished build... mine will be grey all over except the ammo rounds... so a 'leetle beet' of color in it.

Bob. Do you have shares in Evergreen??

Sorry to see you had to redo, but the result is looking really impressive.

Well time to put some pics where the mouth is... so to speak. These were taken on the weekend but haven't had much time to upload.

First up spent a while filling knock out marks on the inside of the ammo transport module.....then spent a day sanding them all down with a few touch ups. Had to be careful not to loose detail:

Ran out of putty and the LHS only had Tamiya Brand. It dries rock hard and takes a lot to remove.

Also made some progress on the winch assembly. This needed a lot of trimming of flash and for parts to fit. Also some filler needed in places.




Also fitted the front tow mounts. These are from Dragon as the Trumpeter ones left a lot to be desired. The etch ones they provide are over sized and the styrene ones are in two halves split where the locking pin runs through the holes on the mounts. I was over looking at puttying gaps and sanding the components again by this stage.


The image shows where the hull top has had some panels fitted too

Brain went into neutral when I was fitting the bolts to the drive sprocket mounting. I fit them as per the instructions, forgetting all the bolts are for the Ausf E... the Ausf D did not have so many. Have to trim them off and relocate them.

Off on holiday for a few weeks on Saturday, so not much to show for a while. Happy building to everyone in the meantime and see you soon.
bwiber
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Washington, United States
Joined: August 03, 2008
KitMaker: 433 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, February 28, 2017 - 03:55 AM UTC
Mark..... I second the comment on the wood. Definitely coming together nicely. Enjoying your build.

Tom..... Coming together nicely. Like your new parts.... They definitely are an improvement. Going to be another stunner.

As for my little Hippo.... well, it is coming together. I had a bit of an issue with the first crew cabin... Yep, on to No2...



The first one was to wide, which screwed up the way the front went together. The error wasn't in the drawings, rather it was in the reading of them. However, as you can see, the second one looks to be good... which is something of an improvement on my earlier efforts.




For some reason I like the way that the rear of the vehicle looks more than the sides... Oh well, it will come together all the way around eventually.



A bit of cleanup and on to detailing the hull...
Bob
ClaytonFromEllijay
#454
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Georgia, United States
Joined: July 10, 2016
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 09:38 PM UTC
Very nice, Mark, your wood looks good!
d111298pw
#456
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Delhi, India / भारत
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 05:47 PM UTC
Bridge sections are completed.









d111298pw
#456
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Delhi, India / भारत
Joined: September 22, 2016
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 05:03 PM UTC
Peter,
Great idea about using epoxy. Hadn't thought of that. Will use for the support rails as well. I was of two minds on what to do about the wood slats. Eventually, I decided to just flip a coin. Since everything is gray, having the wood color will add something to contrast it.
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 01:29 PM UTC
Even more impressive with you doing the Auto Cad work too Tom

A lot done there Mark. I suggest you use a strong epoxy glue on the Bridge beams as the joins are top an bottom and get a bit of stress on them.

I know the box art tells you to paint the slats and the turret cover timber, but I am fairly certain they were painted the same grey as everything else. Check the pic I posted earlier.

That would be a great opportunity to do a bit of real world 'chipping' practice on the wood, where paint would be worked off the edges etc. The track would not move against the slats and scrub them down (which some people think) but rather over them, but the cleat parts would likely clip the edges in places.

Then you can always put a load of branches on top
d111298pw
#456
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Delhi, India / भारत
Joined: September 22, 2016
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2017 - 09:28 AM UTC
I finally had some time to work on this project. All the major sub-assemblies are completed and painted. I still need to finish painting the decking. (never have been good at doing wood) Will then start putting it all together.

Chassis (will detail paint the final drive gearing before assembly)




Fenders:



Bridge support sections:


Support rails:


Gantry:


Support leg(?):


Deck Sections:
ClaytonFromEllijay
#454
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Georgia, United States
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Posted: Friday, February 24, 2017 - 04:57 AM UTC
Very impressive, Tom.
barkingdigger
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ARMORAMA
#013
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: June 20, 2008
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Posted: Friday, February 24, 2017 - 03:26 AM UTC
Hi Peter, yes I modelled it in AutoCAD. I did several different types for Leo 1A1-3s, 1A4s, and 1A5s - including the ring of periscope heads seen inside an open hatch.
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Friday, February 24, 2017 - 02:48 AM UTC
Very nice Tom.

Detail Modelling always comes with some guess work. Well no-one will argue what you done if they can't prove it!

The 3d ring looks fantastic. Did you do the CAD work?
barkingdigger
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ARMORAMA
#013
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, February 20, 2017 - 09:32 PM UTC
After seeing all the nifty work going on, I figured it was finally time I posted my own meagre progress! My Leopard "tractor" started as an Italeri Leo 1A2 kit, and to "tractorize" it I needed to remove the gun and add a few doo-dads. So starting with the turret I blanked off the holes for the gun and the commander's TRP periscope with some tread plate, borrowing an idea seen in photos of a sored artillery obs conversion. (The only pic of the tractor does not show these areas clearly so I'm having to guess!) Then I replaced the TC's periscopes and AA gun ring with 3D-printed ones I made at Shapeways.com, replaced the Loader's hatch spring too, and built the rest more or less OOB. Just behind the left rangefinder hood Italeri forgot to add the cap for the searchlight socket, and the brackets above & below to hold the caps when the cable is inserted, so I scratched these. The white clamp-like things on the turret side defy explanation, but were also easy enough to scratch.




Before I start the hull I need to address the engine-deck screen. I bought the Perfect Scale Modelbau PE set, painted the plastic kit fan, and will assemble the inner screen/fan to the underside of the deck before assembling the hull. I will slip some .005 sheet between the screen and hull to protect the area during painting, and pull it out through the turret ring after. (Pics of this to follow...)

ClaytonFromEllijay
#454
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Georgia, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, February 15, 2017 - 02:04 AM UTC
Well, post those bands on the Track Exchange, you never know who might want them
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Wednesday, February 15, 2017 - 12:52 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Steaming those band tracks might help...if that's what you prefered to use...



I avoid the vinyl tracks in kits if possible. I have an old Dragon Ausf E (one of the dodgy first releases) that I picked up cheap at a swap for spare parts (which I now have an abundance of, with all the Dragon Panzer IV based kits I have accumulated over the years). It has the magic tracks and I might go with them. Probably the later wider 40cm size, but shh

Alternate is to spring for Fruil... or just suck it up and see how the Trumpeter ones go.

I have just realised the kit, whilst calling out an Ausf D/E can only really be build OOB as a D as the wheel bump stops are the early kind, as are the hinges on the brake housing inspection hatches.

A couple of call out errors here. The two access hatches on the upper hull have the triangular panel pointing rearward. The Panzer IV radio operator hatches had this fitting pointing forward. Even though one hatch is behind the other in this vehicle, as the fitting is on opposite sides of the hatches in the kit, it is not depicting that the same hatch was used for both openings on this vehicle.

Also the Brake access hatch details are very flat. The hinge mount accross the face of the hatch should be tapered from the hinge down to the hatch face, but the kit ones are a flat 'bar'. The raised edge of the hatch is too smooth as well. I am going to try and cast the Tristar hatches for the hull and Brake inspection openings to correct the errors (but the hull access hatches have round ports in them, so I will have to remove that from the casting....

ClaytonFromEllijay
#454
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Georgia, United States
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Posted: Monday, February 13, 2017 - 03:20 AM UTC
Steaming those band tracks might help...if that's what you prefered to use...
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Monday, February 13, 2017 - 01:02 AM UTC

Quoted Text

You have a few parts there, Peter...



You only see half of the PE and you can barely see the track links - no 'Magic Tracks' here, just a whole mess of sprue attachment points to clean up....



Not that I usually use them, but after 10 years in the box, the vinyl ones are a bit distorted



The sprues are dated 2006, and I bought this new back then..... hard to credit it was that long ago.

Started this last night. Managed to lose 2 of the damper rubbers already.... and can't blame the carpet monster, it was a tiled floor. I expanded the 15 second rule to 15 minutes, and still no luck finding them. I blame Gremlins...
ClaytonFromEllijay
#454
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Georgia, United States
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Posted: Sunday, February 12, 2017 - 07:53 PM UTC
You have a few parts there, Peter...
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Sunday, February 12, 2017 - 03:00 PM UTC
KoSprueOne
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Myanmar
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Posted: Saturday, February 11, 2017 - 08:59 PM UTC
Yes, that BRV is going to be a unique model.




petbat
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Posted: Friday, February 10, 2017 - 12:18 AM UTC
Building OOB is probably best Mark... or you end up like me, with a shelf queen awaiting a spark of interest to go back and finish it

Looking good so far.

...and speaking of OOB (and not), some amazing work there Bob. progress is progress, no matter how "little". I know the time it takes to get one scratch built part made and fitted, and you feel like progress is at a snails pace. Going to be a great build in the end though.
bwiber
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Washington, United States
Joined: August 03, 2008
KitMaker: 433 posts
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Posted: Thursday, February 09, 2017 - 03:24 AM UTC
Mark, coming together nicely, and a lot faster than mine...

Speaking of that... a small update...



More boxes, and the sides of the rear deck are filled in. The holes in the rear deck have had plastic glued across them inside the hull for strength.



I was going to have a full length rear deck, but every time I would trim one side to fit the other side was off... so I decided to cut it off where the existing engine deck angles. Some sanding and it is flat all the way across. As for the holes in the original engine deck... they don't matter...



This is a paper pattern of the raised engine access hatch that still has to be made and installed.

After that, I move on to the crew cabin....

Later, Bob
KoSprueOne
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Myanmar
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Posted: Wednesday, February 08, 2017 - 07:16 AM UTC
Good start on the Bruckenleger, Mark.




d111298pw
#456
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Delhi, India / भारत
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Posted: Monday, February 06, 2017 - 08:22 PM UTC
Progress has started. The drivetrain is ready to be painted. Suspension is attached, and rest of the tub is finished. I won't bother putting in the interior, as it won't be visible when finished.









d111298pw
#456
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Delhi, India / भारत
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Posted: Sunday, February 05, 2017 - 11:38 AM UTC
Peter,
I plan to build it "out of box". I'm not much into scratchbuilding. I will need to get some Kaizen or Fruilmodel tracks to more easily replicate the tracks with the drive sprockets removed (as in the pic). I absolutely hate gluing individual track links and then trying to get a good fit. Of course, the vinyl tracks won't work for this situation either.