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Dragon Panzer IV E

the kit
For an in the box review of this kit by Pawel Krupowicz please look under reviews.

The initial reports of the kit were everything we all expected. People have been anticipating its release for a long time, and Tom Cockle over at Missing Lynx has been treating us all to previews and teasers since he was a consultant for Dragon in the design of the kit. Early reports from people who had received the kit were complimentary, and it looked like Tom and Dragon had outdone themselves and produced something of a masterpiece....as far as styrene injection kits went. Were they justified? Well, yes. With a few qualifiers.
The kit is supplied as a 3 in 1, but the differences between the 3 versions offered are minimal, mainly being the arrangement or absence of additional armour around the upper hull. The 3 versions offered are;

1. Pz. Kpfw. IV Ausf. E Early Version
2. Pz. Kpfw. IV Ausf. E Late Version
3. Pz. Kpfw. IV Ausf. E DAK

I decided to build the DAK version, mainly because then I could use the additional armour on the front upper hull.

There are lots of little ‘extras’ in this kit. I’ll mention all of them as I continue with the build, even though I found I didn’t use a lot of them, partially from choice, and partially, as we’ll see, for other reasons.

stage 1
This stage deals with the construction of the rear hull and running gear. First things first......two hulls are supplied, one with the additional armour and one without so make sure you use the correct one for the version you choose to depeict!
I have never, ever, seen bogey’s like these. They are quite simply, stunning! The detail is so sharply rendered, the parts breakdown so elegantly designed. The rear idlers each have a photo etched ‘face’. The road wheels each have a separate tyre, that has a very tiny manufacturers logo on one side. This means you have to be careful when placing the tyres on the road wheels that you have them facing the correct way! Bacxk to those bogeys.....they are beautifully designed. Although elegant in their design, they are complicated to build....I found myself needing a helping hand here, but once constructed, and if you have been sparing with the cement, they actually work the way the real ones would have done! And independently. For modellers that like to place their models in diorama settings the advantages to this are obvious.
Be careful here, as a small exploded view within this construction stage shows the option to use either A16 or A27. Tom Cockle has said that he asked Dragon to ‘grey out’ part A16 on the instructions since he believes that they were not used in this version. So use A27. This stage also shows fixing of the rear idler support, but it’s probably best to leave this off at this stage, since it can be rotated to take up any slack in the tracks later. You can also leave off the tyres until later, since that way they can be painted separately. Note also that there is a moulding seam around each tyre that was actually there on the original so need not be sanded off! It just depends on how worn you like your tyres to appear!
  • PIV_001
  • PIV_002
  • PIV_003
  • PIV_004
  • PIV_005
  • PIV_006
  • PIV_007
  • PIV_009
  • PIV_010
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About Vinnie Branigan (Teacher)