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General Ship Modeling
Discuss modeling techniques, experiences, and ship modeling in general.
Build blog for Heller's HMS Victory
RussellE
#306
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Victoria, Australia
Joined: June 27, 2010
KitMaker: 3,796 posts
Armorama: 1 posts
Posted: Monday, November 09, 2015 - 02:23 PM UTC
A challenging build for sure Tim, but one I'm definitely watching!

Thanks For sharing!

Russ
timmyp
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Virginia, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 462 posts
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Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 04:30 PM UTC
Thanks, Jan.

Yes, for the next deck that gets installed, I'm already thinking of ways to push the hull apart (push it apart gently!!) to get the deck in place. I've also been thinking about maybe applying some lubricant (like Vaseline) to the edges of the deck, and then push/pull the deck into the place.

I was reading the instructions today about getting the deck installed. Among other things, it says to apply glue to the tops of parts 92, 203, and 76 (of which there are ten),and have the deck rest on top of all those parts. The only problem is, you're supposed to paint the underside of the deck pearl gray, and with no way of knowing where those aforementioned parts line-up on the bottom of the deck, how do you know where to scrape off the paint so the glue will adhere? I think the solution here is just to have the top deck rest on top of all of those parts.

But all that is for the near future; I have to finish painting the lasst 5 pieces of part 76 (the painting takes about 5 minutes, drying time is another hour, and then another 5 minutes for more painting). And then I still need to paint the top deck, which will take about 30 minutes alone to paint, a day to dry, and then another 30 minutes or so to overcoat it. So maybe by the weekend I'll be starting to put the deck in place. Cheers!
JJ1973
#345
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Niedersachsen, Germany
Joined: August 22, 2011
KitMaker: 1,826 posts
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Posted: Saturday, November 07, 2015 - 11:15 PM UTC
Tim,

from your explanations and your pictures I clearly get the impression that some modelers feel intimidated by this kit. That's certainly no kit for beginners!!

Great build log so far, I am looking forward to follow your progress.

Very nice work up to now! I wish you best of luck with your next level deck, the way Heller tells you it should be inserted makes me shiver a bit, I hope you manage without any damage to your build!!


Cheers,

Jan
TRM5150
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 07, 2015 - 08:17 AM UTC
Nice bit of work there Tim! Well done on the fix at the bow!
timmyp
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Virginia, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 462 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 07, 2015 - 05:31 AM UTC
So, I think I got the picture upload thing down pat, as I now see all the photos I've uploaded the past couple of days.

While this portion of the build is out of sequence, I just wanted to show some of the problems about how all the parts fit together. Here, I'm going to discuss and show the problems I had in fitting the "headpiece" (?) to the prow of the ship.

Here's a picture of the headpiece glued up:




So far, so good. Given the number of clothespins I used to hold it together, means I used my "mini" clothespins - they're about an inch and a half long.

So now, skipping ahead past some painting, here is how the headpiece fitted against the hull:



As you can (sort of) see, the "wings" of the headpiece don't fit against the hull. So I decided to try to "mold" the wings against the hull, using a candle to get the plastic pliable enough to bend. I wasn't 100% successful, but I got them close enough to the hull to where I'm happy.








However, once I glued the headpiece onto the hull, I found another problem: There was a big gap between the hull and the headpiece. In the photo below, the white strip of plastic is some filler I cut to fit into the gap:




And here's the filler on the port side:


And now, after painting:




So here, apropos of nothing, is a shot of the second cannon deck with the cannons in place:



And as long as I'm at it, here's what I went through to get the base made, and the hull attached to it:

So here is the construction of "the plinth", as the instructions call it - most everyone else will call it the base. It's made from cherry, and I had to glue two pieces together lengthwise to get close to the width that is called for in the instructions (and having to translate metric to English dimensions). I also put a Roman ogee profile on it, just to add interest. Good thing I have a decent wood shop!


And here it is after routing an edge on it:



And here's some pictures of the sawdust I created:







So once I got "the plinth" finished, it was time to screw the hull to it. In the next couple of pictures, is the process. I glued the stands to the hull before screwing them to the base - this made it really difficult to screw the screws in, but at least the distance between the two stands is accurate! I used a short nail to guestimate where the center of each hole would be. [Insert images Screw in place, screw in, screws partly in 2, screws partly in, tools to get the screws in, mounted].











So here are a few more pictures of the hull mounted to the plinth. In the next image, to make sure I had things oriented correctly, I had to remind myself of which side was for the bow:



And here's a couple shots, looking up at the hull. This first image just seems to me that Victory is still in drydock, getting built:







Here's a head-on shot of the bow. At this point, only the lowest gun deck has been installed.



OK, so that's about it for now - it's almost time to watch Ohio State play some football. Thanks for taking the time to check out my postings
TRM5150
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Friday, November 06, 2015 - 06:35 AM UTC
Hey Tim! Looking forward to seeing your victory come about! In the end, all that matters will be how much fun you have during he build! 00000000000000000000

I am not too sure about the whole bulk uploading of the pics, but if you copy the URL in the box labeled 'Linked Thumbnail' below the picture you want to ad, then paste it in the editing box here in your thread!
timmyp
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Virginia, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 462 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, November 06, 2015 - 06:15 AM UTC
Well, I was just fumbling through the process of uploading photos...it was bizarre! I found the pictures I had uploaded earlier today, but then, navigating around the kitmaker gallery, I lost them...plus, it seems that the best way to upload photos is to do it one at a time - when I try to do ten photos at a pop, nothing seems to actually get uploaded. Try, try, again!
timmyp
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Virginia, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 462 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, November 06, 2015 - 05:40 AM UTC
Well hi all,
I've been talking about starting a build blog for this kit for some time, so I figured it was about time to get it started. And why not? I turned fifty-five today.

This blog is (hopefully) going to document the construction of the Heller's kit of HMS Victory, and I hope I can give enlightenment to any who is building, or is going to build, this kit. As a lot of people noted on my review of this kit, the instructions leave a fair amount to be desired. So if I can let people know of some of the pitfalls and workarounds I've found or used, then a big part of the purpose of this blog has been fulfilled.

The beginning

I've been working on my model since 2010 (the kit was bought in '07). A lot of that time has been spent on painting the hull, cannon carronades, and deck pieces. A lot of the other time was spent clearing my desk, and doing my income taxes!

I've seen a lot of forum posts about how this model kit somehow intimidates people. Myself, I like a big challenge! But if you've never built a sailing ship model before, Heller's Victory is not the place to start. Not only are there a lot of parts (more on that later), but the assembly sequence is a bit bizarre, and you'll find yourself scratching your head quite a bit when it comes to figuring out the rigging scheme. However, there is a belaying pin-to-rope diagram, so taking a few minutes to find where the end of the rope goes to on that diagram, will be helpful. Of course, the amount of painting that is done on this ship is astronomical - not only does the outside of the hull have to be painted, but the inside of the hull gets painted, as well as both sides of all the deck pieces. This is where you'll spend scads of time - trying to figure out, on the hull, the point where a black stripe ends and a yellow stripe begins. I used the box art and the instructions, and what might be some molded-in "lines" to determine what's black and what's yellow (or ochre, if you prefer). Plus, the inside of the hull, on the upper parts, there is the moldings that are to be painted black, against a yellow background. This is where you can get a bit nutty - I found myself constantly re-touching the black, because of some over-run of the yellow, then touching up the yellow, because of some over-run of the black. And the worst thing is, I'll be painting on this thing until after I think I'm finished with it.

About the parts quantity: It looks like Heller, in their finite wisdom, rather than try to get "x' number of similar parts molded on the same sprue, they just throw in two or three sprues with that same part. For instance, the ladders that lead from the main deck (or at least, what the U.S. Navy would nowadays call the main deck) down below, were all molded in black. However, rather than try to get all the ladders on the same sprue, I found that there is one ladder on 3 sprues. And I'm not sure I'll use all the parts on the rest of the sprues. So even if the box says there's some 1000+ parts, take it with a grain of salt. Besides, each cannon assembly has 6 parts: 6 times 100 (cannons) equals 600 parts. Boom - you just slashed the parts count by more than half.

And now, about the lacks of parts quantity: it really rubs me the wrong way that Heller didn't include any black thread for the standing rigging, let alone any kind of anchor cable. Of the rigging thread they do supply, it's in two diameters, and colored white. In the instructions, they tell you to run the thread through a cup of coffee to get it colored. They don't tell you if that should be black coffee, or cafe au lait, or Folger's or Starbucks. I couldn't see brewing a new cup of coffee each time I needed to color their thread. So I went to a Canadian company (www.castyouranchorhobbies.com) to get some various sizes of black thread for the standing rigging. I went looking for some various sizes of tan colored thread for the running rigging, but the sizes weren't what I was looking for. Then, as I was sitting out on the front porch, it hit me: why not get a brown Sharpie marker, and run the thread against it, to color the thread? So that's what I did. It turns the thread a dark brown, but I'll live with it. Besides, the box art shows some of the running rigging to be dark brown, so I can't be too far off the mark.

So, I know a picture is worth a thousand words, so I'll try to upload photos so that I can then post them into this blog. Unfortunately, I uploaded a bunch of photos earlier this today, but now, I don't see them in the gallery...maybe I was supposed to "process" the photos to get them to actually upload. So now, it's off to read the forum post about uploading photos and stuff.

Currently, I'm working on step 9 of the instructions - I just finished cementing all the cannons onto the deck, so now it's time to finish painting the fixtures (or columns, or stanchions, not sure what to call them), then the finish painting the upper deck (ha ha! "finish painting" ha ha!) and try to get that installed. The instructions say to spread the hull apart to get the upper deck slid into place, but I'm not sure how that's going to work out.

One thing about the paint I'm using: I'm using Tamiya acrylic paints. Usually I paint with enamels, but I wanted to do something different this time. For everyone who might build this ship in the future, use some kind of yellow ochre for the yellow color (I'm using Testor's Insignia yellow, in acrylic). The problem is, when you look at the hull from a distance, because it's flat black/bright flat yellow, it looks like some kind of industrial warning zone. So don't use too bright of a yellow. And the red I'm using, it's glossy red, not flat red. The brightness looks sharp, but the glossiness doesn't really belong on a warship. And of all these paints, it usually takes at least 2 coats to get good coverage, with at least 1 hour dry time between coats. So if you have a preference for type and brand of paint, feel free to go with it. I have found, however, by using acrylic paint, I can go to the craft store and buy a big bottle of gold colored paint for less than 2 dollars, and I use maybe 3 brushfuls of the stuff. I say that, because up on the bow, there is some scroll work that needs to be painted gold, and I can't see ponying up the 5 or 6 dollars at the hobby shop for a jar of gold paint that is a fraction of the size I got at the craft store.

So for the rest of the blog, things might seem a bit out of sequence, as I've put parts together while waiting for other painted parts to dry or something. So that's all for now, and I thank you for taking the time to read this blog.
Cheers,

Timmy P.