Thanks to Darren(CMOT) and Jim for the oppertunity to build another review model for the web sight.

Today, we have in the making the Ryefield Models M1A1 TUSK - M1A2 SEP TUSK I/II 3 in 1 kit. First impressions when I opened up the box was "WOW!" Looking at all the parts kind of reminds me of a Dragon AIM kit combined with a Tamiya M1A2 TUSK kit. At first quick glimpse, there was no flash evident. The usual mold lines could be seen, but very faint. Another quick glance at all the parts reveals that not only can the M1A1 TUSK be built, but a plain M1A1 be built by providing the regular side skirts along witht the TUSk side skirts. Surprisingly, 3 different types of APU's are provided, the one under the rear deck, the one seen in the bustle rack, and the one that hangs off the right rear as seen on M1A1's during Desert Storm. A "HOFFMAN" device is also included. More, if any, extra's inn the kit will be noted as I progress through the instructions.

Now on to the build:
First step was to choose what vehicle I was going to build. There are three vehicles that can be built out of the kit, aM1A1 TUSK, M1A2 SEP TUSK I, and a M1A2 SEP TUSK II. I chose the M1A1 TUSK painted in NATO 3 tone camo with tan TUSK parts. I like how the tan parts look against the NATO camouflage.


While looking over the marking guide and doing some research on vehicles of 1st Battalion, 35th Armor Regiment, I noticed that either the kit decal bumper number or bore evacuator name is incorrect. Thanks to Gino(HeavyArty) and his pictures of the real thing, I found out that the real bumper number for "Bad Blessing" should be "B24." Other than picture reference, the way you can tell that either the bumper number or the barrel name is incorrect, that the first letter in the barrel name is the same as the letter in the bumper number. Therfore, since the barrel name is "Bad Blessing" therefore the bumper number should be "B-??."

Here is the real A24 but you can't see what the barrel name is but the assumption be a name that begins with the letter "A."


By blowing up this picture, you can see "B24" on the water cans and what seems to be the barrel name "BAD BLESSING."


First step in the instructions is not a number step but a letter step, "STEP A." This is the barrel for all 3 variants. Little clean up was needed on the parts. Just the faint seem line along the barrel pieces needed some light sanding. The fit on all the pieces was spot on and no filling was needed. The breech is not complete. This is one of the many hints that an interior will be included in another production and the rest of the breech will be included. Fit of the completed barrel assembly to the lower upper hull was nice. There was no problem placing the barrel in it's spot, nor did it snag against the bottom upper hull and moved freely.


















I provided the real measurments of the real thing for the Dragon AIM kit/ So I used the same measurements and compared them to this kit and so far,it is spot on.


I wanted to put a couple of the tracks together to see how they went together. I did find the first correction to the instructions. The track pads are numbered backwards


Until the next post, questions and critiques are always welcomed.

this looks like it's going to be an interesting build.

Pete, I started RFM's Abrams last week, building the same variant. From what googling I have done so far I would disagree on B24 being Bad Blessing and suggest it is Bad Influence (as the name on your file suggests). If you check the images in Gino's (HeavyArty) thread (see below) you will notice the fume extractor where the vehicle name is written is all black, bad influence is green with black across the top. One of his (Gino's) images shows an item with the number 23 welded onto it, this may be Bad Blessings actual number.

http://armorama.co.uk/forums/171590

I didn't know the issue with the track numbering but considering some of the other numbering errors I am not surprised)

Always good to have a second set of eyes Andrew. At least we both agree that A24 and "Bad Blessing" are two different vehicles.

I like how B24 looks with that stretcher on the extended bustle rack, but since I am doing this build for the sight I'm going with what you said and number it B23 instead of trying to mess with the barrel name. Easy fix by just covering up the bumper numbers with tape, like in the picture. I might go with B24, will decide when it comes time to paint.

I'm hoping that new set of Modern US Tankers from Miniart hit the shelves soon. I think they would look good in the hatch of this beast.

Pete, I was going to build this one with hatches open as a change so knowing some possible figures are coming is welcome news thanks.

Here is a picture of the box art Andrew:

Thanks Pete! This will help me to pick up my M1 Tusk kit from Tamiya, Meng, RFM and Academy.

Jay

Looks like you are off to a good start Pete. Glad I could indirectly help you out with the research.

Has anyone seen or built the Meng Abrams? I'm curious as to which is the best. I may just get this one. It looks great

Ken, word out is the Meng kit may have the upperhand but it is worth waiting for the new Academy kit(Hobby Easy has it coming out in the next week)as a third option

Academy huh?...better than Meng and Ryefield. How do I go about getting the wife to buy all 3. She's already giving me the squirrely eyed look

Same here! Haha

Do you have a link to that? I looked an can't find it.

Discussed Here
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/245826&ord=&page=1

Hobby Easy show release date 30-4, though this may not be 100% accurate as I have seen them push release date back more than once.

Here's the thread from Armorama. https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/245826#2076104

A Korean modeler has been doing an extensive build blog: http://blog.naver.com/afvmodeler

I am sure that there will be a comparison review of all three kits in the near future.

Looking at the blog on Naver the wheel spacing issue Pawel pointed out on the Academy kit is really evident. It really is going to come down to personal preference. All Three kits have pluses and minuses.

Regards,

Eric

Highly unlikely. Reliable Korean sources give the release date as May - June, so probably we still need to wait a couple of weeks for it. The builds on Korean websites show test shots, not production kits.

After taking a closer look at my references and the Academy kit photos I would say that their mistake is in fact quite small - probably no more than 1.5 mm, but it is in such a place that it is noticeable. It also seems relatively easy to fix, thanks to the multipart lower hull in the Academy kit (three straight razor saw cuts, some filling and sanding).

Or five if you include Tamiya Tusk kit and Dragon+Legend set. Yes, something tells me it can happen...

Nice, keen to watch this build

I was thinking about cutting road wheel arms but your option sounds a bit better for structural integrity for the model.

John

Here is a comparison of the A2 cupola/TC station between RFM, Tamiya, and Dragon:



And the real thing:



As you can see, the RFM kit is way off in the area of the TC cupola meeting the hull. In my opinion, I think the Dragon SEP kit is spot on. I'm glad I went with building the A1 TUSk instead of the A2 SEP w/TUSK.

DAMN IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I just spent the past 30 to 40 minutes writing another update and I don't know why I did it, but I hit the back button and it erased all I wrote and image addresses I added.

Be back in a couple of hours with the update on the build. Going to write it in Word and save it and past so I don't do a stupid thing again.

Don't know what up with the reference images from kits but they look like they have been put through a fisheye lens or something. Anywho, I can see 1 or 2 issues with the commanders hatch on the RFM kit depending on what version you build. If you are building the A1 from what I can tell the only issue (so far) the ring/area where the hatch joins the hull is to wide, maybe some careful reshaping can fix this or leave it and see if it's covered up by the TUSK add-ons. If building the A2 you have the above issue and a missing shape of the hatch itself. The image Pete supplied of a real A2 hatch shows a lip under the gearing. The RFM kit (see below) is missing this but a with little bit of work one could make this out of sheet plastic (ideally in perfect world we wouldn't have to but hey, the world aint perfect)

Really good job ! I will follow this build with interest. Just bought one and begin the Meng's kit !