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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Finishing and Weathering Sequence
jzumbro
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California, United States
Joined: August 27, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 - 04:42 AM UTC
Thank you!!
jaberwaki
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Georgia, United States
Joined: September 29, 2010
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Posted: Friday, October 01, 2010 - 07:49 PM UTC
what is a good method for achieving realistic paint chips?
SSGToms
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Connecticut, United States
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Posted: Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 02:46 PM UTC
Hi Craig,

Answered this above:

"I do chipping and stippling with sponges a lot. I use two applicators - a piece of Scotchbrite green scrubby pad is good for large scratches and chips. A piece of open cell foam pad, like the kind in electronics packing, or a piece of disposable foam sponge brush is great for tiny chips and stippling lighter colors for fading and wear.
Acrylic paints work best for this as they dry quickly and can make very small marks. Dip the piece in paint, dab it on a rag to remove most of the paint, and gently, quickly and randomly dab at the model. You can build up the effect and make sure not to go overboard with it.
I like Tamiya NATO Black for dark steel chips and Tamiya hull red for primer chips. Experiment with different colors and dabbing speed on a junk model until it's coming out how you want."
Paulski
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Noord-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: October 03, 2010
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Posted: Monday, October 04, 2010 - 10:25 AM UTC
At what stage would you advise to paint any on-vehicle tools/accesories?
jaberwaki
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Georgia, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, October 05, 2010 - 01:40 PM UTC
is it possible to use only acrylic paints for everything?
SSGToms
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Posted: Tuesday, October 05, 2010 - 02:14 PM UTC

Quoted Text

At what stage would you advise to paint any on-vehicle tools/accesories?


Everybody has their own preference, but I leave all of mine off until all the camo or base painting is done. I paint and weather the tools off the model, then attach them with CA. I usually glue the straps to the tools, then the whole thing to the vehicle. Makes it all a lot easier.
SSGToms
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Posted: Tuesday, October 05, 2010 - 02:24 PM UTC

Quoted Text

is it possible to use only acrylic paints for everything?


Yes it is. Miguel (Mig) Jimenez recently made a DVD for Vallejo in which he demonstrates finishing an AFV using only acyrlics from start to finish. You'll have to get the DVD though!
rebelsoldier
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Arizona, United States
Joined: June 30, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, October 30, 2010 - 02:11 PM UTC
just refreshing my lil mind here. i brush entire model in future, let dry, apply decals as needed, this is the question. does vinegar still help tighten the decal and prevent discoloring and wrinkles? i was taught that a few years back, and am just gettin back into the swing of things, now out of the work force so i have more time to play! and after it all dried i applied a new coat of future, again over the entire model. my e mail is billybob85625@yahoo.com if you wish to reply there appreciate all the good info here.

reb
Jedge3
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Michigan, United States
Joined: July 17, 2010
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Posted: Sunday, October 31, 2010 - 02:07 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

can you link to what you use as "acrylic clear flat"? for the gloss part i use future, but i have no idea as to what use at this step (something by tamiya? vallejo?)

also, after the model is done should i spray it with something like vallejo's matt varnish?


Excellent flat clear acrylic is made by Pollyscale, MM Acryl, and Vallejo.
I make my own flat clear with 3 parts Future and 2 parts Tamiya X-21 flat base.
If you finish your model with a flat clear, it will darken the pigments and negate
their dusty look.



Do you use straight future as a gloss coat? And if you do you thin it at all? Thanks. First time weathering my models.
SSGToms
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Posted: Sunday, October 31, 2010 - 04:33 AM UTC

Quoted Text

just refreshing my lil mind here. i brush entire model in future, let dry, apply decals as needed, this is the question. does vinegar still help tighten the decal and prevent discoloring and wrinkles? i was taught that a few years back, and am just gettin back into the swing of things, now out of the work force so i have more time to play! and after it all dried i applied a new coat of future, again over the entire model. my e mail is billybob85625@yahoo.com if you wish to reply there appreciate all the good info here.

reb


Yes, you got it right.
SSGToms
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Posted: Sunday, October 31, 2010 - 04:36 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

can you link to what you use as "acrylic clear flat"? for the gloss part i use future, but i have no idea as to what use at this step (something by tamiya? vallejo?)

also, after the model is done should i spray it with something like vallejo's matt varnish?


Excellent flat clear acrylic is made by Pollyscale, MM Acryl, and Vallejo.
I make my own flat clear with 3 parts Future and 2 parts Tamiya X-21 flat base.
If you finish your model with a flat clear, it will darken the pigments and negate
their dusty look.



Do you use straight future as a gloss coat? And if you do you thin it at all? Thanks. First time weathering my models.


Hi Jeff, and welcome to Armorama. Yes, use Future straight from the bottle for the gloss coat. No thinning required.
Jedge3
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Joined: July 17, 2010
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Posted: Sunday, October 31, 2010 - 03:28 PM UTC
Thank you for the info.
Houlie
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Posted: Friday, November 05, 2010 - 02:02 PM UTC
I have been out of the hobby for a number of years and now sticking my toe back in the modeling waters. I am slowly trying to learn some of the new tricks and techniques. I was especially pleased to read this step by step thread. Keeping things clear and simple for noobs and returning enthusiasts is so very helpful.

I just joined Kit Maker/Armorama and have been impressed with the helpfulness of the community. Many thanks!
rebelsoldier
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Posted: Monday, November 08, 2010 - 11:09 AM UTC
having read all the great tips, i must be missing something. i know the weathering mixes have been quoted as like 80% thinner and 20% paint or higher. how do you figure the mix ratios% ? this is where i need help in mixing the weathering.

thanks in advance!
reb
SSGToms
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Posted: Monday, November 08, 2010 - 01:54 PM UTC
Reb,
I do all my oil work with Klean-Strip odorless mineral spirits and Winsor & Newton oils. I make up washes and other dilutions in medicine cups (30 ml) and toss them when I'm done with that step.
For a wash (80/20) I put 30 ml of mineral spirit in the cup. Then I slice off a split pea sized piece of oil paint with a toothpick and mix it in. It is better to have a thin wash and apply several washes to build up the contrast than have more oil paint in the wash and get crud lines and splotches of pigment drying on your model.
For a filter (90/10) use half that amount of oil paint in the 30 ml of thinner. A filter should barely tint the paint.
Doonie
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Joined: November 10, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 - 07:50 AM UTC
Becasue I don't quite understand, can anyone tell me why a final clear coat would not be applied in order to protect the finish?
firstcircle
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: November 19, 2008
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Posted: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 - 11:56 AM UTC

Quoted Text

why a final clear coat would not be applied in order to protect the finish?


Doonie, this is kind of mentioned above; if you have used any powder type effects like pigments or chalks, pastels etc. then adding a coat of varnish or Klear etc. will change the colours, darkening them down like they are permanently wet. To be honest, I'm not sure protecting the finish is that necessary, and the best way, as Matt Toms says, is to stick it to a base of any kind so it can be handled by the base, avoiding any need to ever touch it again.
rebelsoldier
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Posted: Thursday, November 11, 2010 - 04:22 PM UTC
thank you matt for the info, helps a bunch. i use acrylics mostly, so would the sme measurement apply to that mix?

reb
SSGToms
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Posted: Thursday, November 11, 2010 - 04:47 PM UTC
Reb,
I know it's 3 pages long, but have you had a chance to read through this whole thread? Assuming you have used acrylics up to this step, you now want to switch mediums (to oils) so that the washes, etc. do not make a mess of what you've done so far.
What I mean is, if you made up an acrylic wash at this point, you would be effectively brushing an 80% solution of acrylic solvent on an acrylic paint job - which is only a good idea if you are stripping the model to start over!
AussieReg
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
#007
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Victoria, Australia
Joined: June 09, 2009
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Posted: Thursday, November 11, 2010 - 05:59 PM UTC
Hi guys, armor noob here but don't sweat, no questions (yet) from me.

I just wanted to throw a HUGE thanks to Matthew for starting this thread, and to all of the others who have chimed in along the way. I am in progress with my first tank, a 1/35 Italeri M4 with Verlinden Calliope, and this thread has answered every question buzzing around in my brainbox so far.

I have done a couple of base coats of Olive Drab, and then a couple of random light sprays of OD cut with Yellow to show some fading. I use Tamiya Acrylics mostly. I will be shooting some Pledge One-Go (Aussie Future) tonight, then maybe some decals tomorrow, another coat of Future Sunday, then the real fun begins. I will go to the local art supply tomorrow and get a couple of W&N oils and some white spirits and during the week get amongst the weathering.

Hmmmm, ok I lied, one question. At what stage should I attach the Callipe to the turret? I'm thinking maybe once the 2 coats of Future are on.

Thanks again for such a great thread for newcomers like me.

Cheers, D
rebelsoldier
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Posted: Friday, November 12, 2010 - 07:06 PM UTC
tahnks again matt
i'll read thru the 3 pages. i didn't think an acrylic wash on future would hurt the model. thanks for saving me from disaster!
so a drop or rwo of oil in 30ml/cc of thinner and then wash as needed to get effect.
drop me an e mail at billybob85625@yahoo when you have the time as i have a few more questions and some pics to send.
thanks

reb
SSGToms
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Posted: Saturday, November 13, 2010 - 04:14 PM UTC
Hi Damian,
Glad you've gotten a lot out of this thread. That's it's purpose! I used to get a "when do I..." question 3 times a week, so I decided to post this where all could find it. I didn't expect it to expand so much though.
Personally, I would have attached the calliope in the construction stage, but that's just me.
rebelsoldier
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Posted: Monday, November 15, 2010 - 04:49 PM UTC
matt,
what rust colors do you recommend for weathering, enamels and acrylics?

reb
SSGToms
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Posted: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - 01:06 PM UTC
Reb,
Get the Lifecolor set CS 10 "Dust and Rust". It's just the best stuff on the market for this purpose. Check out any issue of MMiR and somebody's using it on their build; you can see photos of the results. It's easy to do, too.
Oh, Lifecolor are acrylics.
rebelsoldier
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Posted: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - 03:15 PM UTC
thaks for the tip matt

reb