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Soviet 2S7 'Pion' Self-Propelled Gun,
The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Tuesday, January 19, 2016 - 10:59 AM UTC
I signed up to build another kit review...( it forces me to build the boring parts :-) )

this will be my build:
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/review/11937

I think learning how to post a photo again will be the hardest first step...


If anyone has advice or questions about the model...
Just let me know

....~Chris




Our Thanks to Stevens International!
This item was provided by them for the purpose of having it reviewed on this KitMaker Network site.
The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Tuesday, January 19, 2016 - 11:52 AM UTC
I got the box in the mail...laid it all out...wanted to see 1000+ pieces all laid out..LOL

 photo 2016-01-18 - One_Thousad_ pieces_zps3v1tetk4.jpg
The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Wednesday, January 20, 2016 - 06:27 AM UTC
First; I dug through the internet hoping to see if there was any advice about the build. Because the kit was recently released and has so many pieces, there was not much to find. So I started with step one that is on the third page of the instruction booklet ( 28 pages; 35 steps total )

I felt making the wheeled ammunitions carrier - first, was a small test to see if a modeler should even start this behemoth. A monster starting with 1/35 PE bicycle spokes.

 photo 2016-01-19 - 2S7 step 01a_zps2kiexydf.jpg

A bit of struggle to find the keys on the inner hubs.

 photo 2016-01-19 - 2S7 step 01aa_zpsjq0a2xvu.jpg

But it all came together nicely.

 photo 2016-01-19 - 2S7 step 01b_zpsmv3aaaam.jpg

I am going to have to sand the seams on the shells.

Thanks for watching
zedhol
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Posted: Wednesday, January 20, 2016 - 06:52 AM UTC
I am making this kit for the 500+ campaign. Will follow this and we can exchange tips.
The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Wednesday, January 20, 2016 - 07:19 AM UTC
Excellent

I'm looking at step 2, and ( And as always ) I'm flummoxed by a 1/35th tank build with un-movable wheels.

When I scour all the photos I've found: it seems to me the pipes pre-embossed on part C-15 'should' be as thick AND as distinguishable as the handles on the rear doors.

I found One partial start of a build...showing this distinction.
http://stankmodels.blogspot.com/2015/02/2s7-m-pion.html

http://stankmodels.blogspot.com/2015/02/2s7-m-pion-part-ii.html

I really liked his remake of the Pipes on the rear of the tank.

I'm torn between fixing these two issues or just slapping it together just to finish the build review in a timely manner.
The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Wednesday, January 20, 2016 - 01:30 PM UTC
Trimming some parts off the sprues and dry fitting ...I might be able to finagle working tank wheels!

So cool! might spring for Friulmodel Tracks

problem is the T-80 set from Friul contains 180

and the 2S7 instructions require 186
- dang...do I spend another $40 for 6 tracks?
Buckeyes57
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Posted: Wednesday, January 20, 2016 - 08:16 PM UTC
I bought the Spade Ace version for my 2S7. For about the same cost as one set of Friul.

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/970896-spade-ace-models-sat-35011a-2s7-metal-tracks

PvtMutt
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Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2016 - 12:27 AM UTC
You'll find another build blog of this kit here if interested:

http://www.militarymodelling.com/forums/postings.asp?th=112803&p=1

Tony lee
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Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2016 - 01:37 AM UTC
I've read this thread so far and have a problem. To me, there's a difference in a personal build and one done for review. When you're building a kit for review it should be constructed out of the box. There should be no scratch work done to it, or added parts installed. Shortcomings and faults should be noted, of course, but the purpose of a review is examine the kit, as is, from the manufacturer. The end result should show what the actual model looks like, otherwise it's like showing a Big Mac pictured in an ad and saying that it'll look like that at the store. We all know how likely that is.
The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2016 - 10:58 AM UTC
I'm a bit short synapsed so I'll answer questions in reverse order...lol

1) Bob [AFVfan]: I take your comment to heart...((My first review was done with out add ons. https://armorama.kitmaker.net/review/10544 ))although if I find the tracks too frustrating to build as per the instructions..[ie. No homemade jigs] I will spell my frustrations clearly. The Panda tracks I tried to build for that review, were just plain stupid; and if it had not been a review build it would have been circular filed for a garage sale. [Personally I have built 3 Sets of Meng tracks in one evening and prefered their simple complexity, to guessing and glueing.]

2) Tony: My plinth has been shortened. I thought I was a pretty good internet gopher...but I totally missed that build log! Great looking Too! I'm going to read it to get a foreshadowing... (-:
It looks like I'll make this one in "firing position" to complement your build.

3) Scott I sent you a private message.

Tonight I'm going to try and signup for Photobucket...try to figure out how to switch out the photos I've posted from my KitMaker gallery.... (running out of space for photos and those slots are better suited to zips of word docs to share info such as research URLs)

~Back to more building ...asap

The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2016 - 02:18 PM UTC
So photobucket went fairly painless,



DRY fit: small arrow =small gap
.........Large arrow = design flaw
 photo 2016-01-22 2S7 step 03_zpsnkb0utt7.jpg


Gotta pick one or the other:
 photo 2016-01-22 2S7 step 04A-A_zpsliccu2na.jpg


My first disappointment. might cover ejector marks with seated personnel?
 photo 2016-01-23 2S7 step 4_zps62x5dlvf.jpg


These were so delicate and went together easier than I thought.
 photo 2016-01-23  2S7 step 04E-E_zps437kkpuc.jpg


The only problem so far is the tiny too short gear shift lever.
 photo 2016-01-24  2S7 step 06_zpslvl2eqip.jpg

So steps 1-6 went really well...in fact most of the sub-assemblies where such a good fit I thought of calling it a SnapTite ,,,,lol

the most frustrating pieces so far are the F5 'hinges' on page 6 ..they were difficult only because they are SO small.

If there are complaints out there: why can't they make it in plastic rather than PE....this Is your kit! The chairs look to be able to be made fully foldable with minor changes.


Last bit of update....I'm really enjoying this kit!
PvtMutt
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Posted: Monday, January 25, 2016 - 04:51 PM UTC
Fun, Yes it was


Tony lee
The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Wednesday, February 03, 2016 - 12:14 PM UTC
So I'm very near finishing the 2S7 model, and it will take some time to gather my thoughts...

Tonight I gopher-ed ( http://google.com.ua/ ) and found this Very interesting site. ( vehicles by number! )

I will gladly accept donations of a beer if you get as much enjoyment out of the site as I did

http://lostarmour.info/vsu/pion/

http://lostarmour.info/vsu/bmp-1/
http://lostarmour.info/vsu/bmp-2/
http://lostarmour.info/vsu/bmp-3/

http://lostarmour.info/vsu/btr-3/
http://lostarmour.info/vsu/btr-4/
http://lostarmour.info/vsu/btr-60/
http://lostarmour.info/vsu/btr-70/
http://lostarmour.info/vsu/btr-80/ from 001 to 640
The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Sunday, February 14, 2016 - 08:09 AM UTC
Small taste of what's to follow....
 photo 100 - 2S7_Page_20_Step-25A__zpsvqqduluc.jpg

CHEERS

The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Monday, February 15, 2016 - 11:55 AM UTC
INTRODUCTION:

The 2S7 Pion (Peony – most Self-Propelled guns are named after trees or flowers, not unlike America's "Peace Keeper" missiles :-) , is a huge weapon and has the longest range of fire compared with any other modern field artillery unit. It is also the largest self-propelled artillery gun in the world . While it is only partially armored and weighs 50.7tons/46-mt, it is 43' 3”/12.8 ~13.20-meters long (the hull is 10.5 meters alone), 11' 1” /3.5~3.38-meters wide and 9' 10”/3~3.5 meters high. That roughly translates into 366mm x 100 mm x 100 mm in 1/35 scale, the 2A44 itself is huge – barrel length is 11240 mm (321 mm in scale).
The design of the 2S7 gained momentum in response to The 6 Day War of 1967 to counter the success that the Israelis were having using their American made 175-mm M107s in the counter battery fire versus the Egyptian forces in the fight over the Suez Canal. New objectives were, to build a gun that would be able to outrange the enemy artillery and engage them with both conventional, as well as the nuclear and chemical rounds. The new weapon, dubbed Article 216, while under preliminary development by the end of 1967, was developed in two different directions:
• Article 216sp1 used components of the T-10 heavy tank and a V-2-type diesel engine;
• Article 216sp2 used the driveline of the T-72 tank but with the running gear of the T-80 series tanks (individual, torsion with stopping hydro absorbers); though with 7 road wheel stations and six track-return rollers (that support the inside of the track only) for the longer hull. Chief designer was N. S. Popov, who was the head of KB-3, the descendent of the Kotin design bureau in Leningrad, and who was also developing the T-80 series tanks at the same time.
Both variants were combined with the massive 2A44 203mm gun, designed by the famous "Barrikady" factory in Volgograd (Stalingrad.) The later variant, Article 216sp2, won out and was fully developed with it's V-46-1, the V-type 12-cylinder diesel engine completed with turbocharger; reaching a maximum power of 750 hp. The official designation SO-203(2S7) is its GRAU designation. It was identified for the first time in 1975 in the Soviet army and so was called M-1975 by NATO (the 2S4 Tyulpan also received the M-1975 designation). One brigade of 72 of these guns became part of the 34th Artillery Division in GSFG during the late 70's. Later, this chassis was used to develop and improve a number of other heavy vehicles.
The cabin protrudes forward creating counterweight for the main gun. This fully enclosed crew compartment has seats for the commander, driver and two other crew members. The commander and driver are each provided with a circular roof hatch and in front of these are periscopes for forward observation. In front of them are windows that, when in a combat area, are covered by an armored shutter hinged at the top. In addition, there is a single forward-facing periscope in the forward part of the roof between the commander and driver. The torsion bar suspension has seven dual rubber-tired road wheels either side with the drive sprocket at the front and the idler at the rear(lowered to the ground in combat order),... looking like a backwards tank hull. Along either side of the hull are a series of large stowage boxes, along with the 203-mm gun, which is not fitted with a fume extractor or a muzzle brake, being mounted at the rear. One piston of the recoil brake and recuperator is located on the gun with the other two pistons beneath it and these limit recoil to a maximum of 140cm/4.6ft. The 2A44, when traveling is held in position by a manually operated lock mounted on top of the cab. Mounted at the very rear of the 2S7 is a large hydraulically operated spade that is lowered to the ground before firing commences. This spade digs in the ground approximately 700mm/28in and provides good fire stability. Standard equipment includes tank internal communication device, radio equipment, fire prevention equipment, an NBC system of the overpressure type and night vision equipment.
2S7 had its advantages and disadvantages.

• The advantages were long range ( 23.3-miles/37.5-km with the regular HE round, while the nuclear round had a minimum of 11.2-miles/18-km, and a maximum range of 18.6-miles/30-km.The RAP round could go all the way to 34.2-miles/55-km). with this reach it had the ability to deploy and leave the firing position in short order; that upon inception, made it impervious to counter battery fire. Its fairly high speed (31mph /50 Km/h ) and good cross country mobility, allowed it to keep up with armored columns.
• The disadvantages were very high cost and large size (Length 13100M Width 3380m Height 3000m ), absence of the turret and limited traverse ( Elevation range is between 0 degrees and 60 degrees and traverse range is 30 degrees (only 15 degrees to each side)., only carring 4 rounds for immediate use, as well as low rate of fire; 1.5-round per minute. This was later improved to 2.5-rounds per minute on the 257M.

If you know of any changes or updates to this information ...Please let me know.

~Cheers
The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Monday, February 15, 2016 - 11:59 AM UTC
 photo 001 - 2S7_Box_Art_zps00uetceq.jpg

CONTENTS:

18 Sprues of grey plastic parts
4 Sprues of Brown plastic parts (tracks)
3 Separate hull pieces
2 Sprues of clear plastic
1 Fret of Photo-etched Parts
1 Length of Metal cable
2 Small rubber wheels
1 Decal sheet
28 Page Instruction booklet (35 steps)
1 color paint reference page


 photo 002 - 2S7_Page_02_Parts_Count_zpsbyk9prbd.jpg

 photo 003 - 2S7_Page_02_Parts_Page_zpswtoxowtd.jpg

~Cheers
The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Monday, February 15, 2016 - 12:11 PM UTC
REVIEW:

ArmoramA references:
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/review/11937
https://youtu.be/o29GRjZWZC0

Here is where the review is going to end up:
 photo 005 - 2S7_Page_02_Parts_PageFinishedd_zpsfex6gmrh.jpg


How to start a review of a recently rolled out kit that already has two very good builds already posted. I wanted to wait until Tony posted his finished build so I could limit redundancy. ( Hey Tony; age before beauty...lol)

Also see:Leon: http://modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/thread/10277/russian-2s7m-flat-coat-finished?page=1
Tony: http://www.militarymodelling.com/forums/postings.asp?th=112803&p=1
and: http://modelerssocialclub.proboards.com/thread/10741/trumpeter-soviet-2s7-203mm-sph

Step One: begins unlike any other tank build I've seen, with the construction of a 'bicycle wheel like' ammunition carrier. As I later got to Step 20's 'birdcage' I guessed that the small ammunition carrier, was possibly a small test to see if the purchaser is truly capable of the complications and details of this build.

 photo 006 - 2S7_Page_02_Parts_Tools_zpswdlxatb4.jpg

 photo 007 - 2S7_Page_03_Step-00_Photo00_zpsj7betrdw.jpg

 photo 008 - 2S7_Page_03_Step-01_zpsadpatg11.jpg

 photo 009 - 2S7_Page_03_Step-01_Photo01_zpszsbvblc4.jpg

 photo 010 - 2S7_Page_03_Step-01_Photo03_zpsaw2vpmna.jpg

 photo 011 - 2S7_Page_03_Step-02_zpsl6tbuiiq.jpg

 photo 012 - 2S7_Page_03_Step-02_Photo01_zpsqlumte5g.jpg

 photo 013 - 2S7_Page_03_Step-02_Photo02_zpscq51zgzi.jpg

~Cheers
The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Monday, February 15, 2016 - 12:18 PM UTC
Step two: I postponed untill Step 30. But I would like to state quite clearly; that the ease of triming E2-7 & E2-4 off the sprues was so easily graceful, unlike another review of a diferent company I did last year.

 photo 014 - 2S7_Page_04_Step-02_zpsxvmhqqlv.jpg

 photo 015 - 2S7_Page_04_Step-02_A_zpslbqawlon.jpg

The wheel arms I DID do now.....

 photo 016 - 2S7_Page_04_Step-02_B_zpslfewo1wv.jpg


But again...I postponed the wheel steps to Step30.
I am showing the images in the order that the instructions show....

 photo 017 - 2S7_Page_04_Step-02_C_zpsmecfbfsp.jpg

 photo 018 - 2S7_Page_04_Step-02_D_zpsphh54rfx.jpg

 photo 019 - 2S7_Page_04_Step-02_Photo02_zps83sa5tln.jpg This trick is probably obvious to many a modeler....But the reason for a review is for Everyone.

~Cheers
The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Monday, February 15, 2016 - 12:20 PM UTC
Step three: Please do Not attatch part H25 untill Step 33. Before your assembly of and decide if you want to customize them (If one is putting on AM workable tracks, one could keep these arms adjustable).

 photo 020 - 2S7_Page_04_Step-03_zpssrtfddmn.jpg

 photo 021 - 2S7_Page_04_Step-03_Photo02_zps6qnki107.jpg

 photo 022 - 2S7_Page_04_Step-03_Photo03_zpssmfwbs5b.jpg

~Cheers
The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Monday, February 15, 2016 - 12:25 PM UTC
Step Four:

Involves - at the bottom of the page - puting on the roller arms on the right side. Be sure to use the correctly numbered arms (F-12 and F-13 are side specific). I found the small pistons (stopping hydro absorbers) easier to make than I originally thought. Nice detail. Remember to not glue in ( or on the next step); untill you've decided what position you want for the final display: Driving or Shooting.
The fit of the rear compartment is so good I forgot I didn't glue the sides C-5 & C-6 to C-12 or C-4 & C-3 untill I took the kit apart in photo 2S7_Page_28_Step-34_&_35_Photo01B . Its relly great you can build the kit nearly in entirety and then decide if you want to put alot of work into the interior. On the other hand; the quality of the lower hull fit - would make an after market engine/transmission/generator and armament carriers - easy to drop in. It would elevate this kit to the heights of completeness achived by Meng's M2A3 w/ Busk. I have one question though...where does the crew of the center interior section put their legs? ...Maybe the two benches are actually futons?


 photo 023 - 2S7_Page_05_Step-04_AA_zpshw4aj45z.jpg

 photo 024 - 2S7_Page_05_Step-04_AAa_zps6lnk8lfk.jpg

 photo 025 - 2S7_Page_05_Step-04_AAb_zpsbygagscu.jpg

 photo 026 - 2S7_Page_05_Step-04_AB_zpshctr1noc.jpg

 photo 027 - 2S7_Page_05_Step-04_B_zpsoawhnove.jpg

 photo 028 - 2S7_Page_05_Step-04_C_zpsvew0cyrm.jpg

 photo 029 - 2S7_Page_05_Step-04_D_zpsbqrbwloz.jpg

~Cheers
The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Monday, February 15, 2016 - 12:35 PM UTC
Step five:
Again the subassemly C-11 drivers compartment fits so snug into the lower hull I didn't see the need to glue it in untill my Final fitting (around Step 30)

 photo 030 - 2S7_Page_06_Step-04_Bb_zpswx0vti8t.jpg

 photo 031 - 2S7_Page_06_Step-04_Chairs_Photo01_zpsyy5nmlr8.jpg

 photo 032 - 2S7_Page_06_Step-04_Chairs_Photo02_zpsug1c5chq.jpg

 photo 033 - 2S7_Page_06_Step-04_Chairs_Photo03_zps1xzj7ghv.jpg

 photo 034 - 2S7_Page_06_Step-05_zpsg1y5cpxk.jpg

 photo 035 - 2S7_Page_06_Step-05A_zpsmafvxgpr.jpg
 photo 036 - 2S7_Page_06_Step-05B_zpsnrgns2ju.jpg

 photo 037 - 2S7_Page_06_Step-05C_Photo01_zpsl7tpvjfn.jpg

~Cheers
The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Monday, February 15, 2016 - 12:37 PM UTC
Step six:
As shown in photo 2S7_Page_04_Step-02_C I postponed the wheel atatchments untill Step 30.

 photo 038 - 2S7_Page_07_Step-06_zpsmn948pzx.jpg

 photo 019 - 2S7_Page_04_Step-02_Photo02_zps83sa5tln.jpg


~Cheers
The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Monday, February 15, 2016 - 12:40 PM UTC
Step seven:
I also postponed the track build untill I finished the entire model (NOTE you must put on the finished tracks Before gluing the top hull to the lower hull). For this model I am forced to agree that individually glued together tracks are most appropriate. In all my research I did not find any photos of relaxed track slump along the return rollers.

 photo 039 - 2S7_Page_08_Step-07_zpsc3kwfyhi.jpg

 photo 040 - 2S7_Page_08_Step-07_Photo01_zpsphoxjubc.jpg

~Cheers
The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Monday, February 15, 2016 - 12:44 PM UTC
Step Eight:
I remember what it was like the first time I read Tom Clancy's "Red Storm Rising". I stayed up to 5am for days, unable to put the book down. The complexity, the pace, and it was well written to boot!
[ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_Storm_Rising ]
That is exactly what this build felt like to me; from step eight through step twenty one, I was fully emersed in the pieces, their complexity, workability, and their fit. I haven't had that absorbtion effect about a model in a very long time. Unhappily I got to step 8 After the sale I posted about...Awwww. The kit was being offered for $58 for that one weekend only. Now I am kicking myself; it would have been one of the very few kits, I will build more than one of; without being paid to do so. I assure you, a sale like that will not pass me twice! I will build this again, just for the fun of it.

This Model Is That Good/Fun/Complicated/makes you feel proud when you get it done.

 photo 041 - 2S7_Page_08_Step-08_zps1upl1nxw.jpg

~Cheers
The_musings_of_NBNoG
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Posted: Monday, February 15, 2016 - 12:47 PM UTC
Step nine:

Easy; G40s are keyed. J66 is keyed

 photo 042 - 2S7_Page_09_Step-09A_zps2kfiwbgc.jpg

~Cheers
 _GOTOTOP