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General Ship Modeling
Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
Build blog for Heller's HMS Victory
RussellE
#306
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Posted: Saturday, December 29, 2018 - 10:15 PM UTC
Timmy you dedication to completing this ship is incredible!
timmyp
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Posted: Saturday, December 29, 2018 - 02:59 PM UTC
Thanks, Mark. Your comment made me go back and look at my post, and I see that the last photo is the wrong photo! Plus I noticed another error that needs correcting...so thanks for making look!!

In other news, I spent today preparing the blocks that are attached to the eyebolts on the deck around the mizzen mast...here's a good construction tip: put those blocks in place before adding the mizzen mast, and the other deck components - you'll save yourself a bit of frustration later!! Next steps are to add the blocks that attach to the eyebolts near the signal flag boxes on the fantail, and figure out all that rigging.

Thanks all for stopping by!! (BTW, I'm not a Gator fan, but anybody who can destroy Michigan like that, I'll say hooray!!)
d6mst0
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Posted: Saturday, December 29, 2018 - 06:50 AM UTC
Nice.
timmyp
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Posted: Friday, December 28, 2018 - 06:20 AM UTC
Well, I see that my photos on cubeupload are appearing again (yea!!); of course, I find this out right after I just uploaded some pics to imgur.com (where the following pics are currently hosted).

So the first pic is of the mizzen top yard, (or, the middle yard), showing the vertical strings I attached, which will become the stirrups for the horses (or footropes):

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And here's everything glued-up. I used Elmer's white glue to strengthen & connect everything.


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And finally, a close-up of how the horses cross each other, as they pass the mast.

[img][img]

I glued what is called the "mizzen mast horn" in place a while back...and I was looking at how the rigging is done, concerning the top yard lift, and some other rigging that connects around the base of the mizzenmast. I've decided to start to install some of that rigging now, before I glue the spanker boom into place, only because by doing it now, I can give myself a little bit of room to work with, without fear of knocking something off. And before I started this post, I was getting ready to install the blocks that are involved in line A31 (which is the aforementioned top yard lift), but after preparing one of the blocks, I saw that I used the wrong size block. But it's a blessing in disguise, as in looking at the instructions, this "m" size block is attached to an eyebolt in the deck, and not to the fife collar around the mast. Good thing I looked!!

Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas, and will have a Happy New Year, too! And remember: don't drink & drive your horse!

Cheers,

Tim
timmyp
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Posted: Wednesday, December 26, 2018 - 07:53 PM UTC
I just signed up with Imgur, so this is a test to see if I can figurre out how to link a photo from there to here. FYI, this is my USS Constitution, built many years ago.





Well, look at that!! It worked! I will probably be going back to previous posts & updating the photos for those posts, since Cubeupload has apparently gone south on me.
timmyp
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Posted: Tuesday, December 11, 2018 - 03:16 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

So if anyone has any suggestions for a photo hosting site, that is reliable, please let me know.

Tim



Since leaving Photobucket I've been very happy using Imgur. They are excellent!



Thanks, Tim. I'll go take another look at their site.
TimReynaga
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MODEL SHIPWRIGHTS
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Posted: Tuesday, December 11, 2018 - 02:58 PM UTC

Quoted Text

So if anyone has any suggestions for a photo hosting site, that is reliable, please let me know.

Tim



Since leaving Photobucket I've been very happy using Imgur. They are excellent!
timmyp
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Posted: Tuesday, December 11, 2018 - 02:39 PM UTC
Well, just to keep everyone up-to-date: the mizzen yards have all been painted black, the footropes (horses and stirrups, as Longridge calls them) have been installed. Haven't glued the yards to the mast yet, as I am currently working on preparing the spanker boom and horn* for attachment to the mizzen mast.

Haven't decided on a hosting site yet, so no pix!

In preparing some of the blocks to add to the horn, when I turned my Dremel tool on, I noticed the bit I had chucked in it seemed to be out of kilter. Upon investigating, I found that the shaft of the engraving bit was bent (a result of the Dremel tool getting knocked off the window ledge). So then I had the bright idea of taking some flat-jawed pliers and trying to straighten the shaft, with the result that I managed just to break the shaft. So I'm waiting for Amazon to fulfill my desires and send me a couple of new engraving bits (ETA is Friday).

Thanks for looking.

Tim

*if that's the right term. I'm pretty sure Heller calls it something like spanker horn (they use the word horn); I've seen it called the driver gaff, also. It's the upper spar, that holds the mizzen sail in place.
timmyp
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Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 02:35 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Tim,

I've been using ImageShack for years, they have a free service but I'm paying a regular small fee since I'm quite happy with their reliability - never had any issues.

Cheers,
Jan



Thanks, Jan. I realized that I already have an account with Imageshack, but it's not currently active.

Overall, I'm thinking this whole thing over quite a bit, as I don't want to be caught up in another situation where all my photo posts get obliterated.

Thanks again for writing. And just to keep everyone up-to-date, I've added the footropes (horses, according to Lingridge) to the mizzen yards, and am now working on attaching all the blocks to the...driver gaff? (The upper yard that is on the backside of the mizzenmast).
JJ1973
#345
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Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 06:28 AM UTC
Hi Tim,

I've been using ImageShack for years, they have a free service but I'm paying a regular small fee since I'm quite happy with their reliability - never had any issues.

Cheers,
Jan
timmyp
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Posted: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 - 02:20 PM UTC
Ugg, it looks like my picture hosting site has...well, I dunno, swallowed all my photos? I see now, all my previous pictures that I hosted on photobucket appear to be showing up, but the latest round of pics, hosted at cubeupload, aren't showing up (I even checked the cubeupload site, and there is the description of the photo, but no photo!). I was hoping to post a few pictures of how put some of the footropes on the mizzen yards, but until I get a better host site, I don't think I'll post any photos. I also started to paint the yardarms black, so progress is being made - the weather is supposed to be pretty bad tomorrow morning, so if I get motivated, I'll do some more painting on the yardarms.

So if anyone has any suggestions for a photo hosting site, that is reliable, please let me know. I might even just buy some space here on kitmaker, and be done with it once and for all.

Tim
timmyp
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Posted: Monday, November 05, 2018 - 03:32 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Tim,

brave man!! Just checking in again to see you've come a rather long way since.
Fantasten work. I could not imagine doing that, so my hat is off to you!!

Cheers,
Jan



Thanks, Jan. Keep checking back so you can see the glacial pace that this build is moving at!!
JJ1973
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Posted: Sunday, November 04, 2018 - 07:26 AM UTC
Tim,

brave man!! Just checking in again to see you've come a rather long way since.
Fantasten work. I could not imagine doing that, so my hat is off to you!!

Cheers,
Jan
timmyp
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Posted: Monday, October 29, 2018 - 03:04 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Timothy,

You must have the patience of a saint you handle all that rigging and the issues you encountered doing so.
Your work is first rate, she a fine looking ship. I really like the colors you used on the hull.

Mark



Thanks, Mark. Sometimes I look at the hull colors, and I'm reminded of the yellow-and-black floor striping around heavy machinery!

Tim
d6mst0
#453
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Posted: Saturday, October 27, 2018 - 01:02 PM UTC
Timothy,

You must have the patience of a saint you handle all that rigging and the issues you encountered doing so.
Your work is first rate, she a fine looking ship. I really like the colors you used on the hull.

Mark
timmyp
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Posted: Saturday, October 27, 2018 - 11:06 AM UTC
Yea me!! Finally got all the stays rigged:



On stay E5, which is the mizzen stay, I cut the thread a bit short, so this is how I fixed that little problem:



Here's a picture of all the foremast stays that are attached to the bowsprit:



In order, from left to right in the picture, or from outboard to inboard:

E17 flagstaff stay
E14 jib halyard stay
E13 stay
E12 jib stay
E8 foretopmast preventer stay
E7 foretopmast stay
E2 forestay
E1 forestay preventer

When I took the above picture, I hadn't finished the snaking on the forestay & preventer, so now that the snaking is done, here's the pic:



Interesting to note, the pattern the snaking made was something like a stairstep; I think it took me about 90 minutes to get it completed.

Here's some pix of stays E9 and E10, the maintopmast stay (E10) and the maintopmast preventer stay (E9).

The preventer stay is the thread going through a loop on the mast, and the stay itself is threaded through the block (which is higher up on the mast from the loop for the preventer stay).



And here they are belayed to the fife rail. E9 is closest in the photo.



This is stay E6 (mizzen preventer stay) and E11 (mizzen topmast stay)belayed to the fife rail around the mainmast:



And now, stays E15 (stay, first picture) and E18 (main flagstaff stay, second picture) and how they belay to part 38 (Heller calls part 38 "bitts").





And lastly, when I was installing the snaking on the foremast stays, I keep bumping part 121 (the sprit sail boom lower), to where it finally fell off, but supported by the rigging:



So, the construction tip on all this is, don't put the bow rigging in place until all the standing rigging is done - you won't have the problem of trying to weave standing rigging lines through all the running rigging. Plus, it might be a good idea to keep part 121 off until the standing rigging is completed (and if you do that, it forces you to put the a good portion of the running rigging in after the standing rigging is completed).

Next steps: installing the footropes on the mizzen mast yardarms (started that today), and then get the yardarms installed.

Thanks for looking!!
timmyp
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Posted: Thursday, October 04, 2018 - 06:09 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Timothy,

That is an impressive set of rigging you have done so far. I would need more then a week to re-tackle that setup to make repairs. If you didn't have knowledge of project management before taking on this model I bet you do now...LOL Very nice work, looking forward to the finish.

Mark



Thanks, Mark. Yeah, it took a bit of time to figure out how to make the repairs, and then to make them.

This kit is an exercise in patience, for sure!!

And I'm looking forward to the finish, too!!!
d6mst0
#453
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Posted: Thursday, October 04, 2018 - 09:12 AM UTC
Timothy,

That is an impressive set of rigging you have done so far. I would need more then a week to re-tackle that setup to make repairs. If you didn't have knowledge of project management before taking on this model I bet you do now...LOL Very nice work, looking forward to the finish.

Mark
timmyp
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Posted: Wednesday, October 03, 2018 - 01:35 AM UTC
So, I checked a little further about where stays E12 and E13 go into the bowsprit. In looking things over, I remembered that there is pre-formed sheave in the upper end of the inner jibboom (part 123), and instruction 19 (Fitting the Bowsprit) shows stays E12 and E13 going through the holes there:



The instruction shows the lines going to m2 and m3, installed in instruction 11C.

And this is Heller's depiction of the stays being attached to the blocks m2 and m3, in 11C:



For some reason, the way Heller has everything drawn, I'm reminded of horse rearing up on its hind legs when I look at this drawing!

Thanks for watching!
timmyp
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Posted: Saturday, September 29, 2018 - 07:36 AM UTC
A little trouble getting stay E8 connected to the tackle. As I was trying to get the stay wound around the block, the whole kit and caboodle detached from the collar it was attached to, the collar itself being secured to the bowsprit. So I managed to get things fixed up, but only after not working on the model for a week!

Here's the stay wrapped around the block (this is the block just above the figurine):



And, to make life simple, here the tackle is attached to the knighthead:



In reading Longridge's book, it appears that I now have to make another collar with at least 2 thimbles in it, to accept the next set of stays. (I think those are stays E13 and E14).

That's all for now; thanks for looking! I'm going to submit the pictures I took of USS Constitution for a "Walk around" feature, to I hope you'll take a look at that when it's published!

Cheers
timmyp
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Posted: Friday, September 14, 2018 - 08:16 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I'm surprised that Heller would go through the trouble of getting the foretopgallant stays more or less historically accurate, but then be chintzy on how the maintopgallant stays are secured.



It's funny, I frequently find that in kits; one part of the model is cleverly designed, but an adjacent area looks like the design "B" team was at work, leaving you scratching your head. Maybe that is why this happens - multiple teams working on a kit design project? Oh, well... it keeps things interesting!




And the sad thing is, to make the model more accurate, all they had to do was mold two holes into the deck, and add a couple or eyebolt rings to the kit!
TimReynaga
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MODEL SHIPWRIGHTS
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Posted: Wednesday, September 12, 2018 - 12:55 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I'm surprised that Heller would go through the trouble of getting the foretopgallant stays more or less historically accurate, but then be chintzy on how the maintopgallant stays are secured.



It's funny, I frequently find that in kits; one part of the model is cleverly designed, but an adjacent area looks like the design "B" team was at work, leaving you scratching your head. Maybe that is why this happens - multiple teams working on a kit design project? Oh, well... it keeps things interesting!

timmyp
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Posted: Sunday, September 09, 2018 - 12:13 PM UTC
Maybe - but I doubt it!!
d6mst0
#453
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Posted: Friday, September 07, 2018 - 01:17 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I'm surprised that Heller would go through the trouble of getting the foretopgallant stays more or less historically accurate, but then be chintzy on how the maintopgallant stays are secured.



Maybe they felt you could use a break.
timmyp
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Posted: Friday, September 07, 2018 - 09:33 AM UTC
So, I was looking at Heller's instructions, trying to figure out how I should attach the foretopmast stays (E7 and E8) to the bowsprit. Looking at Heller's diagram (see below),

it would seem that they are just tied directly to the bowsprit. However, in looking at Longridge's book, this is what he has to say:

"...eye, mouse, etc., are prepared as for the main stay. It passes through the hole in the starboard bee, round the sheave in the bee block and has a 24-on. long tackle block turned in the end, connected by its fall (3 1/2 in.) to a 14-in. single block hooked to the starboard knight head. The fore topmast preventer stay...is prepared in the same way. Both stays go round the topmast head outside the rigging and lie below the first and second cross tress. The preventer stay reeves through the port bee and has an 18-in. long tackle block turned in connected by its fall (3 in.) to a 12-in. single block hooked to the port knight head. The preventer stay is put over the topmast head before the other stay and lies below the latter."

Hmmmmm....the bees? Better look things over!

Oh, so here it is: in instruction 9a, we see that parts 217 and 216 (starboard and port bees) are attached to the bowsprit (parts 118 and 117):




and that stays E7 and E8 go through the holes in the bees:



And then, according to the instruction 19A, we see that they are attached to some tackle that was previously made in instruction 11B.




So here is how it tentatively looks on the model: just above the tags for some other rigging lines, I have some black thread going through an "M" size block.




Couldn't be easier!!

A few posts back, I think I erroneously wrote that only 2 more stays had to have a loop and mouse made...that should have been more like 5 more stays (the 2 for the maintopmast stays, then 2 for the foretopmast stays, and one each for the mizzen stay, mizzen preventer stay, and the mizzen topmast stay).

I also have found an inaccuracy on Heller's part: according to Longridge, the maintopgallant stays are secured to eyebolts in the deck, and those eyebolts are between the foremast and the after (or, the fife rail right behind the foremast) fife rail. Heller has no eyebolts being installed there, and according to instruction 17 (the belaying diagram), it shows stays E9 and E10 being attached to the after fife rail (one each side). I don't think I'm going to try and fabricate any eyebolts and then try to install them, so I will just go with Heller's instruction of just attaching them to the fife rail. I'm surprised that Heller would go through the trouble of getting the foretopgallant stays more or less historically accurate, but then be chintzy on how the maintopgallant stays are secured.