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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Finishing and Weathering Sequence
SSGToms
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Posted: Monday, March 19, 2012 - 07:50 AM UTC
Model Master makes acryl and enamel. Which do you have?
ShaunDoe
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Posted: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 - 05:12 AM UTC
Hey, sorry for the delay. I have Model Master Enamel in rust for the tracks and burnt umber for later body washes. I guess then with the Tamiya Acrylics serving as the base paint I should be okay to use the Model Master enamels as my wash paints?
SSGToms
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Posted: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 - 11:48 AM UTC
Yes Shaun, that is what I needed to know. If your washes are Model Master enamels, then you are good to go. You can apply them over the Tamiya acrylic paints without a problem. You can skip the Future layer on the tracks, too. It should all come out the way you're planning it to!
ShaunDoe
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Posted: Thursday, March 22, 2012 - 05:16 PM UTC
Ah thank you for the tips. My next step is to do the rust wash so I hope that goes over well being my first attempt at it. Will have to do some extra research on it before I continue. Thanks again!
SSGToms
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Posted: Friday, March 23, 2012 - 04:45 AM UTC
You're welcome Shaun, anytime, and welcome to Armorama!
ShaunDoe
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Posted: Saturday, March 24, 2012 - 12:48 PM UTC
Well I applied my rust wash and things are looking pretty good, however, I believe I may have commited a mortal sin as far as painting is concerned. As I said, I am painting tracks for an Abrams so they have the rubber pads on the tracks. So I figured I would add the wash (enamel) and then paint the pads after so they looked tidy. But if I paint the pads in Acrylic I assume that will be effected by the minimal amount of enamel wash that made its way onto the pads? I read on some sites that you can paint acrylic over enamel as long as you let it sit for a week or more to cure properly. Any truth to this? Thanks in advance.
SSGToms
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Posted: Monday, March 26, 2012 - 11:42 AM UTC
Yes, you need to give enamels 4 days or so to "gas out" and fully cure. A week is very safe. Then you can paint acrylics over them for your track pads.
Nerazzurri
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Posted: Monday, June 18, 2012 - 09:23 AM UTC
Matt

On different threads I've seen you give your mix for a matt coat using Future and Tamiya flat base as both 2 tfb:3 f, and 1 tfb:3 f.

Which is it mate?

EDIT: it's for airbrushing, not brushing, in case that's relevant.
Nerazzurri
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Posted: Monday, June 18, 2012 - 10:27 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Matt

On different threads I've seen you give your mix for a matt coat using Future and Tamiya flat base as both 2 tfb:3 f, and 1 tfb:3 f.

Which is it mate?

EDIT: it's for airbrushing, not brushing, in case that's relevant.



Flaming edit facility not working properly

And might it need thinning a little for airbrushing?

If so what with - because I think Klear is water based but Tamiya acrylics are actually alcohol based??
SSGToms
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Posted: Monday, June 18, 2012 - 05:08 PM UTC
Gavin,

My mix for clear flat coat is 2 parts Tamiya X-21 Flat Base to 3 parts Future. You do not need to thin it for airbrushing. Apply it in multiple light coats.
Don't airbrush clear coats in high humidity.
Dragon164
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Posted: Sunday, July 08, 2012 - 01:46 PM UTC
Hey Matt,

Thanks for the great thread!
I just read through it all again and took all the pertinent points and made a word document. If you like I could send it to you so you could attach to the thread if you like.

Cheers Rob.
SSGToms
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Posted: Tuesday, July 10, 2012 - 04:18 PM UTC
Hi Rob,

That's cool! Please send me a copy. I'll see if Jim can put it on the Armorama server and then people could click the link if they want a copy. Or it could be a feature. Great idea!
There goes my book deal though!
robw_uk
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Posted: Sunday, August 26, 2012 - 07:07 AM UTC
Quick question... Matt varnish.... all mentioned so far are acrylic, what option do I have if I am using enamel paint? Would acrylic model master matt work or should I use enamel Matt varnish?
SSGToms
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Posted: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 - 02:49 PM UTC
Rob,
You can use an acrylic flat clear varnish over enamel paints. The point is that you want to finish with an acrylic coat if you want to weather with oils and mineral spirits. If you finished with an enamel product, then used mineral spirits and oils, the wash would eat away your enamel paint job since they are both solvent based materials.
robw_uk
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Posted: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 - 07:43 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Rob,
You can use an acrylic flat clear varnish over enamel paints. The point is that you want to finish with an acrylic coat if you want to weather with oils and mineral spirits. If you finished with an enamel product, then used mineral spirits and oils, the wash would eat away your enamel paint job since they are both solvent based materials.



cheers Matt, I actually finish with water based oils so guess not an acrylic varnish? but for the PzII I have done I did enamel paint, FUTURE coat, enamel weathering (via the sponge technique) then water-based oil..... if all i now want to do is the pastel dusting then acrylic should be ok?>
SSGToms
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Posted: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 01:50 PM UTC
You really dont need another clear coat if all you have left is the pigments. But, if you want to add one, you'll be okay with an acrylic clear coat.
Removed by original poster on 10/31/12 - 22:22:47 (GMT).
tenaglia
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Posted: Wednesday, October 31, 2012 - 10:30 AM UTC
Hello Matthew, I finished coloring a AAVP7a1 RAM WITH RS EAAK in NATO flag, set transparent color with glossy, shiny and transparent deal applied to fix it. Now I want to apply a cleaning oil color should I use? One more question: due to dust is fine dec tan Tamiya diluted with 90% and since AB? Thanks again for what you do, you are a very important aid for me as a beginner hello.
SSGToms
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Posted: Wednesday, November 21, 2012 - 02:52 PM UTC
Hi Sergio,

First, you want to make sure that your clear (transparent) coat is acrylic. A good oil wash color to use for 3 tone NATO is raw umber. And yes, Tamiya deck tan or buff diluted 80-90% and shot through the airbrush is excellent for simulating dust.
messynachos
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Posted: Sunday, December 02, 2012 - 07:19 AM UTC
it seemed after i sprayed my acrylic paint on then i sprayed the tamiya clear coat onthat when i went to try pin washing that the paint didnt want to flow around and down seams at all? i just went out and bought testors dullcoat will that work after the base coat? im so confused . what is future? how do i not make a mess again like in my leopard thread i started . sorry leopard lovers i really am. that is what happened to me . please help .
messynachos
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Posted: Sunday, December 02, 2012 - 07:33 AM UTC
if one of you would be willing to walk me through this from here i would forever be in debt to you. it is a base of neutral grey tamiya airbrushed on ... what next?
didgeboy
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Posted: Sunday, December 02, 2012 - 07:40 AM UTC
Terry;
If your grey is a primer then paint your camo on next. If grey is to be your colour then seal it with Future or Acrylic clear gloss. Add your decals and seal again with your clear gloss or "Future" (acrylic floor polish). Next step is overall oil washes. Then your "pin washes" if you are going to do them. Once you have finished all of your oil work, let it dry for a few days then seal it with acrylic clear flat. Once you have that on you are ready for drybrushing, and chipping and pigments. Any more questions post 'em here. Cheers.
messynachos
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Posted: Sunday, December 02, 2012 - 08:38 AM UTC
ok excellent i will go out tomorrow and get the future, ( i have a can of tamiya clear TS-13??? whatever that is, and also a bottle of testors dullcoat) i think the tamiya TS-13 i have is a clear flat. so all i need is the future. thanks for the help i feel relief now as i have a churchill crocodile on the bench along with a T-34/85 getting in line for the paint booth.
messynachos
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Posted: Monday, December 03, 2012 - 08:03 AM UTC
messynachos
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Posted: Monday, December 03, 2012 - 08:04 AM UTC
time for a blast of future now right?? then oils . i am not gonna do decals but maybe i will throw in some spare ones i have,