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General Ship Modeling: Bases & Water Effects
These topics dealing with buidling bases and water effects are grouped together
I need help with a water effect?
#027
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Posted: Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 01:42 PM UTC
Any ideas on how to create this in 1/700?

Halfyank
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Posted: Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 02:59 PM UTC
I'm not sure how it would look but you could experiment with cotton. I've seen some pretty impressive smoke done that way and if you look at this it does kind of look like smoke.
CRS
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Posted: Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 03:24 PM UTC
You could also give Water Effects by Vallejo a try. I've seen it used to great effect to make waterfalls. I've not used it myself yet, but I do have it on hand, for a project I have in mind.
Some other products you may wish to look into:
http://www.michtoy.com/MTSCnewSite/supplies_folder/water_effects/water_effects.html
rea00cy
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Posted: Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 03:41 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Any ideas on how to create this in 1/700?




Hi,Kenny: that'ssomething I've been working for a while, and I would like to upload a photo for you to evaluate the results to hear your comments if my built meet your expectations. I'm realtively new to this forum. Is there any means to upload photos directly from my PC to this forum?

Gunny
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Posted: Sunday, September 20, 2009 - 11:07 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi,Kenny: that'ssomething I've been working for a while, and I would like to upload a photo for you to evaluate the results to hear your comments if my built meet your expectations. I'm realtively new to this forum. Is there any means to upload photos directly from my PC to this forum?



Ahoy, Augusto,
Welcome to Model Shipwrights, mate!

As a member of the KitMaker Network, you have your very own image album hosted here to upload your photos to...Click onto "photos" underneath your name in this thread (or on top of the webpage, beside the "forums" tab), and this will take you to your personal album... you must log in to the gallery area the same way as you log-in to this network.

You can upload your images here, best to keep them to 800x600 resolution...then you can display them into the forum threads by placing the image url into the thread using the "img" button under the reply box...for more help see here...

Cheers,
~Gunny
ajkochev
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Posted: Monday, September 21, 2009 - 01:24 AM UTC
Is that the sub photo on the old PC game "688 Attack Sub"? It sure looks like it. Better people here can help you with the water, as for the model, a Hobby Boss model of a modern Sub would do nicely for the model. The small subs they do are cheap and really have a lot of detail on them.
#027
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Posted: Monday, September 21, 2009 - 09:01 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Is that the sub photo on the old PC game "688 Attack Sub"? It sure looks like it. Better people here can help you with the water, as for the model, a Hobby Boss model of a modern Sub would do nicely for the model. The small subs they do are cheap and really have a lot of detail on them.


Hey Anthony,

I've already got one of those Hobby Boss kits built just or this purpose. You can have this sub built in about 10 minutes.
MrMox
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Posted: Monday, September 21, 2009 - 09:52 AM UTC
Hi Kenny - I would love to see you doing that scene - this might help you a bit further http://armorama.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=955

Cheers/Jan
#027
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Posted: Monday, September 21, 2009 - 10:00 AM UTC
That gives me something to start with Jan. Maybe I could modify my silicone caulk technique.
rea00cy
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Posted: Monday, September 21, 2009 - 09:11 PM UTC
Thanks, Gunny:

There you are, Kenny. Hope that you like it


Removed by original poster on 09/22/09 - 08:15:33 (GMT).
rea00cy
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Posted: Monday, September 21, 2009 - 09:17 PM UTC
Here's a second photo. These are form a Heller 1/400 ubooat kit.
MrMox
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Posted: Monday, September 21, 2009 - 09:58 PM UTC
WOW !
#027
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Posted: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 05:07 AM UTC
That's wonderful Augusto! How was it done?
CaptSonghouse
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Posted: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 07:04 AM UTC
Hey Kenny!

I will be completing a couple of "violent water" dios in the next couple of weeks, so I should have something else for you to examine soon.

Basically, for effects like spray and shell geysers, I use artificial spider webbing as a basis. This is the right time of year to stock up on the stuff, BTW.

Stay tuned....

--Karl
CaptSonghouse
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Posted: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 07:06 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Here's a second photo. These are form a Heller 1/400 ubooat kit.



Wonderful work, Augusto! I enjoy seeing action naval scenes, after all, why should the armor folks have all the fun!

--Karl
rea00cy
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Posted: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 11:13 AM UTC
Hi,Kenny:

That's part of a diorama I built just with the divine water campaign. Unfortunately, I was not aware of the rules, so I'm disqualified and would not be able to post the procedure under that campaign.
I'm new to this site and not aware about any other means/place to post a photo-documented, step-by-step procedure in this site. Materials are cheap, procedure is simple, although somehow lenghty. Could you or anyone else give me a hint or an example on how to post my ideas here?

Happy modeling,

Jorge
rea00cy
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Posted: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 11:33 AM UTC
Hi, Karl:

Action in naval scenes is my favorite subject too. Those pics I've posted are part of a Kriegsmarine naval diorama I've just finished (see attached photo). You can see some other naval action scenes of mine at modelwarships.com under Jorge Martinez. I would like to see yours too, so any link would be greatly appreciated.


Happy modeling!

Jorge
rea00cy
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Posted: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 11:36 AM UTC
Here's is a second photo:
#027
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Posted: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 11:55 AM UTC
Augusto,

If you take photos of your process, then you can upload them to the gallery and post them like your other photos.

Karl,

I'll start looking for synthetic spider webs!
CaptSonghouse
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Posted: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 12:38 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi, Karl:

Action in naval scenes is my favorite subject too. Those pics I've posted are part of a Kriegsmarine naval diorama I've just finished (see attached photo). You can see some other naval action scenes of mine at modelwarships.com under Jorge Martinez. I would like to see yours too, so any link would be greatly appreciated.


Happy modeling!

Jorge



Hi Jorge!

Since uploading pics on the forum has been a chore (for me at least), I will start sending in pics as features....as soon as I master miniature photography!

In the meantime, please look up "Steer 230" on google and it will show a Pearl Harbor scene I completed last December. Please excuse the mediocre photography, the snaps were taken with a point-n-shoot.

--Karl
rea00cy
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Posted: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 04:19 PM UTC
Karl:

I remeber yor Pearl Harbor diorama perfectly well. Actually, I save some pics in my hard drive. It's an excellent diorama, with magnificient "special effects" , particularly the smoke and lights are really impressive. So far, I have not seen anything like that in smoke representation and I'm dissapointed with my own results, even after several attempts to achieve at least fairly good ones.
Looks like we are tuned to the same frequency. Unfortunately, the majority of our fellow modelers are not. Someone once wrote me that explosions, fires and similar effects "detracted instead of enhancing" ship modeling....So it is wonderful to have a buddy like you interested in the same effects!
Did you had a chance to see my models at modelwarships.com? I would like to hear your comments (critics too, of course).
I look forward to seeing more of your work!
Happy modeling,

Jorge
rea00cy
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Posted: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 - 04:35 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Augusto,

If you take photos of your process, then you can upload them to the gallery and post them like your other photos.

Karl,

I'll start looking for synthetic spider webs!



Kenny, I have the photos already, since I took a lot of them during the process, but I'm afraid that they are no enough. I know that one photo tells more than a thousand words, but this is a process that is not oriented only by technicalities (materials, procedures...) but mainly guided by the goal to achieve convincing results (so far I'm the only judge, but I will like to have the opinion of other modelers; that's why I'm very interested to post this).
What I mean is that in my case I can use/follow different approaches, steps and even materials, to make one water splash in one part of my diorama and another in a different location of the same diorama. So a detailed explanation of both - along with the appropriate photo documentation- is necessary, If it is for someone else to follow.
My Q is : Other than in a campaign, is there any other way to post an step-by-step presentation of what I've done?

Thanks for you suggestion!

Jorge
CaptSonghouse
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Posted: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 - 05:50 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Karl:

I remeber yor Pearl Harbor diorama perfectly well. Someone once wrote me that explosions, fires and similar effects "detracted instead of enhancing" ship modeling....

Jorge



You bring up an interesting point, Jorge. Modeling is like an art form, from the purely static rendering of an object on a stand to "furniture scale" elaborate dioramas and shadowboxes. I don't believe one form is inherently superior or more legit than any other--it's all in the eye of the beholder.

For my part, since I have been a student of history for as long as I have been in scale modeling, incorporating action, particularly what is considered violence, is another expression of the medium. After all, warships are designed to fight and endure violent action. Having said that, I must also point out that just because a scene can be produced doesn't necessarily mean it should. For example, I briefly considered depicting a cube-of-the-sea rendering of the Lusitania's foundering in 1915. The diorama had some interesting technical challenges given the nature of the ship's impact with the sea floor off Ireland and such, but when I moved on to dealing with hundreds of frantic passengers struggling to abandon the swiftly sinking liner and trying to survive in the frigid water, I decided to leave such a depiction to Ken Marshall's artwork in the Ballard book. Likewise in trying to portray blazing soldiers fleeing a bunker subjected to a flamethrower.

Addressing your correspondent's complaint, the key to pulling off violent action in naval dioramas like fire effects and shell splashes, etc., is to accurately portray the effects in scale, which is why I have invested a considerable amount of time examining HOW water behaves when it is thrust into the air, or HOW a smoke column is formed (did you know, for example, that a smoke column from an inflight aircraft fire is of an entirely different structure from that of a surface fire?).

An added problem I face with this new internet modeling form is trying to faithfully capture my effects on camera for the rest of the world to enjoy. For example, many of my "Steer 230" photos give the impression that the smoke on the Arizona wreck is chunky like a Brillo pad. That is a reflection of the limitations of my camera and ambient lighting issues. I have since discovered that miniature photography is an extreme form of still photography requiring special equipment and lighting techniques to adequately capture what the human eye can see in person. Just another skillset I must master to participate in this specialized form of modeling!

So, keep it up, and do pay attention to how the effects you want to depict actually work.

--Karl
sargentx
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Posted: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 - 10:47 AM UTC
Well, one way is to use medical cotton puffs. Pull it between your fingers so the fibres are going one way. Trim the ends and attach the ends to the subs side and to the water. Basically stringing cotton directionally from the hull to the water. Next, take epoxy and lightly touch the threads with it and it will look something like glass icicles/water. It's pretty effective. That's what I did on the sides of my Yamato that's featured right now.
Your war scene is epic!