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World War II: Japan
Aircraft of Japan in WWII.
Hosted by Rowan Baylis
1/48 FineMolds Ka 14 prototype
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, November 04, 2016 - 09:32 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Joel - Thanks for the comprehensive reply. I will bring the Ka 14 and also the Hucks truck if there is a display only option. Photobucket was down for more than a day and I see they are up again- looking at the pics I just noticed I forgot the gooseneck pitot tube !
Richard



Richard,
I'm really quite rusty at the ins and outs of the IPMS contest trail, as the last time I entered one was 1975. So I've spent time reading the rules and trying to figure out what the going trends are these days. I was also surprised to see and read many of the names knew back then are still quite active. Lifers for sure.

And yeah, Photobucket was either hacked or something blew up yesterday. At 1st I thought that Windows 10 had an issue, so I spent a good 1/2 hour checking and came up with nothing. So I googled it, and sure enough their were posts about it. Such is life as we now know it on the net.

Joel

Joel
rdt1953
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Posted: Friday, November 04, 2016 - 03:24 PM UTC
Joel - Thanks for the comprehensive reply. I will bring the Ka 14 and also the Hucks truck if there is a display only option. Photobucket was down for more than a day and I see they are up again- looking at the pics I just noticed I forgot the gooseneck pitot tube !
Richard
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Posted: Thursday, November 03, 2016 - 10:58 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Brian -
Thanks yet again for the kind words. The model is pinned with two small lengths of brass wire inserted into holes drilled in mainwheels and base- pins/mainwheels and tailwheel all glued with white glue.

Joel-
Thank you as well - I do plan on bringing this to Mosquitocon.
As a newbie to the world of IPMS contests I hope to enter it in an OOB catagory if there is such- don't know how the base may affect that and I also understand that I need the kit instructions as well. I also plan on bringing the Hucks truck but I don't know if it can be judged as it placed in the 2016 Nats. I'm sure you are more knowlegeable than I on these matters so perhaps you or another reader can advise on these questions.

Cheers - Richard



Richard,
the Mosquitocom is hosted by the the Northern NJ IPMS club, and from what I've seen and read over the many years that they've held this event, they run it exactly as they would a IPMS regional contest.

As for whether or not you can enter a model that has placed at a previous Nationals, the answer is no. this is from the 2016 rules.

"Models that have won at an IPMS Regional 2 Regional contest prior to this show, or have won at any IPMS USA National will not be eligible. Models that have won at other Regions Regional shows as well at any other local show are eligible."

Bases have always been allowed as a vignette. So no secondary models nor figures as allowed. Here's their standard IPMS rule:

" Models may be displayed on a base of reasonable size. Bases will not be judged in any category except Diorama. Any entry which, by virtue of its base or setting, depicts a story or a theme must be entered in the Diorama category."

They don't have separate Out of the Box categories, but rather you enter in the models correct category, check off it's an out of the box entry as well, and the judges will also judge it for that award. Most categories have 1,2,3, & out of the box awards if it's a standard kit category. And yes you need the kit instructions.

Here's their rule on OOB entrants.
“Out of the Box” Award will be governed by standard IPMS rules: The entry must have been built from a commercially available kit, using parts from that kit only. Any paint finish, decals, or marking scheme may be used. No other added items are permitted. Kit instruction sheets must be displayed with model to qualify for the “Out of theBox” award."

Joel
Merlin
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Posted: Thursday, November 03, 2016 - 02:59 AM UTC
Hi Richard

That really does look great! I'm seriously jealous of that natural metal finish!

All the best

Rowan
rdt1953
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Posted: Thursday, November 03, 2016 - 02:51 AM UTC
Brian -
Thanks yet again for the kind words. The model is pinned with two small lengths of brass wire inserted into holes drilled in mainwheels and base- pins/mainwheels and tailwheel all glued with white glue.

Joel-
Thank you as well - I do plan on bringing this to Mosquitocon.
As a newbie to the world of IPMS contests I hope to enter it in an OOB catagory if there is such- don't know how the base may affect that and I also understand that I need the kit instructions as well. I also plan on bringing the Hucks truck but I don't know if it can be judged as it placed in the 2016 Nats. I'm sure you are more knowlegeable than I on these matters so perhaps you or another reader can advise on these questions.

Cheers - Richard
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Posted: Thursday, November 03, 2016 - 01:15 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Richard,
Impressive build for sure. Absolutely a 1st rate job of foiling. No one not following your build thread would ever think that this is your 1st attempt.

The base really compliments your build.

I sure hope that you're planning on bringing it to the Mosquitocom.

Joel



Yes, I'm sure that will win something. Plus, I just noticed the chocks under the wheels. Excellent.
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, November 03, 2016 - 12:19 AM UTC
Richard,
Impressive build for sure. Absolutely a 1st rate job of foiling. No one not following your build thread would ever think that this is your 1st attempt.

The base really compliments your build.

I sure hope that you're planning on bringing it to the Mosquitocom.

Joel
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Posted: Wednesday, November 02, 2016 - 11:04 PM UTC
Hey, it's a prototype, and it looks fantastic! I think the base is a great idea. Did you "hard wire" (fix) it to the base? Sounds like it.

Glad to see you back.

Brian
rdt1953
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Posted: Wednesday, November 02, 2016 - 10:57 PM UTC
Back from a great trip to the Pacific Northwest - Took in the Erickson Aircraft Collection in their brand new beautiful facility in Madras, Oregon.
Nearly all are air worthy and flown on a regular basis- see it if you can.

Ka 14 is nearly done. I have a few touch ups to do and the photos revealed a sliver of masking tape on the base that I missed.

I wound up mounting it on a permanent base to keep from having to handle the airframe. The foil is too fragile and smudges with fingerprints anytime you touch it so the base was the way to go.

While the markings are accurate, I find myself wishing the real aircraft had more- without tailcodes , unit insgnia, etc. it looks unfinished to me-
all in the eye of the beholder I suppose.














I think the last picture gives a hint as to why this aircraft exceeded all hopes in the airspeed department- Horikoshi and his team's efforts at reducing drag paid off in spades. The frontal area is largely reduced to cylinders and wing.
All in all this kit was a delight - excellent fit and detail , minimum parts count and the new experiences of foiling and Vallejo Metalics added to the fun- a tip of the hat here to Gaz for providing the inspiration and help along the way. Just the thing after six months effort on the Hucks truck.
I have one more component in the works for this project and will add it to this post if I am successful- till then thanks to all for looking in and following along. As always I welcome ALL input and comments.

Cheers ! Richard
rdt1953
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Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2016 - 05:23 AM UTC
Gary,Joel and Brian - thanks gents ! Will have more when I return from our holiday .
Thanks for looking - Cheers ! Richard
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Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2016 - 04:12 AM UTC
Wow! Beautiful progress.
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2016 - 03:56 AM UTC
Richard,
Impressive to say the least. Your NMF is 1st class. And there is nothing wrong with your pictures, as they look just fine to me.
Joel
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Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2016 - 02:59 AM UTC
Richard,
Nice work so far. Real metal definitely shows that no paint can truly mimic its qualities. Glad the wrap-around worked for you.

Gaz
rdt1953
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Posted: Sunday, October 16, 2016 - 01:38 AM UTC
Brief update - posting a couple of pics to show progress-

Foiling done- I redid trailing edges and one root fillet that was lifting at the trailing edge. The trailing edges were done with a complete wrap around with one piece to the first panel line on the upper and lower wing surfaces as per Gazs' suggestion. Much better indeed. Not much to the markings on this bird - six Hinomaru's - that's it. The kit instructions would have you place the fuselage Hinomaru too far forward- period photos and , oddly , the model on the side of the box show the correct location.



My apologies for the photo quality - this was a rush job as we are getting ready to go away for a bit and I wanted to get this up before leaving - more to follow when I return . Thanks for looking - Richard
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Posted: Saturday, October 08, 2016 - 02:08 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Eetu - Thanks for looking . This is my first use of the MetalColor line and so far I like them very much. It may be too early to tell about long term adhesion but I believe they will adhere very well indeed because of what I witnessed at the Vallejo tutorial/demo at the IPMS Nats . Both the gloss black surface primer and the finished MetalColor need to be lightly dusted on at first then built up a few minuits later after the first coat has tacked off. At the demo they masked with tape after a few minuits time and pulled the tape of with no paint coming off- while I don't advocate this it was very impressive and leads me to believe that adherence will not be an issue . I have only tried their clear coat - Metal Varnish is their name for it-
on a small test sample . It lays on beautifully but I think the finish looks better without it. It may be unavoidable if you are decaling . Hope this is of some help.

Cheers! Richard


Sound good! I think I need to check those metallics out.
rdt1953
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Posted: Friday, October 07, 2016 - 06:50 PM UTC
Brian - Thank you - I am very flattered by praise coming from you as it's obvious you're no slouch either when it comes to this hobby of ours. I fear the Ka 14 may look better in photos than in reality as the glitches in my foil job don't show . Gaz has nicely given me some pointers so I hope to be able to correct some of them to some extent.
Thanks for looking - Richard
rdt1953
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Posted: Friday, October 07, 2016 - 06:40 PM UTC
Eetu - Thanks for looking . This is my first use of the MetalColor line and so far I like them very much. It may be too early to tell about long term adhesion but I believe they will adhere very well indeed because of what I witnessed at the Vallejo tutorial/demo at the IPMS Nats . Both the gloss black surface primer and the finished MetalColor need to be lightly dusted on at first then built up a few minuits later after the first coat has tacked off. At the demo they masked with tape after a few minuits time and pulled the tape of with no paint coming off- while I don't advocate this it was very impressive and leads me to believe that adherence will not be an issue . I have only tried their clear coat - Metal Varnish is their name for it-
on a small test sample . It lays on beautifully but I think the finish looks better without it. It may be unavoidable if you are decaling . Hope this is of some help.

Cheers! Richard
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Posted: Friday, October 07, 2016 - 06:17 PM UTC
Do I need to add that you're a fantastic modeler? The two pieces you've show us - the truck starter and this - are just incredible. No false modesty here: I wish I had your talent.
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Posted: Friday, October 07, 2016 - 05:55 PM UTC
I have to second the opinions already expressed multiple times: really excellent job on the foiling!

Btw, how are the Vallejo MetalColor paints? The finish they make seems pretty marvelous! Do they adhere well? How well do they withstand handling? Also, can they be clear coated without marring the metal sheen too much?

Just asking becaus the finish looks excellent, but I have some negative memories of Vallejo's old metallics from the Model Air paint range. While those make a pretty good looking finish (though nowhere near as good as the new MetalColor), they didn't adhere that well and didn't withstand any kind of moisture, reliquifying very quickly, making it necessary to apply a cloar coat over them if any kind of subsequent treatment like washes were to be applied over them.
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Posted: Thursday, October 06, 2016 - 03:12 PM UTC
Hi Richard

The foiling looks excellent! It's a technique I've always promised myself I must master one day, but I've only ever tackled a few panels here and there, so I really respect Gary and the rest of you who achieve such fantastic results.

All the best

Rowan
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Posted: Thursday, October 06, 2016 - 12:22 PM UTC
Richard,
Clear coating your trailing edge won't stop it from being curled if you brush against it. I have two rules about edges, both trailing and leading. 1. Do them last. 2. Always wrap around the edge if you can.

Foil has some stretch that you can exploit with patient burnishing. Here is a mini-tutorial I've done in my N1K1 thread: foiling a curved wingtip ...nearer the bottom of the page.

I've only used a little BMF. I think the sheet I have looks a little pebbly when I burnish it down...plus, it's expensive! I don't mind wasting a ton of kitchen foil. For only 2-bucks a roll, you get a lot of coverage.

If you can find some good close-ups of your wing areas for that bird (I know...finding useful images of Japanese warplanes is hard!) you can use panel lines that the manufacturer may not have included.

Best Wishes,

Gaz
rdt1953
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Posted: Thursday, October 06, 2016 - 04:27 AM UTC
Gary - Thanks for the compliments and the pointers. Aside from the root areas the next problem for me is the trailing edges and the fragility of the foil here - even with the most careful handling I inevitably brush the trailing edge and lift/tear the foil ap tiny bit . With the benefit of hind site perhaps I should have lapped the upper surface foil down and around the traililing edges in a " hem" fashion. I assume a clear coat will help this situation but I am reluctant to do so because the bare aluminum looks so good . Any suggestions ? Thanks - Richard
rdt1953
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Posted: Thursday, October 06, 2016 - 04:17 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Richard,
The foiling looks mighty impressive. You've certainly joined that exclusive club with Gary.
Joel


Joel - flattery will get you everywhere! If I have joined Gary's club I am very much a probationary candidate -
Thanks - Richard
GazzaS
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Posted: Wednesday, October 05, 2016 - 11:04 PM UTC
Richard,
She's looking quite nice! Wing roots are always the hardest area on a plane, so I always do those first and work my way outward.

Gaz
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Posted: Wednesday, October 05, 2016 - 09:50 PM UTC
Richard,
The foiling looks mighty impressive. You've certainly joined that exclusive club with Gary.
Joel