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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Finishing and Weathering Sequence
SSGToms
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Posted: Thursday, January 16, 2020 - 08:59 AM UTC
Hey no problem! I forgot to list that you should start that list with a coat of clear flat to give everything something to stick to!
paullm47
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Posted: Monday, January 13, 2020 - 11:23 AM UTC
SSGToms, thanks for the reply. I found your weathering sequence on the very first post of this thread. My lazy ass should have looked there to begin with. My apologies, and thanks again.
SSGToms
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Posted: Monday, January 13, 2020 - 09:54 AM UTC
Oil panel washes (filters)
Oil pin washes
Oil drybrushing
Oil staining (dot method)
Chipping and scuffing
Pigments
Mount to base so nobody touches the pigments
paullm47
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Posted: Sunday, January 12, 2020 - 04:57 PM UTC
Old post, but useful information. Saw a youtube video today where the modeler primed the tank with black. Then sprayed white on the large panels, turret sides/top, hatches, etc. Then sprayed the base color trying to have the black primer show thru for shadows and i assume the same for the white trying to create highlights. Anyone else out there do this? I plan to paint a Dragon Artilleriewagen railcar very soon and i'm thinking about giving it a try. So after the base coat, gloss coat, decals and 2nd gloss coat are applied what are the preferred weathering steps? Thanks, and wish me luck.
GulfWarrior
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ARMORAMA
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Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 - 04:05 AM UTC
Nope...I shoot it straight!



flyers42
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Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 - 03:54 AM UTC
do you thin the future through the spray gun?
GulfWarrior
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ARMORAMA
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Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 - 01:38 AM UTC

Quoted Text

for the clear gloss and clear flat, do you use future floorwax for the gloss?and testors dullcote for the clear flat?

any opposition to that?just getting back into this




For this part you're going to get as many answers as there are products on the market. For my gloss coat I use Future. For my flat coat I use Lucky Varnish Ultra Flat from Ammo by Mig.





GulfWarrior
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ARMORAMA
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Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 - 01:24 AM UTC
Depends...if they are going to be used for contests then I keep them in a Rubbermaid tub for easy transport and for protection. Once they've been retired I just leave them on the shelf for display and hit them with a shot of canned air now and then.

Incidentally, that's one of the biggest gigs that I knocked entries for while I was judging at my club's contest last month. There were models on the tables that had layers of dust on them...that was NOT part of the weathering.






Armorsmith
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Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 - 01:19 AM UTC
Some use individual display cases either custom built or commercially available. Others have furniture like display cases with glass doors and shelves or something similar with solid doors and shelves or a combination thereof. Still others just let them sit out and dust them periodically(or not) with a soft brush or blow the dust off with the AB. Good luck.
flyers42
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Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 - 01:00 AM UTC
how do you guys store or protect your models/diorams long term from dust etc.?
Armorsmith
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Posted: Tuesday, October 01, 2019 - 12:01 PM UTC
It kind of depends. If you are using an oil wash when weathering then yes Future or any acrylic gloss can be used. If you are using acrylic washes then a solvent based gloss would be in order. Good luck
flyers42
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Posted: Tuesday, October 01, 2019 - 11:23 AM UTC
for the clear gloss and clear flat, do you use future floorwax for the gloss?and testors dullcote for the clear flat?

any opposition to that?just getting back into this
SSGToms
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Posted: Monday, May 06, 2019 - 05:06 PM UTC
Well, I just noticed that this post is ten years old and ten pages long! I'm glad it has helped so many people get the finishing process right. It's easy if you take it slow one step at a time.
mid868993
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Posted: Monday, April 22, 2019 - 09:35 AM UTC
These is very helpful for me, thanks
SSGToms
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Posted: Friday, December 14, 2018 - 11:18 PM UTC
Cees,

When using a chipping medium, it is best to get to work on it within 24 hours. If you leave it a few weeks you are in for a LOT of scrubbing and you may not get the effect you want.
Ceeskoda
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Posted: Monday, December 10, 2018 - 02:41 AM UTC
I am new to Armorama so don't know yet the correct way, but as chipping is in your list I do have a question. When using the Vallejo chipping medium, how long does it do the job? In other words: can I wait for several weeks before starting to chip the model and does the medium act as if sprayed on one or two days before?
Best,
Cees
SSGToms
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Posted: Wednesday, October 03, 2018 - 03:21 PM UTC
Yes it would because fuel and oil stains should look slightly wet. Fuel and oil stains can also be added over the pigments to make wet spots.
Wolf-Leader
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Posted: Thursday, August 30, 2018 - 12:44 AM UTC
Matt,
after you do your chipping detail,and your armor piece has been dull coated would that be a good time to add your oil and fuel stains?
Jody
Vicious
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Posted: Saturday, August 11, 2018 - 11:51 PM UTC

Quoted Text


When you say you use both, you are meaning you use both oil wash and ready made washes?

may I ask, if you had nothing (like me) and you were buying products for washes, what would you buy?



I use either oil or ready-made products, it depends on what I want to do.

For which products a little depends on what model you want to do and on what stage, a Panzer in North Africa will be different from a T-34 to Kursk, both for the color of the vehicle and for the terrain.

however the ones I use most often are:
Tracks Wash
Dark Brown
Rust Streaks
Light Rust
Streaking Grime
Engine oil
Fuel Stain
Dust Effect
some are AK and some Ammo by Mig are equivalent there is no difference between the 2 brands

For oils, the ones I use the most are:
Ivory Black
Titanium White
Burnt Umber
Raw Umber
Burnt Sienna
Raw Sienna
Vandyke Brown
Gold Ocher
Yellow Ocher

These are clearly those who like me, everyone has their preferences the best thing is to try and see with what you find yourself better
Jared867
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Posted: Saturday, August 11, 2018 - 12:15 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Short answer .... no and no

Vallejo are acrylics so a bit different but AK, MIG, Ammo, Tamiya etc ... they are very thinned oils/Enamel, it's just a personal choice,i use both.



When you say you use both, you are meaning you use both oil wash and ready made washes?

may I ask, if you had nothing (like me) and you were buying products for washes, what would you buy?
Vicious
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Posted: Saturday, August 11, 2018 - 11:47 AM UTC
Short answer .... no and no

Vallejo are acrylics so a bit different but AK, MIG, Ammo, Tamiya etc ... they are very thinned oils/Enamel, it's just a personal choice,i use both,i dont like acrylics washes they dry to fast and for me are not so easy to control like the Enamel/oils ones but is a personal preference.

The Future/Pladge/Klear is still used by many modellers, part of the problem is that over the years the formula and the name has changed several times and in many countries it is no longer available any more because it came out of the market, in the meantime some companies have tried to copy it, like AK or Humbrol, as here 'in Oz has not been found for years and buy it from overseas is often not as cheap as before so people have found other products to replace it ... also in this case it goes to personal preference and depending on where you live.
Jared867
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Posted: Saturday, August 11, 2018 - 10:02 AM UTC
I am rather new to weathering. I have never done any of it and I have been doing a lot of reading here and on Facebook groups such as the Weathered Models groups. I have a few questions I am hoping to find answers to before I begin purchasing supplies.

There is much mention of Tamiya Panel Wash, Vallejo wash and Ak interactive Washes. Is there a reason why these would be used instead of an oil wash?

Also, I have recently been told that Future is a very old technique that has been surpassed by newer products. Is this true or is Future still a widely practiced technique that has no issues with the modern paints?


Vicious
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Posted: Thursday, August 09, 2018 - 10:37 AM UTC
I do not use the "General Wash" any more, I prefer to go only with the "pin Wash" more precise,do not shift the base color and I do not have to waste my time cleaning up the mess on panels.

In some areas or pieces I still use the old "Dry Brushing" technique, but without overdoing it

I like to use Artist oils paints, they are very easy to control, they give a lot of time to play and in case of mistake it is easy to wash them away and start again, I use a bit of the technique that Mike Rinaldi calls "Rendering", his books are awesome IMHO.

if you look for these names on youtube there are several videos, the links posted by you are a bit 'old, those techniques are still current but have evolved a bit' and with them were born dozens of related products.

if you want/can spend some $$$, its books are a nice addition to your library

https://www.rinaldistudiopress.com/

also this one...

https://ak-interactive.com/product/faq-2-limited-edition-english/
Removed by original poster on 08/09/18 - 23:53:52 (GMT).
j76lr
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Posted: Thursday, October 12, 2017 - 09:24 PM UTC
thank you !!